Hi
I got a Yamaha RX-V2400 remote that when I put in new batteries, works a while, then stops working, after a a day or so, when I check batteries they are near empty, The remote is not sending out signal, checked with phone camera and also the emitter light stays off, so no sticking of remotepads causing this, there is one cap I have not replaced yet, a 220 µF 6,3 volts, can this, when bad, cause this problem?
Cheers, Tojoko.
I got a Yamaha RX-V2400 remote that when I put in new batteries, works a while, then stops working, after a a day or so, when I check batteries they are near empty, The remote is not sending out signal, checked with phone camera and also the emitter light stays off, so no sticking of remotepads causing this, there is one cap I have not replaced yet, a 220 µF 6,3 volts, can this, when bad, cause this problem?
Cheers, Tojoko.
I replaced the 220 µF cap, with no result, can it be that the IC's eat the power?
Cheers, Tojoko.
Cheers, Tojoko.
Wash it with soapy water after dismantling, dry out, redo all the solder joints you can. Use an old soft tooth brush. Dish wash liquid soap.
Clean flux residues when done.
Check output with regular LED, I put one always on top... it tells me function and battery state.
Dry joints, and dirt across contacts are at fault.
Chinese capacitors? Change without bothering to check. Sometimes faulty crystal.
And if you can, check idle power drain with meter on series with cells.
Also, put good quality cells, some cheap ones are useless anyway.
Clean flux residues when done.
Check output with regular LED, I put one always on top... it tells me function and battery state.
Dry joints, and dirt across contacts are at fault.
Chinese capacitors? Change without bothering to check. Sometimes faulty crystal.
And if you can, check idle power drain with meter on series with cells.
Also, put good quality cells, some cheap ones are useless anyway.
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Measure the current consumption. Ordinary remotes should be pretty much zero (as in close to zero even on a uA range).
Like this for washing the board. Also do the same for any rubberised keypad.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/washing-an-amplifier-board.301813/post-4942703
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/washing-an-amplifier-board.301813/post-4942703
Maybe the electrolytic is reversely polarized? Maybe the old one yet was, and you've soldered the new one in the same wrong position?
Best regards!
Best regards!
A nasty habit here is to leave the remote control of the car port in the pants and then throw the pants in the washing machine. Needless to say the remote is not fond of water and washing powder.
It eats batteries when mistreated like that. So it is then soaked in 99% isopropyl alcohol and brushed carefully and thoroughly dried with some pressurized air. It stopped eating batteries, the cause was whisker like connections of oxide between the IC pins. Then it was coated with polyurethane spray. No more eating batteries and it now has survived several washes.
It eats batteries when mistreated like that. So it is then soaked in 99% isopropyl alcohol and brushed carefully and thoroughly dried with some pressurized air. It stopped eating batteries, the cause was whisker like connections of oxide between the IC pins. Then it was coated with polyurethane spray. No more eating batteries and it now has survived several washes.
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Before fitting it back, redo the battery soldered connections, and also look closely for corroded tracks, those can leak current next to each other.
We get conductive ink and pads to revive remote controls whose keypads have gone bad.
We get conductive ink and pads to revive remote controls whose keypads have gone bad.
Tried all the mentioned things, nothing helped, I will try to replace resonator and oscillator, when I touched the resonator it worked for a second, so i think there lies the problem....
This remote was faulty from when you got it, or it got faulty later?
Any physical damage like falling on the floor?
The IC soldering can be tried again, dry joints in lead free solder are common.
Measure resistance between battery and IC tracks.
Crystals are a problem, sometimes the same one is hard to get, the metal ones are better.
Please check the output diode for resistance also.
Also check current drain without keypad in place.
Before this, check for residues on the keypad tracks. Use a magnifying glass and a bright light.
Had this happen to me on a calculator, found copper residues on the sliding switch tracks on the PCB. Formed draining resistors...
Cleaning them off and using the AC button as on switch (it was auto off) restored normal functioning to the Casio fx-180P in about 1985. Last heard as working good in 1995.
Any physical damage like falling on the floor?
The IC soldering can be tried again, dry joints in lead free solder are common.
Measure resistance between battery and IC tracks.
Crystals are a problem, sometimes the same one is hard to get, the metal ones are better.
Please check the output diode for resistance also.
Also check current drain without keypad in place.
Before this, check for residues on the keypad tracks. Use a magnifying glass and a bright light.
Had this happen to me on a calculator, found copper residues on the sliding switch tracks on the PCB. Formed draining resistors...
Cleaning them off and using the AC button as on switch (it was auto off) restored normal functioning to the Casio fx-180P in about 1985. Last heard as working good in 1995.
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🙄
Then try above, or try to find a substitute.
Check every track, electrically and visually for a fine hair line crack.
Might show up in ohms range.
Also check resistors for actual vs. marked values.
Then try above, or try to find a substitute.
Check every track, electrically and visually for a fine hair line crack.
Might show up in ohms range.
Also check resistors for actual vs. marked values.
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and thanks for the update.