Hi All,
I was looking a a Peerless XLS-P830452 for a enclosed sub box with a volume of 15 litres (0.52 cubic ft). There recommended but... that was back in 2014-2015.
I tempted to get one but if theres anything better for the same price im game.
Atb,
Sean
I was looking a a Peerless XLS-P830452 for a enclosed sub box with a volume of 15 litres (0.52 cubic ft). There recommended but... that was back in 2014-2015.
I tempted to get one but if theres anything better for the same price im game.
Atb,
Sean
I would not call that a sub, F6 is 50Hz with that. Or are you using dsp to force it lower?
The Dayton 8" RSS210HF-4 could work sealed in 30L, or the Dayton Audio 10" RSS265HF-8 in the same volume. The Dayton Audio UM10-22 does it in 20L All will go way lower (F6 of 30Hz), and the RSS265 and UM10-22 way louder than that Peerless. For the rest, there are many who can do better, but the get more expensive (above 150€/$)
The Dayton 8" RSS210HF-4 could work sealed in 30L, or the Dayton Audio 10" RSS265HF-8 in the same volume. The Dayton Audio UM10-22 does it in 20L All will go way lower (F6 of 30Hz), and the RSS265 and UM10-22 way louder than that Peerless. For the rest, there are many who can do better, but the get more expensive (above 150€/$)
Oh its definently a sub. I dont know why you wouldnt call it one?
And sorry for my limited understanding but what do you mean by F6 is 50hz with that? And running dsp to force it lower? Dont understand [emoji1360]
What would the effects be being a smaller box?
Its a prebuilt to fit in the side of the boot and being 15litres im not sure what a sub would do without a bigger box.
Thanks
That driver does not go low enough, and on a boat you need a waterproof "Marine" driver so disregard my options (as they are not fit). Nor is the Peerless. I'm not very knowledgable on those marine subwoofers so i can't advice on it. A normal subwoofer is not build to handle the circumstances (water, moisture, direct sunlight) that a sub on a boat has to stand and will break down very fast.
It was recommended on another forum to go in a sealed box. But was back 7 years ago. (Not sure if i can link it on here?)
Its intended to go in the car not on a boat and i didnt realise they were for boats (were do it say that?)
Cheers
Sealed or PR is probably best for boat duty. You don't want moisture (especially salty moisture) getting to the back of the driver and messing with the terminal leads and connection points for the cables, or anything else in there in general.
The Dayton low profile 10" driver seems like it might work ok in a sealed box that size, but that seems to be out of stock at the moment. It does have the right cone material for the job, but I can't speak to how the glue will hold up in that type of environment. Will the sub be directly exposed to sunlight ?
Dayton Audio LS10-44 10" Low Profile Subwoofer Dual 4 Ohm
The Dayton low profile 10" driver seems like it might work ok in a sealed box that size, but that seems to be out of stock at the moment. It does have the right cone material for the job, but I can't speak to how the glue will hold up in that type of environment. Will the sub be directly exposed to sunlight ?
Dayton Audio LS10-44 10" Low Profile Subwoofer Dual 4 Ohm
I appreciate the feedback guys but its not going in a boat lol
10" subwoofer for 15 Litre box - Talk Audio
10" subwoofer for 15 Litre box - Talk Audio
.........and not listed as one unless Opel builds boats too 😉: Custom Subwoofer Box Enclosure for Opel Insignia: Amazon.de: MP3 & Hifi
Yes, technically it is, just barely, since it has a calculated ~55 Hz Fb [F6] in a ~ 12 L net sealed box or ~50 Hz/15 L, which doesn't take the driver's bulk into consideration, so 'we' normally would call it a low tuned mid-bass alignment.
Regardless, it should be somewhere between these two if the published specs are reasonably accurate and being in the ~ 0.53 - 0.58 Qtc range should blend well enough with the vehicle's cabin gain to allow relatively minimal EQ to flatten out.
Don't keep up with driver availability, but this one's specs with Qts up to ~ 0.312 is a good guide.
Qts of 0.37 according to the PDF here:
Peerless 835016 XXLS SubWoofer Speaker
Did a bit of googling and they say between 0.35 and 0.45 qts works well in a ported or sealed box.
So matched with a 4ohm amp with enough powet to run it should suit me quite well?
Im not 100% in what you are saying thats why i googled the answers (and so i should lol)
??? Waxx and I used the driver in your 1st post.
True, but Qtc is a sealed box alignment Q and what is normally used to define it, so some rule-of-thumb [ROT] choices are irrelevant: Closed Sealed Subwoofer Box Equations Formulas Design Calculator Constant
In theory, should be for the Peerless XLS-P830452 whereas the XXLS has a calculated ~1.11 Qtc, so not a good choice since the accepted upper limit would be ~0.707 Qtc, but again, assume DSP can EQ it to suit.
True, but Qtc is a sealed box alignment Q and what is normally used to define it, so some rule-of-thumb [ROT] choices are irrelevant: Closed Sealed Subwoofer Box Equations Formulas Design Calculator Constant
In theory, should be for the Peerless XLS-P830452 whereas the XXLS has a calculated ~1.11 Qtc, so not a good choice since the accepted upper limit would be ~0.707 Qtc, but again, assume DSP can EQ it to suit.
To be honest with you all of this is going over my head lol
I just want a sub no deeper than 140mm thats 10" and can go in a box thats 15litres.
Id rather have quality so SQ id prefer.
Amp i would then ask in the amp section as i only want to doing this once.
£400 on a Sub and Amp but amp has to power front 4ohm 150w components.
Can you advise on a Sub?
Thank you
I just want a sub no deeper than 140mm thats 10" and can go in a box thats 15litres.
Id rather have quality so SQ id prefer.
Amp i would then ask in the amp section as i only want to doing this once.
£400 on a Sub and Amp but amp has to power front 4ohm 150w components.
Can you advise on a Sub?
Thank you
XLS-P830452 in a small box with cabin gain is a great option for a car sub. Add a bit of EQ if you want more bass.
Thanks for all the advice guys. Youll probably hate me for this but i settled for a JL 10w1v3-4 match with a inphase 4 channel amp. [emoji1360]
Cost and availability most likely to be the major deciding factors.
As long as it can move back and forth a bit (spec suggests 11mm xmax which may be a bit more than what's realistic) you'll probably be happy enough.
As long as it can move back and forth a bit (spec suggests 11mm xmax which may be a bit more than what's realistic) you'll probably be happy enough.