Just test with the 300VA and measure the power levels when you are opening volume to uncomfortable levels. Probably you will have peak power of a few Watts. Then all is OK whatever opinions by whoever you will hear. Stuff not breaking down in todays throw away society is worth something. If you want confirmation by prof. dr. Jens Hodges or famous DAC specialist Jim Brown that warmer amplifiers sound better then go that way. Both are unavailable when the amplifier breaks down 🙂
The extra power is one of the largest riddles in audio. Many build or buy extremely high power devices that can let nails glow but in reality they play at 1W. Unless you have extremely difficult and/or very low efficiency loads or very dynamic music (like classic) you don't need that power. With extra power the inconveniences also come: higher weight, humming transformers (who produces 100% silent toroids above 300VA?), larger size, larger heat sinks, higher cost, higher idle power. My reference amplifier is 2 x 3..4W, my daily driver 2 x 85W but I sure never play higher than a few hundred milliWatts on 6 Ohm loudspeakers. You don't seem to do either. So you derate the maximum output power (temporarily/non definitive) because you are the boss.
If you will use the 300VA one you can replace it in a few years in the still 100% OK working amplifier when a large(r) one accidentally comes on your path. Things go like that.
The extra power is one of the largest riddles in audio. Many build or buy extremely high power devices that can let nails glow but in reality they play at 1W. Unless you have extremely difficult and/or very low efficiency loads or very dynamic music (like classic) you don't need that power. With extra power the inconveniences also come: higher weight, humming transformers (who produces 100% silent toroids above 300VA?), larger size, larger heat sinks, higher cost, higher idle power. My reference amplifier is 2 x 3..4W, my daily driver 2 x 85W but I sure never play higher than a few hundred milliWatts on 6 Ohm loudspeakers. You don't seem to do either. So you derate the maximum output power (temporarily/non definitive) because you are the boss.
If you will use the 300VA one you can replace it in a few years in the still 100% OK working amplifier when a large(r) one accidentally comes on your path. Things go like that.
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Hi JKdenver -I see 2 possible soludtions:
1. use the 2 x 30 Volt-trafo and compensate in away by using LOTS of capacitors in each dc-rail. I am speaking of about 50 to 80 mF per rail
2. use the 500 W trafo ,but reduce the mainsvoltage by 10% . An used 12 volt halogen-trafo of ca. 100VA with 12volt sec. does the job. but
it is dangerous if you dont understand how it works. Thatswhy i dont explain further. stay alife!!
Ingo
1. use the 2 x 30 Volt-trafo and compensate in away by using LOTS of capacitors in each dc-rail. I am speaking of about 50 to 80 mF per rail
2. use the 500 W trafo ,but reduce the mainsvoltage by 10% . An used 12 volt halogen-trafo of ca. 100VA with 12volt sec. does the job. but
it is dangerous if you dont understand how it works. Thatswhy i dont explain further. stay alife!!
Ingo
I'd like to make sure I understand how this is done. If 20 new windings are added there will be two new leads X and Y. The 4 secondary wires are A (orange), B (yellow), C (black), and D (red). Are you saying that if leads A - X - Y are connected in series and the result is added voltage, if you connect these same leads in reverse (A - Y - X ) there would be a drop in the voltage?Aswell as extra secondaey windings on an Xformer can be used to add voltage it can be used to reduce it if the extra winding is connected 180 degrees out of phase.
Simply done by reversing the wire that is used to connect the two (*2) wires in series and measure voltage.
It can be Vsec+ Vextra or Vsec-Vextra.
I can see all the downsides to adding windings that have been mentioned, but I want to make sure I understand it conceptually. Also, yeah, it makes perfect sense that there is a drop in the VA output if you reduce V!
Thanks,
Jonathan
I agree with everything you say here Jean Paul. I have an Onkyo 504 with meters and they rarely even hit 20 watts even momentarily when I am playing loud. You are the voice of common sense wisdom!Just test with the 300VA and measure the power levels when you are opening volume to uncomfortable levels. Probably you will have peak power of a few Watts. Then all is OK whatever opinions by whoever you will hear. Stuff not breaking down in todays throw away society is worth something. If you want confirmation by prof. dr. Jens Hodges or famous DAC specialist Jim Brown that warmer amplifiers sound better then go that way. Both are unavailable when the amplifier breaks down 🙂
The extra power is one of the largest riddles in audio. Many build or buy extremely high power devices that can let nails glow but in reality they play at 1W. Unless you have extremely difficult and/or very low efficiency loads or very dynamic music (like classic) you don't need that power. With extra power the inconveniences also come: higher weight, humming transformers (who produces 100% silent toroids above 300VA?), larger size, larger heat sinks, higher cost, higher idle power. My reference amplifier is 2 x 3..4W, my daily driver 2 x 85W but I sure never play higher than a few hundred milliWatts on 6 Ohm loudspeakers. You don't seem to do either. So you derate the maximum output power (temporarily/non definitive) because you are the boss.
Thank you,
Jonathan
Yes, you understand it perfectly. The new secondary creates a voltage, which is in phase (adding to the voltage) or subrtacting if antiphase. As it was just a few volts it is atleast feasible.I'd like to make sure I understand how this is done. If 20 new windings are added there will be two new leads X and Y. The 4 secondary wires are A (orange), B (yellow), C (black), and D (red). Are you saying that if leads A - X - Y are connected in series and the result is added voltage, if you connect these same leads in reverse (A - Y - X ) there would be a drop in the voltage?
I can see all the downsides to adding windings that have been mentioned, but I want to make sure I understand it conceptually. Also, yeah, it makes perfect sense that there is a drop in the VA output if you reduce V!
Thanks,
Jonathan
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