W
willie
Here's some specs on Lexan, Alan. What are the specs of your so-called UV Glass? I tend to trust actual technical documents over yours which you admittedly say "someone" told you was good...nice research on your part. Plus yours cost almost $20.00 (and you're making no profit 🙄 ,if you say so) My piece of Lexan cost less than $3.00
Anway, here a direct quote from page 36 of the Lexan Specs PDF (followed by some links you can find more info from):
LEXAN resin has excellent light
transparency, which is close to that of
glass, and a very high refractive index of
1.586. Its highest transmission rate is in
the visible light and infrared region, as
shown in FIGURE 17.
FIGURE 18 shows the excellent light
transmission of standard natural color
LEXAN 141R resin at different
thicknesses. The light transmission
of transparent LEXAN resin can be
changed if required. Grades such as
LEXAN 143R-111 and LEXAN LS2-111
have a built-in UV screen to filter out
UV radiation up to 380 nm. Modified
grades such as LEXAN OQ4320 resin
will even reach 400 nm, thereby
providing additional sun protection
without affecting the transmission in the
visible region.
History of Lexan:
http://www.gelexan.com/gelexan/timeline.html
Lexan website:
http://www.geplastics.com/resins/materials/lexan.html
Link to technical specs .pdf for Lexan.
http://www.geplastics.com/resins/techsolution/productguide.html
Anway, here a direct quote from page 36 of the Lexan Specs PDF (followed by some links you can find more info from):
LEXAN resin has excellent light
transparency, which is close to that of
glass, and a very high refractive index of
1.586. Its highest transmission rate is in
the visible light and infrared region, as
shown in FIGURE 17.
FIGURE 18 shows the excellent light
transmission of standard natural color
LEXAN 141R resin at different
thicknesses. The light transmission
of transparent LEXAN resin can be
changed if required. Grades such as
LEXAN 143R-111 and LEXAN LS2-111
have a built-in UV screen to filter out
UV radiation up to 380 nm. Modified
grades such as LEXAN OQ4320 resin
will even reach 400 nm, thereby
providing additional sun protection
without affecting the transmission in the
visible region.
History of Lexan:
http://www.gelexan.com/gelexan/timeline.html
Lexan website:
http://www.geplastics.com/resins/materials/lexan.html
Link to technical specs .pdf for Lexan.
http://www.geplastics.com/resins/techsolution/productguide.html
I'm not sure why you were so bitter towards me. This safety glass meets a specific ISO standard for UV safety glass, so when I was presented with the UV filtering figures, I tend to believe them. Also, tempered glass can probably handle more heat than lexan (assuming anyone is considering putting them directly in front of the lamp, which I don't really recommend in the case of lexan especially).
I wish you would believe me about the no profit part. I've tried to keep this website open and updated for the community - not for myself - for the past 3 years or so. You're certainly not the first person to question my integrity or motives, but I don't know when I ever gave anyone reason to question them in the first place. My profits are low, and overly conservative for the amount of work I do. I high doubt anyone else would work for the "per hour" wage that I end up making. You don't ever hear me complaining about that either; because I really do like what I'm doing, or at least I used to. Recently there has been more people questioning integrity, and pointing fingers at each other... this whole DIY thing used to be a sort of brotherhood where we all help each other out. More and more I feel like the spirit of DIYAudio members has gone away from that, and it really ticks me off. That's why I went off and made my own website, and my own forums, and my own store - to make a convenient one-stop for people who don't want to have to weed through all of the crap that people fling at each other. I don't know if what you wrote in your previous post really deserved such a long reply, so understand that this message is the result of several months of abrassive comments. Bottom line - if you don't like me, my services, my website, or whatever, then simply don't use my website or buy the products I offer. I try to help people and save them money, and if people aren't interested in that anymore, then I'll discontinue my website entirely and go do something more financially rewarding like being a fry cook at McD's.
I wish you would believe me about the no profit part. I've tried to keep this website open and updated for the community - not for myself - for the past 3 years or so. You're certainly not the first person to question my integrity or motives, but I don't know when I ever gave anyone reason to question them in the first place. My profits are low, and overly conservative for the amount of work I do. I high doubt anyone else would work for the "per hour" wage that I end up making. You don't ever hear me complaining about that either; because I really do like what I'm doing, or at least I used to. Recently there has been more people questioning integrity, and pointing fingers at each other... this whole DIY thing used to be a sort of brotherhood where we all help each other out. More and more I feel like the spirit of DIYAudio members has gone away from that, and it really ticks me off. That's why I went off and made my own website, and my own forums, and my own store - to make a convenient one-stop for people who don't want to have to weed through all of the crap that people fling at each other. I don't know if what you wrote in your previous post really deserved such a long reply, so understand that this message is the result of several months of abrassive comments. Bottom line - if you don't like me, my services, my website, or whatever, then simply don't use my website or buy the products I offer. I try to help people and save them money, and if people aren't interested in that anymore, then I'll discontinue my website entirely and go do something more financially rewarding like being a fry cook at McD's.
