Thanks for the thoughts! Yes I've seen it said frequently that build quality declined over that period, and that also is what I've witnessed. Although there might have been some enhancements in performance, there doesn't appear to have been a huge amount of innovation by most manufacturers. I'm hoping that my 90s rotel will be a reasonable choice. There were also some 80s ones for similar prices, but buld only looked a tiny bit better and they used more older style components (like metal T03 transistors and so on) that will potentially become harder to substitute.From my own experience and observations best reliability in most cases you will get with refurbished amp devices older than 40 years, because such of later manufacturing date savings were made more and more (cheap elcaps without screw terminals e. g.).
From the 90s it was quite pronounced, from the 2000s it was extremely pronounced - both in terms of component quality and circuit design quality.
Compare the NAD+Rotel devices from 80s, 90s, 2000s and 2010s, also A+R Cambridge (later TAG-McLarren now Audiolab), Creek, Cambridge Audio, Naim Audio and many more.
Doing the attenuation at source instead at the power amp input isn't a good idea in general - independent of amplifier's age.
A wide range of integrated active crossover networks in active loudspeakers fight with this issue - SNR in low level area isn't good, because the inherent noise of active crossover network (OP-Amp) stages wasn't attenuate with reducing the level at volume control on used preamp. Same situation is to observe in all integrated amplifiers, as long as attenuator resp. volume control potentiometer is located at input of line preamp stage instead at power amp input.
Yes attenuation at source is a compromise that most power amps and many active systems make. That is why my intention is to split attenuation duties between amp and source, to at least help with that. In theory my multi way dac should also be very low noise, much less than previous crossovers that I've used. In practice it'll probably depend on how well it rejects the PC noise and how I manage to reduce ground loops and other sources of noise.
Thanks,
Kev
Well unfortunately there has been a delivery problem with my purchase (it has gone astray), I hope it can be found. But either way, looking into it has been quite helpful.
In particular I finally realised what appeals to me about the older amps (and some brands more than others) is the quality of internal components and construction. Also the elegant simplicity of some more than others - especially power amps. I'm less keen on ageing capacitors and obsolete parts, though; owning an old or classic amp isn't the main reason for me.
So whether this arrives or not, I've also decided to have another go at making DIY amps; which I can build to my preferences. That'll be a while in the future, but no doubt when the time comes I shall post the build (and likely many more questions!).
In particular I finally realised what appeals to me about the older amps (and some brands more than others) is the quality of internal components and construction. Also the elegant simplicity of some more than others - especially power amps. I'm less keen on ageing capacitors and obsolete parts, though; owning an old or classic amp isn't the main reason for me.
So whether this arrives or not, I've also decided to have another go at making DIY amps; which I can build to my preferences. That'll be a while in the future, but no doubt when the time comes I shall post the build (and likely many more questions!).
Old amps come with known build quality, DIY is sometimes like this and sometimes like that. Have patience and faith, most probably your purchase will arrive 😉
You could split the difference between vintage and DIY with a Hafler DH220C. 😎
Hopefully your Rotel will arrive and work well. If it doesn’t suit, you could repurpose the chassis and install a DIY design from this site.
Hopefully your Rotel will arrive and work well. If it doesn’t suit, you could repurpose the chassis and install a DIY design from this site.
Ha, yes the build quality would be my fault if it wasn't good enough. But at least it would be my decision, not false expectations based on a smart case with poor innards. But i do hope the Rotel arrives, as I really like the look of those innards. There are a couple of other Rotel models which were slightly better, but the one I bought seemed quite decent at a reasonable price.
I'd not seen the Hafler project before, so thanks for that. I have sometimes wondered about seriously upgrading existing amps (rather than making minor improvements/replacements), but often they are fairly expensive (even if broken) and existing parts impose restrictions. It might be better to do as mentioned and just re-use the chassis.
Though if the Rotel arrives I'll probably not want to destroy it for the sake of a case. So will clean and maybe renovate it a little and then use it (even if I do build something, it will take a while). Likely I'll want to keep it anyway, I've a couple of old integrated marantz amps that I'd get rid of first; they aren't nearly as appealing and I no longer need all the input switches, pre-amp and other gubbins.
I'd not seen the Hafler project before, so thanks for that. I have sometimes wondered about seriously upgrading existing amps (rather than making minor improvements/replacements), but often they are fairly expensive (even if broken) and existing parts impose restrictions. It might be better to do as mentioned and just re-use the chassis.
Though if the Rotel arrives I'll probably not want to destroy it for the sake of a case. So will clean and maybe renovate it a little and then use it (even if I do build something, it will take a while). Likely I'll want to keep it anyway, I've a couple of old integrated marantz amps that I'd get rid of first; they aren't nearly as appealing and I no longer need all the input switches, pre-amp and other gubbins.
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The problem with old stuff is knowing its history.
Has it been used once or used a million times and worn out ?
Quite often people only sell stuff on after it has failed and been fixed.
Having to replace pots, jack sockets, electrolytic's etc etc is costly and a pain.
Has it been used once or used a million times and worn out ?
Quite often people only sell stuff on after it has failed and been fixed.
Having to replace pots, jack sockets, electrolytic's etc etc is costly and a pain.
Yes, I've had a few second hand components over the years and quite agree. In fact sometimes the problems can even come from lack of use, especially if stored in damp or dirty places. Some have also been cleaned up or renovated for sale by people who have no clue at all.
Though this one looked quite good, so it'll be sad if lost. It is also a dedicated power amp, which should avoid many problems by simply not having lots of switches, pots and mechanical controls. Oh well, it'll likely come to light at some point.
Though this one looked quite good, so it'll be sad if lost. It is also a dedicated power amp, which should avoid many problems by simply not having lots of switches, pots and mechanical controls. Oh well, it'll likely come to light at some point.
Not like having to replace an entire appliance every 3 years. The rubber switches are designed to fail if the e-caps don't get you. You can still buy industrial grade electrolytics, jack sockets, pots. Then the amp might last 20 more years. I've found no source of button rubber on remotes. Nor a way to get into the glued case. The RCA universal remote I bought won't do anything for a farnell, sylvania, or Apex DTV converters, off brand DVD players and recorders.Having to replace pots, jack sockets, electrolytic's etc etc is costly and a pain.
The only problem with the 90's Peavey equipment I repaired/restored before 8/2020 was that the fence valued them so highly that the burglar carried them all off. CS800s amp, PV-4C amp, Unity12 mixer, PV8 mixer, PV8-USB mixer, MMA-875t mixer amp, MMA-8150 mixer amp. .
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