Hi:
I'm getting tired of replacing the speaker terminals (16-24 AWG) in my Klipsch Promedia 2.1 speaker system. The original Klipsch terminals lasted about 12 years, but this last set I installed (found on Amazon), only lasted 3 years.
Where can I find speaker terminals for that wire gauge that will last and not break so soon. These are 4 terminal (two speaker) models.
I'm getting tired of replacing the speaker terminals (16-24 AWG) in my Klipsch Promedia 2.1 speaker system. The original Klipsch terminals lasted about 12 years, but this last set I installed (found on Amazon), only lasted 3 years.
Where can I find speaker terminals for that wire gauge that will last and not break so soon. These are 4 terminal (two speaker) models.
Avoid those spring connectors, install five-way binding posts, and also use banana plugs instead of bare wires, that will last a life time!
I'm sure you're right. But at least one of those is a custom shape, which would mean a bunch of work cutting/trimming the existing hole for the terminals. I'm too busy with other things to do that right now. I'm hoping for something that will fit without any modding work.
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My unit is the same as this one:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Klipsc...+VERSION)+Speaker+Terminal+Replacement/136313
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Klipsc...+VERSION)+Speaker+Terminal+Replacement/136313
If I could find binding posts with (almost) the exact same dimensions, I'd install them. Looks like the part that extrudes past the hole in the case is
48.2mm x 13.3mm.
48.2mm x 13.3mm.
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The hole behind the terminals might even be a long rectangle, rather than four small holes.
You could make a mounting plate to go over the existing hole, with the proper holes for binding posts.
Or design it, and order from sendcutsend.com or frontpanelexpress.com.
You could make a mounting plate to go over the existing hole, with the proper holes for binding posts.
Or design it, and order from sendcutsend.com or frontpanelexpress.com.
It is long/rectangular. How do I go about finding binding posts with mounting plate or whatever that fit the opening in the subwoofer? Don't the spec sheets usually specify the width of the panel included. I don't know what I'm doing so this may be wrong terminology. I meant, the widest/longest dimensions, rather than the part that extrudes through the sub opening. Obviously the former is more important.
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Chrisng: Where did you get that screenshot of that product that included the mounting plate?
That would really be helpful.
That would really be helpful.
These are some reference links:
https://www.parts-express.com/4-Way-Binding-Post-in-One-Horizontal-Mount-for-Speaker-Amplifier
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/R-Connector-Brass-Binding-Post
https://www.ebay.com/itm/375530175096
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133778683293
https://www.ebay.com/itm/166223426993
https://www.ebay.com/itm/135389674441
Some of these are just standard binding posts mounted on custom mounting plates and sell for very high prices!
https://www.parts-express.com/4-Way-Binding-Post-in-One-Horizontal-Mount-for-Speaker-Amplifier
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/R-Connector-Brass-Binding-Post
https://www.ebay.com/itm/375530175096
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133778683293
https://www.ebay.com/itm/166223426993
https://www.ebay.com/itm/135389674441
Some of these are just standard binding posts mounted on custom mounting plates and sell for very high prices!
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My suggestion is use a piece of 1/8" thick ABS plastic, very easy to cut and drill.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B795T1DS/
Tufnol was designed for this sort of use and is a lot more robust than ABS. Even bare FR4 would serve.
Many have made a pcb that serves as a chassis back panel, with the holes and silk screen lettering as a free bonus.
You can do the same thing for a mounting plate.
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects?search[query]=Passive+Attenuator+for+Eurorack&button=&search[filters][pcb_layers][two_layer]=1&search[filters][pcb_layers][four_layer]=1&search[filters][pcb_layers][six_layer]=1&records_date_sort=desc&records_per_page=20
You can do the same thing for a mounting plate.
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects?search[query]=Passive+Attenuator+for+Eurorack&button=&search[filters][pcb_layers][two_layer]=1&search[filters][pcb_layers][four_layer]=1&search[filters][pcb_layers][six_layer]=1&records_date_sort=desc&records_per_page=20
The ABS in the posted link is 1/8" thick. I'd need to glue together at least 3, maybe 4 layers to make it thick enough not to resonate like h*ll.
I'm not clear on how getting a custom-made PCB is going to help me mount speaker terminals.
Unfortunately, I also just realized that in order to make or expand any cutout, it would be in the plate amp panel, which is made of steel.
I'm starting to wonder if it's even worth the trouble to repair this.
I'm not clear on how getting a custom-made PCB is going to help me mount speaker terminals.
Unfortunately, I also just realized that in order to make or expand any cutout, it would be in the plate amp panel, which is made of steel.
I'm starting to wonder if it's even worth the trouble to repair this.
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Not a custom made PCB, a piece of bare FR4... you know, fibreglass reinforced board, its strong stuff compared to ABS. Gets through hacksaw blades fast though. Tufnol really is a contender, it used to be heavily used for this kind of application, and its a lot kinder on saw blades.
Right, but did you see that I'd have to cut through the metal wall of the plate amp? And frankly, I have health problems which, at the moment, make any of this dificult.
When only 2 dimensions are stated for push terminals, is that usually for the panel dimensions, or the part that extrudes through the cabinet?
Without clues like "total length", "hole diameter" or a dimensional drawing, dimensions could be anything, I wouldn't assume anything.