W
willie
I would just like to see some specs on the glass that you sell as UV Glass. You say you don't trust Lexan when the specs are here to prove it works, and it's way less expensive then the glass you're selling. You say your glass blocks 99% of UV, ...who's the manufacturer and where is the proof?
It' s not that I'm bitter towards you, it's that I'm tired of seeing everybody trying to make a buck off of something that started out as a community sharing ideas. If you're glass is as good as you say, show me the manufacturer's specs. I just want to see why it's worth spending that much for it, when Lexan is so much cheaper. It's nothing personal against you or your website. I appreciate the info you give out, and like many others I learned a lot in the beginning from your site.
And like I said before, give me the reasons you don't trust Lexan like you stated in your previous ad...I mean post. It works well and it's MUCH cheaper than the glass your selling. True, you can't put it close to the lamp as glass, but it's not necessary to (But I think I recall reading in the .pdf that Lexan can stand temps up to around 200 F).
It' s not that I'm bitter towards you, it's that I'm tired of seeing everybody trying to make a buck off of something that started out as a community sharing ideas. If you're glass is as good as you say, show me the manufacturer's specs. I just want to see why it's worth spending that much for it, when Lexan is so much cheaper. It's nothing personal against you or your website. I appreciate the info you give out, and like many others I learned a lot in the beginning from your site.
And like I said before, give me the reasons you don't trust Lexan like you stated in your previous ad...I mean post. It works well and it's MUCH cheaper than the glass your selling. True, you can't put it close to the lamp as glass, but it's not necessary to (But I think I recall reading in the .pdf that Lexan can stand temps up to around 200 F).
Okay, I think we are at an understanding now. The reason I initially made the comment about not trusting lexan wasn't necessarily because I don't believe the specs, I just was unfamiliar with it and didn't know if one could assume that all lexan blocked UV rays, much in the same way that not all glass can block UV.
My only other concern with lexan is the temperature. Isn't lexan kind of like plexiglas? I'd just be woried that it would warp under heat, and I use my glass to brace my fresnel lens so that it won't warp. If lexan works in the long run and doesn't warp at all and it will keep my frsenel lens straight even under heat, then I'll stop being an advocate for glass and start pushing lexan because it would be nice to use something lighter that people can cut by themselves.
Back to the glass, I'm 99% certain that ours meets an ISO standard for safety glass in automobiles, so when I'm back in the office next week I can look up what ISO that is and post it here as well as in our online store if anyone wants to check up on it. If it's not an ISO, but something else instead, then I'll try to get some concrete facts for the glass.
As I said earlier, I don't care which way people go as long as their solution makes sense for them. And I really do not make a profit on my glass ($17.00 material cost, 7% tax, 3% Paypal fees ... ok so apparently I make about 12 cents per piece of glass sold).
My only other concern with lexan is the temperature. Isn't lexan kind of like plexiglas? I'd just be woried that it would warp under heat, and I use my glass to brace my fresnel lens so that it won't warp. If lexan works in the long run and doesn't warp at all and it will keep my frsenel lens straight even under heat, then I'll stop being an advocate for glass and start pushing lexan because it would be nice to use something lighter that people can cut by themselves.
Back to the glass, I'm 99% certain that ours meets an ISO standard for safety glass in automobiles, so when I'm back in the office next week I can look up what ISO that is and post it here as well as in our online store if anyone wants to check up on it. If it's not an ISO, but something else instead, then I'll try to get some concrete facts for the glass.
As I said earlier, I don't care which way people go as long as their solution makes sense for them. And I really do not make a profit on my glass ($17.00 material cost, 7% tax, 3% Paypal fees ... ok so apparently I make about 12 cents per piece of glass sold).
Found this here in Iceland "Sunergy@"
It´s a glass thats combining the qualities of a sun (UV)- and Heatloosing glass. Okey to make my self clear 🙂 this is a glass that is suposed to prevent heat to get past it and also it has a 33% SF (Solar Factor) wich in english would mean a little UV light would get past it 🙂 but i havent got a hold of an sales man there but i will do that the first thing in the morning.
The glass is 6mm thick but the one with the most UV protection is 26mm and is filled with argon gaz.... wich i find odd but yeah plz if someone know´s anything about this plz let me know 🙂
The brand of the glass is "Sunergy@"
It´s a glass thats combining the qualities of a sun (UV)- and Heatloosing glass. Okey to make my self clear 🙂 this is a glass that is suposed to prevent heat to get past it and also it has a 33% SF (Solar Factor) wich in english would mean a little UV light would get past it 🙂 but i havent got a hold of an sales man there but i will do that the first thing in the morning.
