After having upgraded my late 80's planar 3 with exact pickup and replaced the horrible felt mat with a cork/rubber mat I have enjoyed my deck more than ever before. That is until the 12K resistor in the motor circuit burned out.
It is simple enough replacing the resistor, but searching the net indicates that it should be replaced by a capacitor. Another reference indicated that there was a circuit with a pot, making it possible to fine tune the voltage for the 90 degree phase winding to minimize vibrations.
Yet other advocates diching the entire AC motor and suspended motor in favor of the 24 volt DC-upgrade motor.
My AC mains is 240V /50Hz
so do you advice that I
1 - Simply replace the resistor
2 - Change the circuit to a "dual capacitor" design
3 - Search the internet for an "improved design" for electronic controller
4 - Take it as an omen and grab the opportunity to 24V DC motor
The two first options should be cheap and simple, option 3 and 4 would involve more investments.
It is simple enough replacing the resistor, but searching the net indicates that it should be replaced by a capacitor. Another reference indicated that there was a circuit with a pot, making it possible to fine tune the voltage for the 90 degree phase winding to minimize vibrations.
Yet other advocates diching the entire AC motor and suspended motor in favor of the 24 volt DC-upgrade motor.
My AC mains is 240V /50Hz
so do you advice that I
1 - Simply replace the resistor
2 - Change the circuit to a "dual capacitor" design
3 - Search the internet for an "improved design" for electronic controller
4 - Take it as an omen and grab the opportunity to 24V DC motor
The two first options should be cheap and simple, option 3 and 4 would involve more investments.
Your's is old enough to be suspended? Replace the resistor to get it operative and order the DC motor.
I have good things about the new 24v motor and the improved result, so might be worth buying the bullet.
Had that not been an option I would be going with 1.
Had that not been an option I would be going with 1.
Thanks to both of you.
Digning thru some old Junk PCBs today, I found the required 12K / 4W resistor!
Indeed, my player has suspended motor and the plint seem to be a plywood / chipboard sandwich. Arm seem to have the Tungsten-Weight.
Player spinning nicely again. Can't detect any rumble, but apparently the wow and flutter spec was not the best for the rubber band suspended motor.
Still have not decided if I should go for a 24V upgrade or a new RIAA.
Anyone know how the Parasound P5 is compared to external mid-grade RIAA like e.g. Schiit Mani or the Rega Phono?
My pickup is a Rega Exact
Digning thru some old Junk PCBs today, I found the required 12K / 4W resistor!
Indeed, my player has suspended motor and the plint seem to be a plywood / chipboard sandwich. Arm seem to have the Tungsten-Weight.
Player spinning nicely again. Can't detect any rumble, but apparently the wow and flutter spec was not the best for the rubber band suspended motor.
Still have not decided if I should go for a 24V upgrade or a new RIAA.
Anyone know how the Parasound P5 is compared to external mid-grade RIAA like e.g. Schiit Mani or the Rega Phono?
My pickup is a Rega Exact
In my experience the Schiit Mani is significantly better than the Rega. I have no experience with the Parasound, but would wholeheartedly recommend the Schiit if you are looking to change your RIAA
If your plan is to keep the turntable, the 24V is a worthwhile improvement, with no downside and much benefit.
Have you tried other cartridges? I think you will get the most change in the sound by using a different cartridge.
If your plan is to keep the turntable, the 24V is a worthwhile improvement, with no downside and much benefit.
Have you tried other cartridges? I think you will get the most change in the sound by using a different cartridge.
So, I will most likely go with a 24 volt motor upgrade then. RIAA will be an upgrade for later. Out of curiosity, with a username like 6L6, did you ever try a valve RIAA?
I am contemplating a DIY build: The Valve Wizard or the similar design from the Morgan Jones Valve Amp book.
I don't want to turn your post into a valve vs SS argument. Have you considered the Pass Pearl as an RIAA pre-amp. The Pearl 1 is lower gain and suits MM. The Pearl 2 has more gain for MC. (I hope I've got those the right way around).
I've got a Linn LP12 with an Ittok 2 arm and Linn ARKIV MC cartridge, with the Pearl 2 I've not heard anything better.
If you have a pure valve set-up then I can appreciate that you might prefer a valve pre-amp.
I've got a Linn LP12 with an Ittok 2 arm and Linn ARKIV MC cartridge, with the Pearl 2 I've not heard anything better.
If you have a pure valve set-up then I can appreciate that you might prefer a valve pre-amp.
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