Soren, thanks, spot on. I managed to burn the C113 capacitor. Back in the game again now.
these the parts in question?
Yes, three black ones (they are marked Qx and have three legs) in the upper right corner. You still have them on your board.
BTW, nice board v3 or v4.
Did you also remove some of the isolators?
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You can feed the SPDIF (or perhaps i2s after some surgery) signal from a cd transport into a digital interface and from there through a firewire/USB interface into your workstation (PC). The additional benefit of using the digital interface in between could be, depending on its features, that you can up sample on the fly the 44.1/16 signal to 88.2 or 176.4. I know your position on the upsampling before storing the file in this prosess but I believe that it might actually improve the (final) play back quality in case you use a high quality digital interface and make it at the later stage easier for your dac chip to deal with the data. Some dacs feel happier when you do that. There are plenty of different digital interfaces out there in diffirent qualities and price ranges, also pro ones.
Should say, however, that using a dgital interface is still a theory for me as I did not try it myself yet. Might do it at a later stage depending on the results of my cd transport modding (among other things, I will feed the SPDIF signal - or if I am lucky the i2s one - directly from cd transport signal processor into the SPDIF interface of the dam 1021. I hope that dam1021 SPDIF interface will be compatible with the SPDIF output of the cd transport signal processor - Sony CXD1125).
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Agree with you, using CD- or DVD-ROM is a safe bet and we know it works. I think the point is to explore what SQ benefits could be obtained by moving your 'workflow' outside of the noisy PC environment (which on average was not developed for audio processing) into a system that you can control and built on best available components and interfaces. Perhaps using some pro gear.
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formatcd
Forgot to bring the camera home. But just took a look.
There is nothing remaining there on my board. As I said, nothing is left other than the resistors and the shift registers on the "right" side of the board.
I was worried USB would be involved. I would try to limit usage of USB as much as possible when it comes to music.
From my experience I would bet you would get better sound using a SATA connected CD drive and the computer as much as I wish there was a way to do without one!
Mount the drive outside of the case, place it on a sturdy surface and weight it down. I have used sheets of balsa between the bottom and the top. But that could easily be because I like balsa. Nonetheless, those drives, as you know, vibrate pretty intensely while at work. Has to do something.
I have never compared files with this done alone. I consider it part of the formula.
Forgot to bring the camera home. But just took a look.
There is nothing remaining there on my board. As I said, nothing is left other than the resistors and the shift registers on the "right" side of the board.
I was worried USB would be involved. I would try to limit usage of USB as much as possible when it comes to music.
From my experience I would bet you would get better sound using a SATA connected CD drive and the computer as much as I wish there was a way to do without one!
Mount the drive outside of the case, place it on a sturdy surface and weight it down. I have used sheets of balsa between the bottom and the top. But that could easily be because I like balsa. Nonetheless, those drives, as you know, vibrate pretty intensely while at work. Has to do something.
I have never compared files with this done alone. I consider it part of the formula.
what do you think about this XMOS board to feed I2S signal to your R2R DAC?
http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/107-xmos-dsd-dxd-768khz-high-quality-usb-to-i2sdsd-pcb.html
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thanks. im looking for a power supply to power the DAC board and also this XMOS USB board which requires 3.3V with 0.8 amp current (yes it is quite power hungry). i saw the one in the pictures in your sugnature but i dont want to deal with sourcing the components. is there any pre built or complete kit that i can jkust order in one go and start building that you suggest?
do you know how the board that i linked earlier is different than this one:
XMOS Multichannel high-quality USB to/from I2S/DSD SPDIF PCB - DIYINHK
and which one would be preferable in this application?
You are not likely to find a high quality power supply pre-built for 3.3v unless it's something like a Paul Hynes. Maybe you can pay someone here to build one for you. Otherwise there is a .8mv low noise supply kit at DIYINHK. You can ask them if they will sell it to you pre-assembled. I believe they do that for some stuff. You will still need a transformer. And if you haven't diy'd around mains voltage before, you'll want to be real careful.
Another question is do you need that I2S converter in particular. The XU208 based boards like the Singxer F-1 and X-1 can't do DSD512/768 but they don't need external power plus they supply 3.3v on their own via I2S.
FYI, the DIYINHK PSUs come with all the components, except the transformer. All the SMD stuff is already soldered, you only have to solder the through-hole stuff. Pretty easy/straightforward IMO. Not quite plug-n-play, but solder-plug-n-play.
The rev3 board I ordered earlier this year shipped with 0.90 firmware. I can't remember what the default filter was. First thing I did though was to upgrade everything.
I just took delivery of another rev3 board but I haven't had a chance to power it up and see what's going on yet.
However, I believe Søren recently said the rev3 stock is almost depleted, and rev4 will be shipping soon (if not already).
