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Reference DAC Module - Discrete R-2R Sign Magnitude 24 bit 384 KHz

Normal operation for the Amenero is to get it’s power from the Host computer through USB. There is a hack to provide dedicated power to the Amenero. Not sure of the particulars, but it is a hack of the board. You should be able to do a search to get that info.



i see, i did not know that. all this time since i bought the reflektor d months ago i thouht that i is to power the amanero. anyway. i am not interested in modding ir hacking right now. so im just gonna use the reflektor -d to power the soekris 3.3 volt and later on maybe use ifi iusb between tbe compurer and the amanero. if i knew this i would not have paid 100 bucks for the amanero. i thogt it it woukd for sure get rid of the noisy usb power. butvwhatever at this point im so exhaustedvthat i dont care anymore.
 
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Hi i want to Bay New xmos, but please Tell me that to Bay isolated od not isolated Version, i want to Bay Fifo reclocer to, and all Power by lifepp4 bateries.


I'm far from being a master in english, but you need to seriously revise your writing.


If you want an xmos with the soekris dac, i guess the diyinhk one, you don't need a fifo as it's included in the soekris, same for the isolator so you need a non-isolated version.
 
Sorry for bad English. I have read that some People puting potato ship bedween xmos and soekris with Good results. This is kind of reclocer lika Fifo. So You are sure that i dont need Fifo reclocer?very thanks


Don't feed the troll.


which potentiameter is appropriate to use for volume control on soekris? im not really sure what is needs to be. i want it to work well and be chasis mount not pcb mount.

ALPS Potentiometers | Mouser


You need to do some research on your own, this info is not hard to get :

Soekris dam 1021 R-2R DAC ILLUSTRATED GUIDE | H i F i D U I N O
 
Don't feed the troll.





You need to do some research on your own, this info is not hard to get :

Soekris dam 1021 R-2R DAC ILLUSTRATED GUIDE | H i F i D U I N O

he is not a troll. the potato chip mod is a valid one that is talked about in the same blog that you just linked genius. this information is not hard to get, you need to do some research.

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id appreciate some help with finding the potentiometer that i can use from mouser. i cant decided which one is right. anyone but this guy above.
 
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id appreciate some help with finding the potentiometer that i can use from mouser. i cant decided which one is right. anyone but this guy above.[/QUOTE]


Hi, can't help you for the Mauser catalogue, however you might be interested on searching on eBay for:"AC/DC 9V Infrared Remote Control Volume Controller Board ALPS Pre Potentiometer"
That little silly inexpensive remote works very well with by board and it is powered by a 7V transformer. You can relax in your sofa and fiddle with the volume at will...
 
So it seems our message were remove by modo and that i get a strike, don't even know why as i don't insult anybody... As the modo don't allow us to respond. I will not let this be, i always have a big mouth, so i will answer here, if you are not happy with what i will say, just ban me, my valor is not the one on this forum.



he is not a troll. the potato chip mod is a valid one that is talked about in the same blog that you just linked genius. this information is not hard to get, you need to do some research.

////

id appreciate some help with finding the potentiometer that i can use from mouser. i cant decided which one is right. anyone but this guy above.


First if my messages get delete, why not this one, he is more insulting than my own post. I took the time to answer this guy and give him information, all i get is cynicism and then insult.



So long story short : i am the first one to be sometimes be disappoint by the elitism of diyaudio. It's a forum for and by passionate, and you are often judge hardly here if you are not an accomplish electronics that can understand all the technical stuff. Their is no real "newbie corner" or a real section that is dedicated to the learning of diy. Problem is, diy is cheap compare to often ridiculously expensive product, so it attract people like me, with no formation in electronic, to build their own quality stuff for cheap (or i dare say their real price, not hyped product for rich). So this forum, that was build for hard passionate, have grow and is now the place for all diyer, newbie or advanced.

So what we get with that is long forum topic that are mixed between advance question and newbies that ask question answered a thousand times.


