Relay contact protection

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it's back emf.
When you turn off a load, the inductive part of the load tries to maintain the current flow and generates a back emf in an opposite direction to the ON voltage.
It's the strength of that back emf that "jumps" the gap of the opening contacts.
look at any switch at turn off in the dark and you will see the spark !
A light switch is especially good at this.
Closing a switch rarely creates a big spark and rarely damages the switch contacts. It's the opening that is the damaging problem.

The snubber is a method of reducing the back emf. Make the back emf small enough and the spark does not "jump" the gap.
Making the back emf small enough is achieved by establishing a "path" for the back emf current to flow. If the current is allowed to flow there is no back emf, because the current has not been stopped (instantly).

This is why a relay coil gets a back emf diode.
Is there a diagram for all of this to help visualize what you're describing? 😕
 
Switch on can be more onerous for the contact due to bounce. Especially for loads with an in-rush characteristic, such as an amplifier. I don't think a water heater load would have the same high start current as a valve heater.

So the contact current could be quite high, due to in-rush, at the time the contact recoils and tries to break the circuit. I couldn't find any great examples quickly, and the timing would depend on the relay or contactor, but I think a bounce would not be longer than a few ms, so multiple contact times could occur during an ac half waveform.

Even with special contact metallurgy, it is not uncommon for the molten splotches on the contact surface to finally cause a welded closed contact, or a high resistance contact surface.

Allowing an alternate current path around the contact during bounce can alleviate the surface damage - such as a snubber, or a slow start path.

I guess many people would shy away from zero crossing solid state switching, as such a switch also needs to be rated for the in-rush so can end up with a high current rating itself - but that is a somewhat more expensive option.
 
Hi,
You ca use it in parallel with the transformer if you want. You must size it depending of the working voltage. Normally for a 120 volt AC I used a GMOV with a rating of 150 volts AC. Also used them in every amplifier I built for lightning protection. Belief me it works. You must use a fuse before the GMOV so when it activated it blow the fuses.
 
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