I hate to burst your bubble, but...
These are nice tweeters -- i probably have a dozen of them -- but hardly worth $200 -- for that you could buy brand new FT96. They are made by Fostex and the modern equivalent would be the FT17.
Fostex FT17H Horn Super Tweeter: Madisound Speaker Store
From the 2000 catalog:
Radio Shack 40-1310 Super Tweeter
dave
These are nice tweeters -- i probably have a dozen of them -- but hardly worth $200 -- for that you could buy brand new FT96. They are made by Fostex and the modern equivalent would be the FT17.
Fostex FT17H Horn Super Tweeter: Madisound Speaker Store
From the 2000 catalog:
Radio Shack 40-1310 Super Tweeter
dave
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Ha ha, right (Dave?). The last pair of Realistic 40-1310 on eBay went for $209 (3 days ago as of this writing). Your suggested Fostex FT17 is plastic, hardly a comparable choice. I would buy a case of the Radio Shacks for $29.99, sadly it is no longer 2000...
I'm not demanding anybody buy it from me, so move on if don't like it. I can say that wooden corks are hardly worth $30-$50 a pair, but hey, people buy it anyway...
I'm not demanding anybody buy it from me, so move on if don't like it. I can say that wooden corks are hardly worth $30-$50 a pair, but hey, people buy it anyway...
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Stranger things have happened. IIRC the last pair i sold was $30.
The aluminum ones are quite rare, yours sure do look like the much more common plastic ones -- and nothing wrong with them.
Do you have a picture of the insides? There is a pair on eBay that looks like your picture above, the additional pictures indicate they are plastic.
dave
I can assure you and everybody else - mine are all aluminum, - lens, throat, horn - one piece, only housing is plastic. I do have a picture of the inside.
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I got a pair of these for a buddies camping party speakers, think I paid $50 for the pair on e-bay for him last year, and they were all aluminum(I believe even the mount was also). Not saying your asking price may not be met, but there are other avenues to these for much cheaper. Us frugal DIY dudes always find a way LOL. $50 yes, $200 no, in my humble and very honest opinion.
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Picture from the side? Those sure look like the plastic ones. Al ones aren't that shiny.
dave
If I knew back in 1985 that WE 300B would be fetching $1200 a pair...
Those on eBay are probably mine, and no, they are not plastic, bugger off...😱)
Anyway, I am removing my original post - DIY is no place to do "business" anyway.
Those on eBay are probably mine, and no, they are not plastic, bugger off...😱)
Anyway, I am removing my original post - DIY is no place to do "business" anyway.
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Yea that's you, you posted the same picture above.
Aluminum vrs plastic. Al on the left, plastic on the right (excuse the dust).
Notice the tool marks on the left, and perfectly smooth on the right (and the afore mentioned shinyness). The Al weights 508g, the plastic 289 g.
Not revealed by the picture, the black ring on the Al lifts off to reveal screws to disassemble, you can clearly see them on the back of the plastic.
Note that the Al are 40-1310 made in Japan, the plastic 40-1310B, made in Korea. (i found some pics of 40-1310A, they are plastic as well)
And just to guarantee that i wasn't blowing smoke i took a set of side cutters to the "alleged" plastic ones. Sure enuff, snips as you would expect plastic and reveals black plastic inside.
Mr. Clefs are as those on the right from his picture -- plastic.
Note that no tweeter was truly harmed as i was planning on taking a dremel to the bezel of a pair to intimately mate up with the basket of a set of Eminence 12LTA.
dave
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No, not yet. With only a calibrated Behringer (3x), everything above 15k would be suspect anyway. Altjou i could probably make a good guesstimate averaging measures done with all 3 mics.
dave
dave
Sweet details planet10, you know your shiat lol. But whats the sensetivity on them, would be sorry if its less than 89dBs.
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I remember that driver well.....Superhorn....When RS stopped its line of drivers, some real great deals were to be had.
I picked up a pair of DVC sub-woofers,...towards "the end", for a song, as they say.
All their stuff kept getting marked down as time went on. Towards the end their drivers were discounted 50%. The last few drivers left on the shelf were going at about ten cents on the dollar.
Of the two RS sub-woofers, I wanted to do an isobaric push-pull, but just wound up putting one away and 'using' one.
As one amongst thousands, I really liked the old offerings from RS.....I do miss their selections.
RS 40-1350A__________________________________________Rick........
