Thanks for info.
Never had to touch smd components as I've never bothered with modern gear and never will to be honest. Not my cup of tea. I don't even usually bother with this type of gear as to me it's modern. I know this bit of kit is not modern but if its 1960s or earlier then I'm a happy chappy especially valve gear.
I've found when you mix lead with lead free it goes clumpy. Maybe it's just me but can't say it's mixed that well when I've tried it.
Obviously doing something wrong
Never had to touch smd components as I've never bothered with modern gear and never will to be honest. Not my cup of tea. I don't even usually bother with this type of gear as to me it's modern. I know this bit of kit is not modern but if its 1960s or earlier then I'm a happy chappy especially valve gear.
I've found when you mix lead with lead free it goes clumpy. Maybe it's just me but can't say it's mixed that well when I've tried it.
Obviously doing something wrong
Well found out what those items are one attached to chasis then soldered to rectifier board and the other attached to the transformer there UCHIYA thermostats rated 95°c. Quite high thought be around 75°c. Anyhow I'm assuming they are adjustable by one of the trim pots on the main pcb. Looking for a reset switch but cannot find one so obviously as resistance drops the unit fires back up. Almost done now well over 40 electrolytics in there they have even used ALPS pots. Having looked at a lot of the components now there not cheap rubbish. So they spent a bit of money on this model. Well hopefully the sound is descent after all this work. Surprising since it's a realistic/radio shack most people would not even give it a second thought.
Was tempted to do some wiring but decided not to.
Anyhow I'll report back on sound quality.
Was tempted to do some wiring but decided not to.
Anyhow I'll report back on sound quality.
Sorted total recap bit of re wiring gave in there needed doing.
Sound mixer filter mic aux all spot on. Vu working perfectly the reset and clipping lights now extinguished. When first got it they where on permanently.
Sound well can’t fault it. Being a realistic first school of thought crap!!! sure many think that? We’ll I’ll chew my words on that one. Those 2SA1301 & 2SC3280 very nice output.
So well worth a try if you get ya hands on one.
Plus there so cheap stick a top branded name on it add a grand to the price. Fools trap! Been there done that.
Sound mixer filter mic aux all spot on. Vu working perfectly the reset and clipping lights now extinguished. When first got it they where on permanently.
Sound well can’t fault it. Being a realistic first school of thought crap!!! sure many think that? We’ll I’ll chew my words on that one. Those 2SA1301 & 2SC3280 very nice output.
So well worth a try if you get ya hands on one.
Plus there so cheap stick a top branded name on it add a grand to the price. Fools trap! Been there done that.
The normal, usable lead-free is tin/copper/silver, with 4% silver, making it eutectic and well behaved - definitely not brittle in my experience. Bismuth is only used in very low melting point alloys, antimony is a hardener for soft alloys.
Mixing leaded and lead-free solder will not work, you have to compltely replace with one or the other to get a eutectic.
You can’t beat lead solder in my opinion it flows well creates a nice joint also easy to remove as well. Silver solder supposed to make your amp sound better audiophile opinion normally. But nice and expensive so gotta make a sonic difference right? Nope! I Fell into that trap cost me an arm and a leg for a small reel of silver solder. £50 quid plus. Used it a few times now it just sits in the cupboard collecting dust.
The conundrum here is lead solder is bad for your health!! Em really. What about the flux is that healthy to breath in? Whether it’s lead or lead free?
Oh and by the ways if you do a re cap on one of these I’ll tell you now it’s a nightmare. The rectifier board again is a nightmare to get off and clean up and removing the full wave rectifier well even worse as it sits under the pcb then screwed to chassis and greased up. The transistors easy as pie.
Plus the phono again forgot to mention spot on run my Dual 714q through it nice. You can do a lot with this unit.
So now onto me Vortexion be interesting one. Getting to the psu caps oh deary me they sit right under everything. All good fun.
The conundrum here is lead solder is bad for your health!! Em really. What about the flux is that healthy to breath in? Whether it’s lead or lead free?
Oh and by the ways if you do a re cap on one of these I’ll tell you now it’s a nightmare. The rectifier board again is a nightmare to get off and clean up and removing the full wave rectifier well even worse as it sits under the pcb then screwed to chassis and greased up. The transistors easy as pie.
Plus the phono again forgot to mention spot on run my Dual 714q through it nice. You can do a lot with this unit.
So now onto me Vortexion be interesting one. Getting to the psu caps oh deary me they sit right under everything. All good fun.
"What about the flux-----" well if you like breathing in hydrochloric acid or sometimes ( depending on the flux) nitrite acid but they pale into insignificance when the combined chemical reaction of heat/metal/resin results in a US Toxicologist Dept. warning that its a carcinogenic .
I know a guy who worked with industrial acids kept his lungs clear but he didn't have a long life .
I know a guy who worked with industrial acids kept his lungs clear but he didn't have a long life .