Hello, as the title suggests the resistor has burnt out and I cant tell the value as the bands now all appear brown! I'd guess its a 2W metal film resistor perhaps 12R but not sure. anybody know? thanks.
Hi Kimmo,
It should be a 6.8Kohm 2.5w resistor. Have a look at the motor data sheet. It may be a good excuse to get the Rega upgrade motor and electronics.
http://www.mclennan.co.uk/datasheets/european/synchronousdata/990411131813.pdf
Hope this helps.
kffern
It should be a 6.8Kohm 2.5w resistor. Have a look at the motor data sheet. It may be a good excuse to get the Rega upgrade motor and electronics.
http://www.mclennan.co.uk/datasheets/european/synchronousdata/990411131813.pdf
Hope this helps.
kffern
I assume you're in UK. Its 12k ohm (2-3watt) for 220V-240V Rega. Replace the 0.22uF capacitor if found defective.
Thanks guys much appreciated. I guess it forms a potential divider with the motor windings to reduce our 240 V down to 110V. cheers
A few weeks ago I managed to see a part of the rega site I can now not get in to. It had all the service info. Rega actually recommends replacing the resistor with a second 0.22 mfd cap now. This avoids the "heat generating" that the resistor does and is according to Rega more reliable.
Use at least 250V AC rated cap if you do go this route.
Use at least 250V AC rated cap if you do go this route.
Yep!. Many found out the site, (So did REGA!), many accessed it and now it's gone.
The info pages does not contain actual motor circuit diagrams. Rega P3-2000 and upgrade motor sets have an improved circuitry with extra resistors. I've traced and documented the circuit privately for my future reference, when I took steps to improve things a bit underneath. I added a noise suppressor cap across the switch wires to suppress an irritating pop whenever flicking the switch.
The info pages does not contain actual motor circuit diagrams. Rega P3-2000 and upgrade motor sets have an improved circuitry with extra resistors. I've traced and documented the circuit privately for my future reference, when I took steps to improve things a bit underneath. I added a noise suppressor cap across the switch wires to suppress an irritating pop whenever flicking the switch.
coolmaster said:
Yup, I thought it was a mistake, hence I immediately went through each fault tree and saved all the pages...
You have my attention though on the new motor cct....
I suspect/guess they may have reduced overall voltage and perhaps reduced voltage over the second phase shifted motor winding even further?
I don't know if the new circuitry would work on older Premotec or Airpax motors. I'm not at liberty to experiment or wanna hack up my P3 just for experiment.
No need to hack up anything. I know of the new 24V motor but that is the P3-24 AFAIK the 110 V motors are much the same. Got several kicking around so no hacking on your part needed. Can check it out easy enough on an old motor.
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