The glass is 6mm thick but the one with the most UV protection is 26mm and is filled with argon gaz.... wich i find odd but yeah plz if someone know´s anything about this plz let me know 🙂
The brand of the glass is "Sunergy@"
To keep the Lexan spirit alive, a little resumee of lexan facts, i could discuss all polycarbonates but I have nearly only information of Lexan: (I am pretty sure other UV-stabilized polycarbonates have pretty much the same characteristics, for example Marlon FSX)
1. Lexan comes in different kinds
2. All Lexan sheets block some UV, but in the progress they do turn yellowish, this happens also after prolonged heat exposure. But we are talking thousands of hours here.
3. Only UV-stabilized Lexan will block 99,9% of UV (some up to 380nm, some up to 400nm) These won't turn yellow for a very very long period.
these include:
-Lexan XL10 (single side UV)
-Lexan Exell D (double sided UVprotected)
-Lexan Margard (double sided UVprotected, anti scratch, strong)
4. Lexan blocks a little IR
5. Lexan can take a lot of heat, a working maximum temperature of up to 120C is doable, for extended time of usage.
6. Lexan might warp, have no evidence of that though. The Margard type is pretty solid.
7. Lexan is cheap, I ordered a sample for free 🙂
http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/Solar/PROJECTS/SolarCooker/lexanpaper.pdf
So in conclusion I think Lexan is a little underapreciate by some. I think people generally think plastics are inferior, however I the Lexan products should be considered as high tech. I think especially the pj's with a 150 or up to a 250W MH lamp can be UV filtered with Lexan, preferably the lexan is placed behind a condensor lense to minimize heat, because when using Lexan, heat and IR might be your next problem.
1. Lexan comes in different kinds
2. All Lexan sheets block some UV, but in the progress they do turn yellowish, this happens also after prolonged heat exposure. But we are talking thousands of hours here.
3. Only UV-stabilized Lexan will block 99,9% of UV (some up to 380nm, some up to 400nm) These won't turn yellow for a very very long period.
these include:
-Lexan XL10 (single side UV)
-Lexan Exell D (double sided UVprotected)
-Lexan Margard (double sided UVprotected, anti scratch, strong)
4. Lexan blocks a little IR
5. Lexan can take a lot of heat, a working maximum temperature of up to 120C is doable, for extended time of usage.
6. Lexan might warp, have no evidence of that though. The Margard type is pretty solid.
7. Lexan is cheap, I ordered a sample for free 🙂
http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/Solar/PROJECTS/SolarCooker/lexanpaper.pdf
So in conclusion I think Lexan is a little underapreciate by some. I think people generally think plastics are inferior, however I the Lexan products should be considered as high tech. I think especially the pj's with a 150 or up to a 250W MH lamp can be UV filtered with Lexan, preferably the lexan is placed behind a condensor lense to minimize heat, because when using Lexan, heat and IR might be your next problem.
Thats impossible, a 250w or even a 150w HQI will turn the Lexan into liquid. Your playing with 300c here +.
Trev🙂
behind the condensor, that is from the lamp's point of view offcourse. The condensor should always be quite close to the lamp anyway, no point in shoving your precious lexan in between! 😉
UV filter & IR filter by Rosco
I have located IR and UV filters in the form of flexible sheets. Here is some useful information...
IR Filter
Product name: Rosco Super Heat Shield
Specs: Available is sizes 20"x24" and larger.
Quote from manufacturer: "Properly used, it increases the life of color filters in very hot fixtures without reducing light transmission."
Comments: Designed to be used with 1000W bulbs in stage productions. Normally, it would be inserted between the bulb and a colour filter. Manufacturer reccomends 1/2" air space on both sides.
Cost:$12.83 for the 20"x24" sheet at http://www.stagetechnology.com/catalog.cfm under "Color Filters & Related Products"
Neilson182 says: Might keep my NEC 1545V cool
Check out the Thermashield too!!
UV filter
Product name: Rosco UV Filter
Specs: Available in sizes 20"x24" and larger. Blocks 90+% of UV (i.e. below 390 nanometers).
Quote from manufacturer: "The UV Filter is a virtually transparent filter, specially coated to absorb ultraviolet rays."
Comments: Clear to the eye, normally used at a light source or over windows.
Cost:$7.34 for the 20"x24" sheet at http://www.stagetechnology.com/catalog.cfm under "Color Filters & Related Products"
Neilson182 says: Might keep my NEC 1545V from turning black
Prices are from Stage Technology in Minneapolis Minnesota because it's close to me. There are many other Rosco distributers in USA on the Rosco Directory. Prices might be even lower from another distributer, but I haven't checked out anyone outside of Minnesota.
I have located IR and UV filters in the form of flexible sheets. Here is some useful information...
IR Filter
Product name: Rosco Super Heat Shield
Specs: Available is sizes 20"x24" and larger.
