You should adjust the gating considerably lower. Usually, down to 300hz or less.
Measure with the speaker on a stand, and about 4 feet away from walls or any other surfaces.
Measure with the speaker on a stand, and about 4 feet away from walls or any other surfaces.
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If you slide the gate you might be able to identify the time it comes in, if it's a delayed effect.
I was also thinking if it could be that the gasket between the tweeter and waveguide is not sealing ok?
Adjust the gate as a start. Not saying much will change on the bump, but you might as well learn how to do it correctly.
Is the woofer response you posted your design?
Is the wave-guide on a baffle? Is the woofer also mounted? (No open hole.)
Is the woofer response you posted your design?
Is the wave-guide on a baffle? Is the woofer also mounted? (No open hole.)
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The drivers are in the speaker cabinet. The woofer has a crossover designed by Kef. I plan to keep the low pass filter and fix the high pass filter.
If you have some x-over parts, I can help you with a trial and error filter for the tweeter. If you need to sim it instead, You are shooting for about a 5k x-over, and that bump can be removed as part of the filter. Looks like the Kef filter could be improved, but perhaps it will look better when you improve the measurements.
You should measure a little louder to get more of the roll-off showing, or change the scale maybe.
You should measure a little louder to get more of the roll-off showing, or change the scale maybe.
I decided to try the VituixCAD and begin by using the frequency file you provided, since it is close enough to the second waveguide I have measured. I will troubleshoot the first waveguide eventually. Do you have an impedance file (zma) also?
Thanks!
What gasket are you referring to? I did not use a gasket. In these tweeters IIRC the waveguide seals just as the original faceplate did, just by being pressed down on the edge of the dome's surround. If you add depth by using a gasket it will definitely impact the response.
The 3D print did not come out 100% perfect at that supposed sealing surface, there was some cleaning up of print support plastic to scrape off. And the 3 studs that were supposed to fit into the threads of the removed front plate screw holes unfortunately did not have the proper spacing. When measured, the 3 studs differed a little bit from 3 equal angles. I had to file down the sides of a couple of the studs to make the waveguide slide on. Still, there was a visible light ray coming in between the driver and the waveguide, so I applied a very soft seal strip type that can be compressed nearly completely without putting too much strain on things.
Sounds like your printer needs some calibrating. I would suggest using eSun PLA+ filament. The support material separates better than any other filament I've used, though I can't say I have used every one out there. Another thing you can do is a few light scuffs of the sealing area with small file to knock down any roughness. You can then take it a step further and wipe a bit of caulk on there to smooth what's left.
Thanks Brandon! I double checked the STL file and the spacing of the tabs seems correct, so I'm thinking that maybe the ASA filament could be the problem here. ASA was chosen for its greater strength than PLA, but now I hear people are having trouble with ASA warping during 3D printing.