If there's electrolyte caps in the xover they may need to be replaced after a decade or two. If everything else is in working order there isn't a need to rebuild.
They will be pretty small for a high value. If you're not familiar you may have to post a picture. They may say "npe".
My speakers are crewing-vega PD-9's. I think they are close in spec's to D-9's. I bought them about 17 years ago from our base BX. I'm not sure if that helps. Can I see the xovers without tearing anything apart? If not, will they sound different compared to normal? Do I need to listen for any thing?
Pretty good chance there's a cap connected to the tweeter. Everything else might be run full range, you'll have to pull the driver and take a look inside.
the other thing you need to know - crossovers use non-polarised electrolytics, be sure to use them if you replace any, smaller values can be replaced by polyprop caps which weren't available in the good ol' days. Post pics of your xover if you can.
I'm kind of new wiht but isn't the xover in the cabinet? I'm not sure I can do that. I'm handicapped and I'm not able to do a lot. I don't get a lot of help with things like that. I'm best to take it to a shop. I have enought common since to know what I'm looking for, but to it is another thing or tell someone what to look for I can't do.
....remove the woofer ( care of the screwdriver near the cone....)
From that 'big hole' you can inspect what's inside
( 2nd warning : if the acoustic stuff inside is rock woll, wear some mask and gloves )
Make a sketch of all the connections before removing the phisical crossover.
The crossover is best outside the box, so no need to re-insert it after the modification.
From that 'big hole' you can inspect what's inside
( 2nd warning : if the acoustic stuff inside is rock woll, wear some mask and gloves )
Make a sketch of all the connections before removing the phisical crossover.
The crossover is best outside the box, so no need to re-insert it after the modification.
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