Hi all!
Sorry in advance for my babbling...
I have recently obtained a Parasound Halo A23 amp and I want to make some good speakers for it.
I have (6) 6 1/2 inch drivers which come from the Revel F50a speakers. So, I want to copy the Revel F50a speakers If I can.
I also have 1 of the midrange drivers but I don't want to spend the amount they want to buy another ($280.00). I would like to put that money into 2 new midrange and 2 new tweeters. I have wood shop class at school and I can make the speaker cabinets and match them exactly to the actual F50a cabinets. I have some pictures and the owners manual from the F50a showing the actual dimensions, which I'm sure I can replicate. I don't care how they are finished, just how good they sound.
My questions are concerning the crossover and the new midrange and tweeters.
I don't have access to the actual crossover and I don't really understand how to design one. Does anyone know the actual design of the crossover? Should I use that actual configuration since I'm going to duplicate the cabinet?
My second question is concerning the midrange and tweeters, what would be a good match for the 6 1/2 speakers I already have? The F50's have a 5.25 mids and 1 inch titanium tweeter. There is also a dial for the tweeter volume level on the speaker. I going to place the crossover outside the speaker box so I have access to it while I'm tuning the speakers... then install it later.
I am willing to spend about $400 dollars to make the cabinets and crossovers and buy the 4 speakers. I am thinking about Seas drivers... Seas MCA15RCY (H1262) 5.5"Coated Paper mid $60.00 and a Seas 27TTFNC/GW (H1461) 1" Titanium dome tweeter $80.00
I don't plan on blasting my speakers with hip hop... I just want a nice stereo sound with good imaging and detail and a moderate sound level.
Any suggestions or help would be appreciated!
Eddie
Sorry in advance for my babbling...
I have recently obtained a Parasound Halo A23 amp and I want to make some good speakers for it.
I have (6) 6 1/2 inch drivers which come from the Revel F50a speakers. So, I want to copy the Revel F50a speakers If I can.
I also have 1 of the midrange drivers but I don't want to spend the amount they want to buy another ($280.00). I would like to put that money into 2 new midrange and 2 new tweeters. I have wood shop class at school and I can make the speaker cabinets and match them exactly to the actual F50a cabinets. I have some pictures and the owners manual from the F50a showing the actual dimensions, which I'm sure I can replicate. I don't care how they are finished, just how good they sound.
My questions are concerning the crossover and the new midrange and tweeters.
I don't have access to the actual crossover and I don't really understand how to design one. Does anyone know the actual design of the crossover? Should I use that actual configuration since I'm going to duplicate the cabinet?
My second question is concerning the midrange and tweeters, what would be a good match for the 6 1/2 speakers I already have? The F50's have a 5.25 mids and 1 inch titanium tweeter. There is also a dial for the tweeter volume level on the speaker. I going to place the crossover outside the speaker box so I have access to it while I'm tuning the speakers... then install it later.
I am willing to spend about $400 dollars to make the cabinets and crossovers and buy the 4 speakers. I am thinking about Seas drivers... Seas MCA15RCY (H1262) 5.5"Coated Paper mid $60.00 and a Seas 27TTFNC/GW (H1461) 1" Titanium dome tweeter $80.00
I don't plan on blasting my speakers with hip hop... I just want a nice stereo sound with good imaging and detail and a moderate sound level.
Any suggestions or help would be appreciated!
Eddie
Sorry ,I dont know the actual xo design of that speaker.
Even if you have the orig xo, It's unlikely that another mids and tweets would work or sound properly with it.
You need to measure all the drivers and design a xo using a pc, to make a good sounding speaker.
There is no way you can clone the sound of that speaker, unless you are using the same driver with xo components values identical to the orig.
Even if you have the orig xo, It's unlikely that another mids and tweets would work or sound properly with it.
You need to measure all the drivers and design a xo using a pc, to make a good sounding speaker.
There is no way you can clone the sound of that speaker, unless you are using the same driver with xo components values identical to the orig.
Caution:
Someone locally had a set of drive units for sale that came from Revel F50 speakers- at a rather attractive price. When I phoned this guy up, he told me that the Revel F50 was recalled, due to some leaching or chemical breakdown that was happening to the materials over time. He had had his drive units replaced, and was thus selling the original units.
