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Re-attaching anode cap to 805 or 811A tube

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#2
I used JB weld. It is a two part epoxy. It can be found at an auto parts store. Sometimes found in the automotive section at Wal Mart. Once it cures it is there forever, so make sure you get it right. Clean the solder out of the cap so that the wire sticks up through the hole, glue on the cap, aait about an hour, then solder the wire. Don't use so much glue that it squirts up through the hole, then you won't be able to solder the wire. It can be used to fix loose bases too.
 
#3
It can be used to fix loose bases too.
Click to expand...

How about the pins on the base? (not between base & bulb)

My EH 300B has loose pins, all of them. The electrical connections are OK, but physically loose.

The contact area between base & pin seems so small. Can epoxy really cure this?

Thanks in advance.🙂
 
#5
Hi

I've actually done this on an 811 that i bought, pulled the anode cap off when pulling the plug off!

What I did was to sand back the wire that pokes out of the glass, then took a soldering iron to the top of the anode cap, melted all of the old solder out of it.

Then got the thing sizzling hot, held it with a pair of pliers, then flooded the hole, c./w wire sticking out with solder, let it cool, and bobs your uncle.

I made sure that the new anode plugs were not so tight the next time.

hope that this helps

I think that you can safely forget expoxy and all that stuff, you will put tension on the glass etc., and it will crack, I would have thought.

bill
 
#6
I tried the sizzling hot solder method a long time ago on an 811A. The wire is under tension when the tube is cold, and gets loose when the tube is hot. The seal failed after about a year and air got into the tube. I have two glued with JB weld that have survived for over a year, but I haven't been using them in a while. I guess either method is better than what I was doing, which was an aligator clip on the wire.
 
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