Hello,
Reccomand what is good 6.5 inch midrange to pair to Seas H0883-06 27TAF/G tweeters.
http://www.seas.no/images/stories/pr..._datasheet.pdf.
Or should another tweeter be used for better results?
Speakers original driver is also 6.5 inch, 8 Ohm mid-range/mid-bass with 6.4 Ohm measured coil resistance, about 88db sensitivity
Cut freq for midrange 150Hz - 4kHz
Midrange driver gets mounted with pressure plate that has diameter of 145mm so it good if driver has rubber at that point to fit to pressure plate.
Reccomand what is good 6.5 inch midrange to pair to Seas H0883-06 27TAF/G tweeters.
http://www.seas.no/images/stories/pr..._datasheet.pdf.
Or should another tweeter be used for better results?
Speakers original driver is also 6.5 inch, 8 Ohm mid-range/mid-bass with 6.4 Ohm measured coil resistance, about 88db sensitivity
Cut freq for midrange 150Hz - 4kHz
Midrange driver gets mounted with pressure plate that has diameter of 145mm so it good if driver has rubber at that point to fit to pressure plate.
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Are you trying to replace the midrange in an existing design? If so, it would help to know what the design is. If this is for a new creation, what are the design goals? 2-way, 3-way, used with a subwoofer, etc?
Dan
Dan
Yes to replace on existing jamo concert vii
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Design is 3 way with dual chamber push/pull bass reflex.
It almost 3 decades old speaker, i would presume midrange drivers have improved with that long time and would like to upgrade as rubber also starts to show some signs of wear on originals.
For midrange it has chamber full of damping material like on image, it could be removed.
Would plan to upgrade midranges to newer ones with similar crossover specs.
Original midrange is similar to seas p17rex driver with polypropylene or some other sort of plastic cone.
Original tweeters already got swaped to newer type and crossover caps replaced.
Design is 3 way with dual chamber push/pull bass reflex.
It almost 3 decades old speaker, i would presume midrange drivers have improved with that long time and would like to upgrade as rubber also starts to show some signs of wear on originals.
For midrange it has chamber full of damping material like on image, it could be removed.
Would plan to upgrade midranges to newer ones with similar crossover specs.
Original midrange is similar to seas p17rex driver with polypropylene or some other sort of plastic cone.
Original tweeters already got swaped to newer type and crossover caps replaced.
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No measuring equipment, but by ear,freq sweep generator and some experimenting could probably adjust tweeter cut freq to fit midrange if new driver would shift it lower.
Not sure if crossover for midrange is simply hi-low pass filter or something more complex.
If midrange filter would be simply hi,low pass filter could same resistance replacement driver work similarly enough?
Not sure if crossover for midrange is simply hi-low pass filter or something more complex.
If midrange filter would be simply hi,low pass filter could same resistance replacement driver work similarly enough?
Well, then swapping a driver probably is not going to give you an improvement. Crossovers have to be carefully tuned which cannot be done reliably by ear. Of course you can try it for fun, most people here do not build loudspeakers because "that's more efficient than buying them in a store".
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If driver has close coil resistance to original could it shift the crossover frequencies too much?
Was comparing multiple drivers and H1571-08 U18RNX/P
appears to fit well with freq respone of the tweeter , joined 2 freq response graphs with crossover freqs.
Was comparing multiple drivers and H1571-08 U18RNX/P
appears to fit well with freq respone of the tweeter , joined 2 freq response graphs with crossover freqs.
I'll tell you q, this is a crap shoot at best. Crossovers work with the frequency response and impedance of a driver to not only restrict certain frequency ranges to the drivers, but to add some EQ as well. As TBTL said, these are carefully tuned systems and you likely won't get an improvement by inserting a driver for which the system was not tuned.
With that said, however, that SEAS driver you chose (the U18) has one of the most well behaved rolloffs I've ever seen. This should give you the best chance possible for the result you seek.
Dan
With that said, however, that SEAS driver you chose (the U18) has one of the most well behaved rolloffs I've ever seen. This should give you the best chance possible for the result you seek.
Dan
The two most splendid 6" polycone drivers in common circulation these days are the 176mm H1571-08 U18RNX/P and the 170mm ScanSpeak Classic P17WJ00 6.5" Woofer.
TBH, the Vifa PL17WJ is ancient. But a goodie, IMO. The H1499-06 27TBCD/GB-DXT is an interesting tweeter too, IMO. SEAS people often use these two SEAS units together on quite simple filters. This to me is always a sign that a steeper crossover might yield even better results.
SEAS are certainly having fun with this combo: IDUNN
BRAGI
Possibly depends how good you are at woodwork. Does it fit? Does it do roughly what I want? Three ways are quite easy, IMO.
TBH, the Vifa PL17WJ is ancient. But a goodie, IMO. The H1499-06 27TBCD/GB-DXT is an interesting tweeter too, IMO. SEAS people often use these two SEAS units together on quite simple filters. This to me is always a sign that a steeper crossover might yield even better results.
SEAS are certainly having fun with this combo: IDUNN
BRAGI
Possibly depends how good you are at woodwork. Does it fit? Does it do roughly what I want? Three ways are quite easy, IMO.
Scanspeak classic 170mm would be easyer to fit.
This is schematic of original crossover , mid and tweeter crossovers are seperated, bass drivers get all signal and polarities of bass drivers are swapped.
Not sure if there is some EQ effect also included and inductor values are missing.
With those seas samples and schamatics could use same drivers and probably get similar results as the 2 way speakers if making same crossovers but box literage would still differ for midrange and midranges high pass could be tuned higher to combine to woofers.
Do the seas crossovers also have eq effect built in to make freq response more linear?
This is schematic of original crossover , mid and tweeter crossovers are seperated, bass drivers get all signal and polarities of bass drivers are swapped.
Not sure if there is some EQ effect also included and inductor values are missing.
With those seas samples and schamatics could use same drivers and probably get similar results as the 2 way speakers if making same crossovers but box literage would still differ for midrange and midranges high pass could be tuned higher to combine to woofers.
Do the seas crossovers also have eq effect built in to make freq response more linear?
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Hi, you've made quite a mess...i.e. there are some mistakes in that schematic.
Of course there are no equal value components ( the 1 mH inductors )
but ok, I guess the first L and C ( 72 uF) are for the subwoofer section ( woofers are probably 8 Ω each, which equals to a 4 Ω driver when paralleled )
and the other 72 uF cap is the first component on the midrange path.
Of course there are no equal value components ( the 1 mH inductors )
but ok, I guess the first L and C ( 72 uF) are for the subwoofer section ( woofers are probably 8 Ω each, which equals to a 4 Ω driver when paralleled )
and the other 72 uF cap is the first component on the midrange path.
That's one of the functions of a crossover, following the criterion of including the driver's "natural" response.
Would it be reasonable idea to replace tweeter, midrange and crossover as is in IDUNN kit and add high pass filter to crossover to make it 3 way?
Does midrange driver need as precise box if cut freq would be lifted to around 150hz?
As original, the dual bass drivers seem to get full freq range and it could be kept same way for simpler crossovers.
Should 30 years newer drivers give better sound or there is not much evolution?
Does midrange driver need as precise box if cut freq would be lifted to around 150hz?
As original, the dual bass drivers seem to get full freq range and it could be kept same way for simpler crossovers.
Should 30 years newer drivers give better sound or there is not much evolution?
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