So: where did you get those?
BTW: I hope that I'm totally wrong about this or that I somehow got the model number wrong. However, I thought I should give you a heads-up, seeing that you intend spending some more money on these speakers.
Someone locally had a set of drive units for sale that came from Revel F50 speakers- at a rather attractive price. When I phoned this guy up, he told me that the Revel F50 was recalled, due to some leaching or chemical breakdown that was happening to the materials over time. He had had his drive units replaced, and was thus selling the original units.
So: where did you get those?
BTW: I hope that I'm totally wrong about this or that I somehow got the model number wrong. However, I thought I should give you a heads-up, seeing that you intend spending some more money on these speakers.
Shaun...
Yes, I got the all drivers from someone who had had theirs replaced.
From what I understand, they were first replaced with the same drivers, which had the same problems with some corrosion on the leads from the basket through the cone (mids and bass). I think it might have been a quality control/materials problem. Not all the speakers exhibited the problem. The mid I have has no corrosion at all as do none of the bass drivers. I also think the problem might be associated with humidity. I live in a very dry climate which might help forestall the problem with the drivers I have obtained. I'm going to try to seal the leads from the basket to the cone. Incidentally, the corrosion starts at the cone... maybe an interaction with seal chemical or solder/flux and the copper mesh wire at the cone... maybe sealing won't work at all... who knows. They have since changed the actual replacement drivers; I guess it's possible that they need to change all of the drivers because of the high failure rate, just to make sure.
Marchel...
I didn't think that I could clone the sound of the actual F50's, since I wasn't planing to use the actual drivers from the F50. I though I would use the crossovers as a starting point and go from there.
I have heard some speakers that were cobbled together which I though sounded very good. Maybe my ears aren't as discerning as some, but I think I could manage to make some decent speakers buy tinkering with the crossover once the speakers are assembled.
Also, I have access the reference speakers to listen to any time I want to compare.
btw... here's the crossover picture... can anyone tell me whats going on here in terms of circuitry or components? I guess I'm going to have to start reading up on crossover design to try to understand what is going on.
Thanks for your replies!
Yes, I got the all drivers from someone who had had theirs replaced.
From what I understand, they were first replaced with the same drivers, which had the same problems with some corrosion on the leads from the basket through the cone (mids and bass). I think it might have been a quality control/materials problem. Not all the speakers exhibited the problem. The mid I have has no corrosion at all as do none of the bass drivers. I also think the problem might be associated with humidity. I live in a very dry climate which might help forestall the problem with the drivers I have obtained. I'm going to try to seal the leads from the basket to the cone. Incidentally, the corrosion starts at the cone... maybe an interaction with seal chemical or solder/flux and the copper mesh wire at the cone... maybe sealing won't work at all... who knows. They have since changed the actual replacement drivers; I guess it's possible that they need to change all of the drivers because of the high failure rate, just to make sure.
Marchel...
I didn't think that I could clone the sound of the actual F50's, since I wasn't planing to use the actual drivers from the F50. I though I would use the crossovers as a starting point and go from there.
I have heard some speakers that were cobbled together which I though sounded very good. Maybe my ears aren't as discerning as some, but I think I could manage to make some decent speakers buy tinkering with the crossover once the speakers are assembled.
Also, I have access the reference speakers to listen to any time I want to compare.
btw... here's the crossover picture... can anyone tell me whats going on here in terms of circuitry or components? I guess I'm going to have to start reading up on crossover design to try to understand what is going on.
Thanks for your replies!
Attachments
Guess what????!!!
So do I! I bought the set of swapped-out drivers I mentioned above, so now I'm also looking for a crossover schematic.
Revel has a high-res pic of the crossover on their site (same as what you posted). I can read some of the capacitor values, but the coils are a mystery. I might just decide to roll my own, though. The owner's manual shows some of the main box dimensions. However, I would like to build a box with a bevelled fron baffle. Would you like to share ideas? I also have both mid drivers.
The mids look a bit like focal drivers.Focal at SpeakerCity
So, how far did you get with this project?
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