The Parts Express phenolic tweeter is different than the original CTS 2T8 which is still available on eBay. The 2T8 is a good performer with a reasonably well damped resonance while the PE replacement has a higher and poorly damped resonance around 2 k, may affect the overall sound of the system. I’d go with the original 2T8 tweeter (look for CTS phenolic ring tweeter on eBay).
Those CTS woofers are among the last treated fabric surrounds used in lower priced boxes, before foam took over the world, and are just fine. Yes the crossover can be improved, and the tweeter, but box bracing and internal damping are where to start. And then, and then, and then...
Options/recommendations for leftover imperial parts
I have parts left over from a imperial 5g speaker set
CTS tweeter, 8” woofer, and the cross overs
I know it isn’t high end stuff but though this would at least be a fair start to trying to build my first DIY speaker cabinet before moving onto building cabinets with better drivers and cross overs. The price is right for the drivers. Free
The original ported cabinet measures
23H x 12W x 9.5D. Fairly big cabinet for the driver size
I don’t have the port tube size, length
So I originally thought to recreate the imperial 5g cabinets (only drawback is the lack of port tube dimensions)
BUT
With more reading and realizing there are so many more possibilities on cabinet design
Was wondering if anyone else with more experience had any different recommendations
Sealed cabinets?
Aperiodic
Floor standing
I have no idea how to figure out what size or volume would be optimal. I am still learning and reading and asking questions.
I was kind of thinking building a A25 cabinet clone, fitting the drivers and adjusting the port stuffing. If this didn’t work then just get the appropriate 10” driver and seas tweeter and recreate an A25 or a WD25A or a WD25T clone
Thank you for your time
I have parts left over from a imperial 5g speaker set
CTS tweeter, 8” woofer, and the cross overs
I know it isn’t high end stuff but though this would at least be a fair start to trying to build my first DIY speaker cabinet before moving onto building cabinets with better drivers and cross overs. The price is right for the drivers. Free
The original ported cabinet measures
23H x 12W x 9.5D. Fairly big cabinet for the driver size
I don’t have the port tube size, length
So I originally thought to recreate the imperial 5g cabinets (only drawback is the lack of port tube dimensions)
BUT
With more reading and realizing there are so many more possibilities on cabinet design
Was wondering if anyone else with more experience had any different recommendations
Sealed cabinets?
Aperiodic
Floor standing
I have no idea how to figure out what size or volume would be optimal. I am still learning and reading and asking questions.
I was kind of thinking building a A25 cabinet clone, fitting the drivers and adjusting the port stuffing. If this didn’t work then just get the appropriate 10” driver and seas tweeter and recreate an A25 or a WD25A or a WD25T clone
Thank you for your time
You need the Thiele-Small parameters of the woofer before you decide what kind of cabinet is suitable
Hi,
Some questions for Marantz 5 and 6.
I noticed the tweeter look the same, but in model 6 the dome is bagger.
If you look at the crossovers, in model 6 there are 2 coils. (12dB?) In both the crossover frequentie is 3000Hz.
Is somebody here to say something more about these differances.
Lib
Some questions for Marantz 5 and 6.
I noticed the tweeter look the same, but in model 6 the dome is bagger.
If you look at the crossovers, in model 6 there are 2 coils. (12dB?) In both the crossover frequentie is 3000Hz.
Is somebody here to say something more about these differances.
Lib
Hi I have 2 Marantz Imprial 6 wit 2 different crossover board. Serial nr see diagram.
The older one is like above recomandations.
Which one is beter?