8" usher subwoofer on parts express which gets v good reviews for sound and build quality, v good fs but quite high vas, 50 litre and 33 fb will still get f3 of 38hz
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=296-618
why not go for a 10" low vas sub like the dayton titanics? they are now about $120 each, the f3 is pretty amazing in 25-35 litre
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=296-618
why not go for a 10" low vas sub like the dayton titanics? they are now about $120 each, the f3 is pretty amazing in 25-35 litre
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RE Audio REX series are low Fs drivers
and the only 8" I have ever seen with 23hz Fs
and its in the lower price range
and the only 8" I have ever seen with 23hz Fs
and its in the lower price range
Thats bizarre Tinitus, I was researching RE last night- whats the difference between the se(x) and re(x) in terms of sound quality?
SE X series have higher Fs, which points at stiffer surround
and its more expencive
most of their drivers I suspect are designed for car SPL competion, more than good sound
and exstremely expencive
REX series looks different, and affordable
ofcourse the "price" of such specs is low sensitivity
but fore "normal" listening, 100 watt shouldnt be a problem
and its more expencive
most of their drivers I suspect are designed for car SPL competion, more than good sound
and exstremely expencive
REX series looks different, and affordable
ofcourse the "price" of such specs is low sensitivity
but fore "normal" listening, 100 watt shouldnt be a problem
That 8" has amazing specs and apparently sounds v good but low efficiency of 82.🙁
RE Audio are amongst the highest regarded car subs for sound quality and value, I don't see why they wd be inferior to Dayton, tangband or TC in a domestic system imo and they are built to last.
SRX 10" performs well in a small box and is 85.3 db /1m and its quite cheap in the UK.
I'm looking for something that will perform well in a 15 litre box... hard job
RE Audio are amongst the highest regarded car subs for sound quality and value, I don't see why they wd be inferior to Dayton, tangband or TC in a domestic system imo and they are built to last.
SRX 10" performs well in a small box and is 85.3 db /1m and its quite cheap in the UK.
I'm looking for something that will perform well in a 15 litre box... hard job
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Hey Danny, welcome to DIY subwoofers 101. As with anything else....get a little-give a little. Here's some basic problems with your idea. Your choice of a ported subwoofer in a small volume has some paradoxes to address with each one creating another
A subwoofer needs to move significant volumes of air to create low frequencies
A subwoofer that does this has either a large surface area or long linear travel or both
A subwoofer that does this also creates equal pressure INSIDE the enclosure
This pressure will exit through the port in your proposed alignment
Air passing through a port will accelerate in smaller ports
Fast moving air creates noise, compression and resonance
To aleviate the above the port needs to be of adequate size
Adequate size ports will need to be increasingly long in small enclosures
Long, adequate size ports for acceptable LF extension absorb needed enclosure volume
See the first point
In essence, all of this creates a circle of emminent failure for a low tuned small enclosure ported subwoofer. Either it won't play very well due to the tune freq or enclosure size or port air speed excess or port compression or......you get the idea.
My suggestion would be a minimum of 2cuft NET volume....meaning gross volume minus volume of braces, driver(s), port(s), and amplifier module.
If it has to be small, go sealed with a long excursion driver and a suitable amplifier with available eQ or boost to flatten the response. Use the room to your advantage with boundary gain and place it in a corner.
If you can do 2cuft net, i'd gladly help you with a suitable design with flat extension to 25hz.
It's OK to choose an acceptable volume, but not so OK to establish the tuning frequency BEFORE selecting a driver as the drivers acoustic rolloff should dictate the tune, and the acoustic rolloff of drivers is different from one to another.
A subwoofer needs to move significant volumes of air to create low frequencies
A subwoofer that does this has either a large surface area or long linear travel or both
A subwoofer that does this also creates equal pressure INSIDE the enclosure
This pressure will exit through the port in your proposed alignment
Air passing through a port will accelerate in smaller ports
Fast moving air creates noise, compression and resonance
To aleviate the above the port needs to be of adequate size
Adequate size ports will need to be increasingly long in small enclosures
Long, adequate size ports for acceptable LF extension absorb needed enclosure volume
See the first point
In essence, all of this creates a circle of emminent failure for a low tuned small enclosure ported subwoofer. Either it won't play very well due to the tune freq or enclosure size or port air speed excess or port compression or......you get the idea.
My suggestion would be a minimum of 2cuft NET volume....meaning gross volume minus volume of braces, driver(s), port(s), and amplifier module.
If it has to be small, go sealed with a long excursion driver and a suitable amplifier with available eQ or boost to flatten the response. Use the room to your advantage with boundary gain and place it in a corner.
If you can do 2cuft net, i'd gladly help you with a suitable design with flat extension to 25hz.
It's OK to choose an acceptable volume, but not so OK to establish the tuning frequency BEFORE selecting a driver as the drivers acoustic rolloff should dictate the tune, and the acoustic rolloff of drivers is different from one to another.
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I suppose its a response to my previous bold statement that they are designed mainly with SPL competition in mind
well, its a funny thing with very stiff surround and heavy cone
its built to take serious power
but probably also needs a lot of power before it even begins to produce bass
thats why I say, if low Fs, maybe ok
if higher Fs, better not
but also compare with SPL specs
and Qts, and Vas
but to me, sub bass is 20-50hz
if you are happy with 35hz and up, then I would not choose a sub driver
special exception could be small 2way's
but they usually not play very loud, or have good sensitivity, so a sub wouldnt have to be so tough
Sorry Tinitus, didnt mean it to look like that, I just heard they sound v good ! Yours and Mayhems post were good reading actually, all interesting and very valid points. My only reason for going small with the volume is for aesthetics . My goal is an f3 of 30 hz
then you should be fine with a closed design
only make sure Fs is low, and Qts not too low
most likely have -6db at 30hz
Agree:Here is a reuse of a recently posted picture:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...rs-music-only-sealed-cabinet.html#post2360009
b🙂
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