Thanks for the lot of information Kenpeter.
Yes, you just defined my goal: to
give damping only for frequencies where correction of a
mechanical problem is actually possible, might be a very
interesting project.
This is why i go active, it is easier to correct the system weak points
if i separately drive the drivers.
Have you an exact idea how can i solve this problem.
All i want/need is to make varieable the output impedance of an amplifier.
If it is possible i like to make it the best soundng way. / Or the easier way. 🙂
If you are using separate amps, then only put series resistors on the mid
and high. Those drivers need not operate near their own Fs anyways, and
do not need electronic damping. For the woofer you leave out the resistor,
because you operate near Fs, electrical damping is effective and beneficial.
What is your source? A DAC? Vinyl?
But if i like to make the midrange and the treble make more softer. How can i make it?
Hello,
DAC will be the source mainly.
But i think i found the solution. I will still use D-class amps in my system and i will add
2nd order distortion to the signal before the amplifier, after the active electronic crossover.
It sound strange, but seriously...... The big manufacturers do the same. They use tubes to add 2nd order distortion to the sound. And it will be musical and more enjoyeable. In my wished amplifier the % of the 2nd order distortion would be variable, switcheable.
If you think about the mastering studios.... They all use compressors, limiters, and distorter modules to add warmth, dynamic to the signal. If i would have a 8 channel amplifier and i wanted to listen more warmth in the midrange and treble i just give more distortion.
I know that the warmth doesn't come in 100% from the 2nd harmonics, but if it comes in 90% from that, than i win.
DAC will be the source mainly.
But i think i found the solution. I will still use D-class amps in my system and i will add
2nd order distortion to the signal before the amplifier, after the active electronic crossover.
It sound strange, but seriously...... The big manufacturers do the same. They use tubes to add 2nd order distortion to the sound. And it will be musical and more enjoyeable. In my wished amplifier the % of the 2nd order distortion would be variable, switcheable.
If you think about the mastering studios.... They all use compressors, limiters, and distorter modules to add warmth, dynamic to the signal. If i would have a 8 channel amplifier and i wanted to listen more warmth in the midrange and treble i just give more distortion.
I know that the warmth doesn't come in 100% from the 2nd harmonics, but if it comes in 90% from that, than i win.
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Does your DAC have the capacity to play in native mode? No up-sampling? And, does it have an optical input?
What I discovered was this... I use optical. For its the cleanest signal and avoids any galvanic connection with the PC. But, the typical problem with optical has been that the optical output from the PC to the DAC has a default preset at 48,000 hz . In Windows Sound I reset it to be in the native mode of most of my audio, to 41,000 hz. Immediately the midrange warmed up and sounded more like vinyl. And, sounded clean. I locked it there an have not looked back. If I play a DVD, then I will reset it to 48,000 as to play in the DVD's native mode. The optical gives a clarity that USB can not. But, when it was defaulting to 48,000 with the Windows preset, with audio files designated @ 41,000, it was upsampling to 48,000 and removing some of the natural warmth. That is why some are critical of optical. Its the default preset 48,000 hz that is messing with the 41,000 hz audio signal.
That was just a beginning. There are other little tips along the way to get the warmth back closer to where it belongs. I found USB to be warmer, but muddled in comparison. Good digital amps can have a transparency of tubes but without adding any warmth that tubes tend to do. We are getting into a more exacting field with good digital which requires a greater attention to the details.
What I discovered was this... I use optical. For its the cleanest signal and avoids any galvanic connection with the PC. But, the typical problem with optical has been that the optical output from the PC to the DAC has a default preset at 48,000 hz . In Windows Sound I reset it to be in the native mode of most of my audio, to 41,000 hz. Immediately the midrange warmed up and sounded more like vinyl. And, sounded clean. I locked it there an have not looked back. If I play a DVD, then I will reset it to 48,000 as to play in the DVD's native mode. The optical gives a clarity that USB can not. But, when it was defaulting to 48,000 with the Windows preset, with audio files designated @ 41,000, it was upsampling to 48,000 and removing some of the natural warmth. That is why some are critical of optical. Its the default preset 48,000 hz that is messing with the 41,000 hz audio signal.
That was just a beginning. There are other little tips along the way to get the warmth back closer to where it belongs. I found USB to be warmer, but muddled in comparison. Good digital amps can have a transparency of tubes but without adding any warmth that tubes tend to do. We are getting into a more exacting field with good digital which requires a greater attention to the details.
Hello,
DAC will be the source mainly.
But i think i found the solution. I will still use D-class amps in my system and i will add
2nd order distortion to the signal before the amplifier, after the active electronic crossover.
It sound strange, but seriously...... The big manufacturers do the same. They use tubes to add 2nd order distortion to the sound. And it will be musical and more enjoyeable. In my wished amplifier the % of the 2nd order distortion would be variable, switcheable.
If you think about the mastering studios.... They all use compressors, limiters, and distorter modules to add warmth, dynamic to the signal. If i would have a 8 channel amplifier and i wanted to listen more warmth in the midrange and treble i just give more distortion.
I know that the warmth doesn't come in 100% from the 2nd harmonics, but if it comes in 90% from that, than i win.
Last edited:
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