Quote from manufacturer: "Properly used, it increases the life of color filters in very hot fixtures without reducing light transmission."
Comments: Designed to be used with 1000W bulbs in stage productions. Normally, it would be inserted between the bulb and a colour filter. Manufacturer reccomends 1/2" air space on both sides.
Cost:$12.83 for the 20"x24" sheet at http://www.stagetechnology.com/catalog.cfm under "Color Filters & Related Products"
Neilson182 says: Might keep my NEC 1545V cool
Check out the Thermashield too!!UV filter
Product name: Rosco UV Filter
Specs: Available in sizes 20"x24" and larger. Blocks 90+% of UV (i.e. below 390 nanometers).
Quote from manufacturer: "The UV Filter is a virtually transparent filter, specially coated to absorb ultraviolet rays."
Comments: Clear to the eye, normally used at a light source or over windows.
Cost:$7.34 for the 20"x24" sheet at http://www.stagetechnology.com/catalog.cfm under "Color Filters & Related Products"
Neilson182 says: Might keep my NEC 1545V from turning black
Prices are from Stage Technology in Minneapolis Minnesota because it's close to me. There are many other Rosco distributers in USA on the Rosco Directory. Prices might be even lower from another distributer, but I haven't checked out anyone outside of Minnesota.
Great links, thanks!
The Rosco Super Heat Shield description says:
"Super Heat Shield deflects convected heat"
That is just hot air! It does nothing to remove IR from the light.
Since Lexan XL10 blocks hot air quite well and also blocks >99.9% of the UV, I don't think anybody needs either of these Rosco products.
But the Rosco Thermashield is another thing altogether. This is a spectrally-selective metallic thin film on a plastic base. In other words, it's a hot mirror. It is also quite a bit more expensive:
12" by 12" $29
20" by 24" $53
It only has 80% transmission of the visible light, so it is not as good as a glass hot mirror. But the price is MUCH MUCH cheaper! There is a competitor (or maybe it is actually the very same stuff): VK-70 & VK-75 film from V-Kool.
The Rosco Super Heat Shield description says:
"Super Heat Shield deflects convected heat"
That is just hot air! It does nothing to remove IR from the light.
Since Lexan XL10 blocks hot air quite well and also blocks >99.9% of the UV, I don't think anybody needs either of these Rosco products.
But the Rosco Thermashield is another thing altogether. This is a spectrally-selective metallic thin film on a plastic base. In other words, it's a hot mirror. It is also quite a bit more expensive:
12" by 12" $29
20" by 24" $53
It only has 80% transmission of the visible light, so it is not as good as a glass hot mirror. But the price is MUCH MUCH cheaper! There is a competitor (or maybe it is actually the very same stuff): VK-70 & VK-75 film from V-Kool.
Rosco Thermashield
Yes you are quite right about the Rosco Super Heat Shield not blocking IR. I did not notice that wording!! I posted about the Super Heat Shield because it was less expensive. Although deflecting heat may work, I wanted an IR filter. It appears the Rosco Thermashield does indeed achieve this.
IR Filter (really this time!!)
Product name: Rosco Thermashield
Specs: Available in 12"x12" and 20"x24"
Quote from the manufacturer: "Set in the beam of a lighting instrument, it will reflect back infra-red energy, effectively reducing the transmitted heat, while transmitting 80% of the visible light."
Comments: Suitable for use with 1000 Watt 120 V bulbs.
Cost: $25.29 for the 12"x12" at http://www.stagetechnology.com/catalog.cfm under "Color Filters and Related Products"
Neilson182 says: Blocks 20% of visible light=OK as long as my LCD stays nice and cool!! Raises color temp. of a 3200K source to 3500K. Plus this actually reflects IR, unlike the Rosco Super Heat Shield which blocks heat.
Yes you are quite right about the Rosco Super Heat Shield not blocking IR. I did not notice that wording!! I posted about the Super Heat Shield because it was less expensive. Although deflecting heat may work, I wanted an IR filter. It appears the Rosco Thermashield does indeed achieve this.
IR Filter (really this time!!)
Product name: Rosco Thermashield
Specs: Available in 12"x12" and 20"x24"
Quote from the manufacturer: "Set in the beam of a lighting instrument, it will reflect back infra-red energy, effectively reducing the transmitted heat, while transmitting 80% of the visible light."
Comments: Suitable for use with 1000 Watt 120 V bulbs.
Cost: $25.29 for the 12"x12" at http://www.stagetechnology.com/catalog.cfm under "Color Filters and Related Products"
Neilson182 says: Blocks 20% of visible light=OK as long as my LCD stays nice and cool!! Raises color temp. of a 3200K source to 3500K
. Plus this actually reflects IR, unlike the Rosco Super Heat Shield which blocks heat.- Status
- Not open for further replies.