I have a totally stock 1961 dynakit ST70. I put it away 10 years ago because it was getting weak and the guitar shop was charging $25 for imported tubes. Now there is the internet! cool. I am going to buy some 6CA7's probably from tubesandmore because they are the only source of something else I need, and I only want to pay one shipping charge.
So which ones, JJ's ($57) (hungary?), stocker electroharmonics($57) russian, or winged C electroharmonics.($144) . They don't mention country of origin on ruby, groove tube, or Valve art, so I guess they are Chinese, whatever their features. I'm sure not buying any milk from China soon.
A guitar amp builder on chopship's thread said JJ's fail a lot. Agree? disagree?
My 25 year old GE's have the big bottle like the winged C, but I don't know if that means anything. Nobody cares what my amp looks like.
I precharged the caps, ran it at 70 VAC for a minute, then heated it up to night. I had put a test point out on point "C" the first B+ cap after the choke. I'm getting 410V idle and 400V with signal so I guess my 5AR4 is okay. The B+ can was installed in 1983, a cardboard tube from cornell-dublier, oddly enough, [email protected] I can't get more than 1 v bias current on either output pair, with new electrolytic caps on bias I installed this week. Putting 1/2 V pp in on both channels at about 800 hz quasi sine, I get about .5 v pp out on 8 ohm 225 W resistors, a little less on one channel. So I'm pretty sure it is output tube time. That is why I put it away.
Is the $144 tube set really better? This is not a guitar amp, no overdrive.
I was only getting .6V pp at the end of the .1 caps to the grids on the 6CA7's, with 330 V on the preamp B+ socket on the front, so I think the 7199's are probably weak, too. No recourse on that, except I'm getting ready to transistorize a Hammond H and it has 3 7199's in it. A little more signal in might have helped, but .5 v out is so much lower than the stocker 16.6 v pp that the scope confirms my ear, the tubes are tired. The 0.1 output grid coupler caps are film type installed in the seventies. The bias rectifier is selenium stack, installed in the seventies.
So which ones, JJ's ($57) (hungary?), stocker electroharmonics($57) russian, or winged C electroharmonics.($144) . They don't mention country of origin on ruby, groove tube, or Valve art, so I guess they are Chinese, whatever their features. I'm sure not buying any milk from China soon.
A guitar amp builder on chopship's thread said JJ's fail a lot. Agree? disagree?
My 25 year old GE's have the big bottle like the winged C, but I don't know if that means anything. Nobody cares what my amp looks like.
I precharged the caps, ran it at 70 VAC for a minute, then heated it up to night. I had put a test point out on point "C" the first B+ cap after the choke. I'm getting 410V idle and 400V with signal so I guess my 5AR4 is okay. The B+ can was installed in 1983, a cardboard tube from cornell-dublier, oddly enough, [email protected] I can't get more than 1 v bias current on either output pair, with new electrolytic caps on bias I installed this week. Putting 1/2 V pp in on both channels at about 800 hz quasi sine, I get about .5 v pp out on 8 ohm 225 W resistors, a little less on one channel. So I'm pretty sure it is output tube time. That is why I put it away.
Is the $144 tube set really better? This is not a guitar amp, no overdrive.
I was only getting .6V pp at the end of the .1 caps to the grids on the 6CA7's, with 330 V on the preamp B+ socket on the front, so I think the 7199's are probably weak, too. No recourse on that, except I'm getting ready to transistorize a Hammond H and it has 3 7199's in it. A little more signal in might have helped, but .5 v out is so much lower than the stocker 16.6 v pp that the scope confirms my ear, the tubes are tired. The 0.1 output grid coupler caps are film type installed in the seventies. The bias rectifier is selenium stack, installed in the seventies.
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