I'm considering modifying a pair of quad 63s by adding an extra pair of bass panels - but what I have to hand are a the mid-range panels. As far as I can see, if I just connect the delay lines together so that the panel work as a single unit, they should function the same as a bas panel.
Any comments on this?
On the conversion from 4 panels to 6 - I have read a few threads on this, and many of them go into a lot of detail on the delay lines, termination values.... and then end by saying it should work just fine. Is it really as simple as this?
Any comments on this?
On the conversion from 4 panels to 6 - I have read a few threads on this, and many of them go into a lot of detail on the delay lines, termination values.... and then end by saying it should work just fine. Is it really as simple as this?
The best way to get more bass and at the same time limit big excursions on the bass panels
is with subs and a first order crossover to the Quads. (6db)
This maintains the transient perfect output of the speaker and allows higher output and less distortion and gives you more adjustability in output and placement in the bass.
You won’t get that if you butcher the speaker to add bass panels that don’t handle deep bass
well anyway.
I see people playing these on the floor and these will always sound better and more transparent and open with better balance off the floor at least 12” or more
Regards
David
is with subs and a first order crossover to the Quads. (6db)
This maintains the transient perfect output of the speaker and allows higher output and less distortion and gives you more adjustability in output and placement in the bass.
You won’t get that if you butcher the speaker to add bass panels that don’t handle deep bass
well anyway.
I see people playing these on the floor and these will always sound better and more transparent and open with better balance off the floor at least 12” or more
Regards
David
Thanks guys. I have my prime set (which I'm not modifying as I've just completed a full rebuild on them) on stands about 15" off the floor.
The ones I'm thinking of modifying are a second set, and I happen to have 4 mid panels to hand so I could do this within existing resources. Anyway, I'll keep reading for another bit.
The ones I'm thinking of modifying are a second set, and I happen to have 4 mid panels to hand so I could do this within existing resources. Anyway, I'll keep reading for another bit.
I second what David said. The best solution is to cross to a sub. Don't ask a dipole to do what it just can't do well. But we differ in our crossover opinions. I'm a BIG believer in active crossover and steep, like fourth order (24 dB/oct). Keep it low like 80-100 hz to let the quad do what it does best. even 80 hz is over the resonant point of the panels and most of the excursion will be gone as will be most of the power demands.
As someone who has a set of the 6 panel quads, I don't think I'd modify a set of 4 panel speakers to get more bass with extra panels. The difference is not worth the effort. You will be shocked at how little difference a single extra panel will make, and the effort is high. A nice well built set of subs that form speaker stands with the best driver you can afford and a well designed active crossover feeding a set of class D amps for the subs will get you so far ahead of an extra set of bass panels that you will be shocked.
That said, yes, you could short all the rings together and make a bass panel out of the mid panel, but it's not 100% because there is a lot of dead space between the rings that you won't be using. I'd hunt around and find a dead panel (there are dead ones everywhere; thank you Quad) before turning a mid panel into a bass panel.
However this is just my unsolicited opinion, if you want to add a panel and it will be fun for you, go for it. no harm done.
Sheldon
As someone who has a set of the 6 panel quads, I don't think I'd modify a set of 4 panel speakers to get more bass with extra panels. The difference is not worth the effort. You will be shocked at how little difference a single extra panel will make, and the effort is high. A nice well built set of subs that form speaker stands with the best driver you can afford and a well designed active crossover feeding a set of class D amps for the subs will get you so far ahead of an extra set of bass panels that you will be shocked.
That said, yes, you could short all the rings together and make a bass panel out of the mid panel, but it's not 100% because there is a lot of dead space between the rings that you won't be using. I'd hunt around and find a dead panel (there are dead ones everywhere; thank you Quad) before turning a mid panel into a bass panel.
However this is just my unsolicited opinion, if you want to add a panel and it will be fun for you, go for it. no harm done.
Sheldon
Thanks Sheldon - your comments are especially valuable as from what you say you have both 4 and 6 panel versions to compare. That kind of comparison is like hens teeth.
Right now I'll keep reading and looking around and see what pops up. The overall idea here was to make a steel frame and bolt the panels to that to make the whole assembly more rigid, but now wonder if I just could make a few brackets and neatly bolt the support rails to the side supports and achieve 90% of the same effect. Although I can't pick up any voltage on the support rails, I note they are insulated top and bottom, so some leakage across must have been expected. Anyway, plenty of thinking to be done. I also want to revisit the input capacitor and resistor. I have a bypass cap there, but think a new bipolar wouldn't do any harm at all, and maybe a better resistor as well. Anyway, we'll see how we get on with that.
Right now I'll keep reading and looking around and see what pops up. The overall idea here was to make a steel frame and bolt the panels to that to make the whole assembly more rigid, but now wonder if I just could make a few brackets and neatly bolt the support rails to the side supports and achieve 90% of the same effect. Although I can't pick up any voltage on the support rails, I note they are insulated top and bottom, so some leakage across must have been expected. Anyway, plenty of thinking to be done. I also want to revisit the input capacitor and resistor. I have a bypass cap there, but think a new bipolar wouldn't do any harm at all, and maybe a better resistor as well. Anyway, we'll see how we get on with that.
I do exactly what you are proposing. A 1/2" long 4-40 standoff works perfectly on both sides. I use a pan-head fastener on the brackets that the panels bolt to and flat heads with countersinks on the outer frame members. Panels and speaker bodies are now a super rigid unit.
This is particularly useful on the 989's where the panel brackets are still flimsy like the 63's, but they are now 50% longer. The panels can flex so much that the dust covers are often damaged in shipping. A stand-off in the middle of each rail and things are tight and locked down.
Also I'm missing your lovely island. I was due to go back and covid hit. My wife and I are missing a few weeks of hiking on the western side.
Sheldon
This is particularly useful on the 989's where the panel brackets are still flimsy like the 63's, but they are now 50% longer. The panels can flex so much that the dust covers are often damaged in shipping. A stand-off in the middle of each rail and things are tight and locked down.
Also I'm missing your lovely island. I was due to go back and covid hit. My wife and I are missing a few weeks of hiking on the western side.
Sheldon
Thanks Sheldon for the tip, I think I have some that I can use easily enough. I will experiment and report back.
If you make your way to the Emerald isle at any stage give me a shout. I'm on the eastern side though....
If you make your way to the Emerald isle at any stage give me a shout. I'm on the eastern side though....