Question regarding Proac 2.5 clone and Tempo 2 clone
I am trying to build my own speakers for the first time. I was considering ProAc 2.5 clone and Tempo 2 clone in following link due to their relatively simple design.
http://home.hetnet.nl/~geenius/Tempo.html
I decided to build Tempo 2 clone because of price of the drivers are much lower than that of ProAc 2.5 clone. I have two questions that I couldn't find a answer by searching every where on the net.
First question is
Tempo has design that the enclosure is slanted 7 degrees. What is purpose of this? The mentioned 'woofer alignment' but I have no idea what that means. Does it have something to do with listening position? If so, can I forego its slanted design if I make the enclosure little taller?
Second question is
ProAc 2.5 clone has tweeter location that is offset to the front. Again what is purpose of this? How does do you determine offset distance if I were to implement this design aspect to other design?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I am trying to build my own speakers for the first time. I was considering ProAc 2.5 clone and Tempo 2 clone in following link due to their relatively simple design.
http://home.hetnet.nl/~geenius/Tempo.html
I decided to build Tempo 2 clone because of price of the drivers are much lower than that of ProAc 2.5 clone. I have two questions that I couldn't find a answer by searching every where on the net.
First question is
Tempo has design that the enclosure is slanted 7 degrees. What is purpose of this? The mentioned 'woofer alignment' but I have no idea what that means. Does it have something to do with listening position? If so, can I forego its slanted design if I make the enclosure little taller?
Second question is
ProAc 2.5 clone has tweeter location that is offset to the front. Again what is purpose of this? How does do you determine offset distance if I were to implement this design aspect to other design?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Re: Question regarding Proac 2.5 clone and Tempo 2 clone
I meant it is offset to the center.
zoooh said:
I meant it is offset to the center.
Time alignment in the case ogf the tempo... the distance from the acoustic centre of the tweeter is a bit shorter than from the centre of the woofer
Proac it about controlling reflections from the edge of the speaker
Proac it about controlling reflections from the edge of the speaker
The slated baffle is intended to "time align" the drivers, meaning make their acoustic centers aligned vertically.
The woofer's center is back into the cone relative to the tweeter, so the slant lines them up.
The ProAc's tweeter is off-center presumably to reduce diffraction.
The goal here is to have none of the distances to the edges of the front baffle be equal.
You could do the same with the Tempo, but then it wouldn't be a Tempo, and the distance between the centers of the drivers, if changed, will affect the sound of the speaker.
I'd suggest that building a cabinet with a 7-degree slant is much more work than building the ProAc, unless you have access to quite accurate tools or you're going to have somebody cut the MDF for you.
The nice thing about the ProAc (for a first-time cloner) is that there is much discussion here and the Madisound board.
The woofer's center is back into the cone relative to the tweeter, so the slant lines them up.
The ProAc's tweeter is off-center presumably to reduce diffraction.
The goal here is to have none of the distances to the edges of the front baffle be equal.
You could do the same with the Tempo, but then it wouldn't be a Tempo, and the distance between the centers of the drivers, if changed, will affect the sound of the speaker.
I'd suggest that building a cabinet with a 7-degree slant is much more work than building the ProAc, unless you have access to quite accurate tools or you're going to have somebody cut the MDF for you.
The nice thing about the ProAc (for a first-time cloner) is that there is much discussion here and the Madisound board.
Thank you for the replys. The reason for asking question about 7 degrees slanted design was that I knew it would be hard for beginners like me to cut MDF in 7 degree angle accurately. I guess I need much more research to do before I start anything.🙂
There is always the chance that the "lumber" yard where you might buy the MDF has a workshop.... my supplier has one and they have done specialst work for me at a reasonable cost... it always a good idea to get the mdf cut professionally
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