I picked up a pair of DVC sub-woofers,...towards "the end", for a song, as they say.
All their stuff kept getting marked down as time went on. Towards the end their drivers were discounted 50%. The last few drivers left on the shelf were going at about ten cents on the dollar.
Of the two RS sub-woofers, I wanted to do an isobaric push-pull, but just wound up putting one away and 'using' one.
As one amongst thousands, I really liked the old offerings from RS.....I do miss their selections.
RS 40-1350A__________________________________________Rick........
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These Super Tweeters can be taken further... I have.
I replaced the cheap capacitor and inductor on both of my Realistic 40-1310 Super Tweeters with great sonic results.
I installed Obligatto Gold 2.2 uf ($17 each) for capacitors with no problem. I had to get a lot more creative as you can see in the pictures with the Mundorf 14 AWG .33 mH copper foil inductors ($24 each), as there was no way these monster spools would fit inside the plastic casing. Thus, I first made a hole centered on the back of the plastic casing where I was going to place the spool to run a screw through to secure it. Next using the soldering gun tip I made two grooves (one on top, the other at the bottom) to slide the positive (+) and negative (-) copper film terminals into the casing to solder these to the crossover network. I made sure that the grooves were hidden by the spool once mounted. With all the installation holes in place, first I run the copper foil terminals through the groves and solder them in the same fashion that the previous inductor was. Did the same with the capacitor. Then I screwed the spool tight to the back side of the casing. Re-attached the tweeters to the casing and done!
They sound far crisper and give the overall presentation much more detail and focus. I spent $100 for the Super Tweeters, and $82 on the internal crossover. The refinement these brought to my system for a measly $182 can't be beat! If you try the same, I'd like to hear if you share the same impressions.
I replaced the cheap capacitor and inductor on both of my Realistic 40-1310 Super Tweeters with great sonic results.
I installed Obligatto Gold 2.2 uf ($17 each) for capacitors with no problem. I had to get a lot more creative as you can see in the pictures with the Mundorf 14 AWG .33 mH copper foil inductors ($24 each), as there was no way these monster spools would fit inside the plastic casing. Thus, I first made a hole centered on the back of the plastic casing where I was going to place the spool to run a screw through to secure it. Next using the soldering gun tip I made two grooves (one on top, the other at the bottom) to slide the positive (+) and negative (-) copper film terminals into the casing to solder these to the crossover network. I made sure that the grooves were hidden by the spool once mounted. With all the installation holes in place, first I run the copper foil terminals through the groves and solder them in the same fashion that the previous inductor was. Did the same with the capacitor. Then I screwed the spool tight to the back side of the casing. Re-attached the tweeters to the casing and done!
They sound far crisper and give the overall presentation much more detail and focus. I spent $100 for the Super Tweeters, and $82 on the internal crossover. The refinement these brought to my system for a measly $182 can't be beat! If you try the same, I'd like to hear if you share the same impressions.
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>>> I can say that wooden corks are hardly worth $30-$50 a pair, but hey, people buy it anyway...
I enjoyed reading this thread. I have been searching thru my piles of old drivers and found several of these radio shack pod tweeters - along with two boxes of piezos, both lemon squeezer and rectangular. I never 'loved' the radio shack pods but certainly liked them. They sound a bit 'small' somehow. Regardless, they are nice and I may use them as the weather warms and I figure what to build next. For what it's worth I prefer the piezos and this pod - as well as the compression drivers I have - to all of the soft dome tweeters I've tried. Those are all fizzy and fake sounding IMO.
Oh, and the 'wooden corks' in my Eminence 12lta's really made an excellent sonic improvement. I got them free but having heard them, I'd say they're well worth buying.
Zilla
I enjoyed reading this thread. I have been searching thru my piles of old drivers and found several of these radio shack pod tweeters - along with two boxes of piezos, both lemon squeezer and rectangular. I never 'loved' the radio shack pods but certainly liked them. They sound a bit 'small' somehow. Regardless, they are nice and I may use them as the weather warms and I figure what to build next. For what it's worth I prefer the piezos and this pod - as well as the compression drivers I have - to all of the soft dome tweeters I've tried. Those are all fizzy and fake sounding IMO.
Oh, and the 'wooden corks' in my Eminence 12lta's really made an excellent sonic improvement. I got them free but having heard them, I'd say they're well worth buying.
Zilla
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