Hi everyone!!
I'm about recapping/adjusting an old Philips D6800 portable player.
I have another similar unit (AZ6801) which is different on the outside but identical inside. The AZ6801 is completely disadjusted and I'm waiting to arrive a signal generator to adjust it with my oscilloscope. I will also adjust the D6800. The adjustments will not increase the sound quality.... it's just for adjusting the lens, to avoid reading errors/track jumps, etc...
Both players sound is identical: not bad, but mediums are too high. I don't know if a recap will solve this, or this is just the kind of sound on this units.
I opened both players and they have a lot of caps. Some caps are blue (philips).
The main question is: can I recap it using normal caps?? In my closest store they sell normal "Jackcon" capacitors and other cheap brands. Can I use this kind of capacitors?
Or maybe I should look for better brands on the internet?
Thanks!
I'm about recapping/adjusting an old Philips D6800 portable player.
I have another similar unit (AZ6801) which is different on the outside but identical inside. The AZ6801 is completely disadjusted and I'm waiting to arrive a signal generator to adjust it with my oscilloscope. I will also adjust the D6800. The adjustments will not increase the sound quality.... it's just for adjusting the lens, to avoid reading errors/track jumps, etc...
Both players sound is identical: not bad, but mediums are too high. I don't know if a recap will solve this, or this is just the kind of sound on this units.
I opened both players and they have a lot of caps. Some caps are blue (philips).
The main question is: can I recap it using normal caps?? In my closest store they sell normal "Jackcon" capacitors and other cheap brands. Can I use this kind of capacitors?
Or maybe I should look for better brands on the internet?
Thanks!
Thanks for your reply.
I found a few online stores who sells nichicon caps, but this caps has lower voltage than the originals.
This is the complete list for recapping the Philips D6800. The ones on the right are the Nichicon I found:
2.2 μF 63V x2 ---> found 2.2uF 50V
4.7 μF 63V x2 ---> found 50v
10 μF 50V x2 ---> found 50v
22 μF 16V x3 ---> found 50v
47 μF 10V x4 ---> found 35v
470 μF 10V x2 ---> found 25v
Blue PHILIPS:
1μ 0-M 63V ---> found 50v
22μ-M 35V ---> found 50v
47μ-M 25V ---> found 35v
100μ-M 10V x4 ---> found 16v
Seems OK. Lytics are a headache usually to remove from pcb, mainly with through hole metallized. First, get a clamp tool, and firmly catch the cap, rotate it in its axis and rotate it say 90° clockwise and counterCW until it collapses and remove the body. Then, with a hot solder iron , remove the rest of the pins inside hole.
Apply suficient force to the clamp to catch it firmly but not too much to make it break and leack its juices.
Once removed completely, clean the site with solvent or a cotton wet in water to remove eventual leack of boric acid, the main component inside them.
Thus place new unit observing polarity. Solder it and cut excess of wire and re heat solder to round the solder point. With a cotton or a brush with solvent remove the excess of rosin.
Try changing one or two and test the device. If its ok, continue. In case of things going wrong, you are sure that the error is between the last few units replaced (may be you made a mistake or a failed unit). Is better to recheck one of them than 15 or 20.
In case of doubth, use a slightly higher voltage at caps but not too much high.
If the devise uses 12V as power supply, for example; and no DC/DC converters at view, use 16V or 25 at a maximum. Avoid using 50, 63 or 100V as such high voltage rating are bigger and bulkier in size, has lower resonance frequency making poorer high frequency responce and the unit not reachs its full performance.
Apply suficient force to the clamp to catch it firmly but not too much to make it break and leack its juices.
Once removed completely, clean the site with solvent or a cotton wet in water to remove eventual leack of boric acid, the main component inside them.
Thus place new unit observing polarity. Solder it and cut excess of wire and re heat solder to round the solder point. With a cotton or a brush with solvent remove the excess of rosin.
Try changing one or two and test the device. If its ok, continue. In case of things going wrong, you are sure that the error is between the last few units replaced (may be you made a mistake or a failed unit). Is better to recheck one of them than 15 or 20.
In case of doubth, use a slightly higher voltage at caps but not too much high.
If the devise uses 12V as power supply, for example; and no DC/DC converters at view, use 16V or 25 at a maximum. Avoid using 50, 63 or 100V as such high voltage rating are bigger and bulkier in size, has lower resonance frequency making poorer high frequency responce and the unit not reachs its full performance.
I think not..
Some of the caps I found has higher voltage than originals. Please check the list in post #3