For example in this topic soren just release a new dac along with a new firmware with new filters. It's sure we will speak of that, or eventually of relevant question like technical problem, but how to connect an I2S line or if we need an isolated or non-isolated xmos with the dam... Again these question have been answer a thousand time, that's why in the front page of this topic soren give a list of document, including the blog i quote that include everything a beginner need...


Moderator say "Responses to posts you find personally annoying are optional". So iguess the correct answer to a newbie is to ignore him ? Again it's an elitist policy, ignore a newbie until he just get bored and leave by itself disgusted of everyone just ignoring him.



Also i don't insult in my post, and other people that respond to this "Dadbeh" do exactly what i say : give pieces of info but not all of it, and say "you need to do your own research". This is a polite and gentle way of saying that google is your friend and that these information are just easy to find so it's pointless and annoying for everyone to post them here. If "Dadbeh" have problem connecting i2s or ask advice on which 10k pot to buy, why modo do not invite him to create a new topic, i'm sure people here with more patience than me would answer.
 
id appreciate some help with finding the potentiometer that i can use from mouser. i cant decided which one is right. anyone but this guy above.

Like the DAM's manual says, any 10K linear potentiometer will do. Its quality is not critical - it's not anywhere near the audio path. But it can not be extremely cheap either, since for example contact bounce would cause the volume to fluctuate wildly.

Any one of these will do just fine: ALPS Potentiometers 1 Gang 10 kOhms Linear Panel Mount Potentiometers | Mouser Greece
 
- and now DIMDIM is around - his very nice arduino project works very well, not just for changing channel and filter, but also for volume with a remote as well.

Dimdim's Blog | DIY Audio, Arduino, Computers, Music

The only thing I have not got right yet is that the volume always being full, but in reality that is not a real problem.

If by “...the volume always being full....” you mean the volume on the DAM power-up is 0db until the Arduino boots and reduces it you can preset the DAM volume via uManager so the DAM powers up at a reduced volume level.

As the DAM boots faster than the Arduino, if you boot the DAM/Arduino with a live source connected (meaning the source is playing), the auto-input feature on the DAM locks onto the live source and plays it until the Arduino sets a volume or changes the input. Not healthy for your speakers if you haven’t reduced the DAM’s boot up volume!! Plus, even if you’ve reduced the DAM’s boot volume, that brief bit of sound until the external uC changes the input (if, of course, you want a different input) seems a bit.....sloppy?

For those of us using external uCs it would be nice to have a uManager option that allowed the choice to 1) disable that auto-input feature and select a default input on power-up of the DAM. Or 2) disable the auto-input and ignore any signal until the external uC sets an input when it boots. Or, 3) enable the auto-input feature (the default, out-of-the-box setting).

Maybe now that summer is winding down it can get added to the list? :D
 
Hi folks,

Recently I did some experiments to remove the 2 Hz IIR filter from the filter list. The improvement in sound quality is bigger than I would have thought. Removing the filter helps dynamics, clarity/detailing and stereo placement (though also the sound becomes somewhat more brighter & analytical). I see no reason for this filter. This improvement was reported earlier in this thread (where a nice analogy with restored paintings was made). I would advise to try it out for yourself.

Just remove the following part from the filter txt and re-generate the skr with MKROM:

dam1021,352800,8,29,5,1
29 DC Blocking IIR, 352.8 Ksps, 2 Hz HP 1st order

1.00
-1.00
0.00
0.99996438167
-0.00

dam1021,384000,8,29,5,1
29 DC Blocking IIR, 384 Ksps, 2 Hz HP 1st order

1.00
-1.00
0.00
0.99996727561
-0.00

Fedde

I just tried that but with no luck. I got no sound.
It was my first experience with MKROM so I just want to be sure that this filter mod applies to the new rev. 1.19 firmware? And it's just an edited version of the 1021filt_120 txt file?