Hello All,
A few years back I came to obtain a pair of Quad II's and a Quad 202 pre-amp, which look to be all original (no updated mods).
After sitting boxed up for many years, I'm seriously considering whether to restore or to sell as they are.
I have quite a bit of valve experience, but my interest is in guitar amplification, I've not delved into the world of hi-fi before.
Restoration would be dependent on value of unrestored but original vs restored, but also whether a sympathetic restoration would be achievable.
Interested to hear any thoughts and advice.
Thanks,
James
A few years back I came to obtain a pair of Quad II's and a Quad 202 pre-amp, which look to be all original (no updated mods).
After sitting boxed up for many years, I'm seriously considering whether to restore or to sell as they are.
I have quite a bit of valve experience, but my interest is in guitar amplification, I've not delved into the world of hi-fi before.
Restoration would be dependent on value of unrestored but original vs restored, but also whether a sympathetic restoration would be achievable.
Interested to hear any thoughts and advice.
Thanks,
James
For the lot, you will get around £500 on EBAY.
Restoration costs (moderate) - say - £300
Restored EBAY price £800 upwards
Try putting them on EBAY at a start price of £500 and see what happens.
.
Restoration costs (moderate) - say - £300
Restored EBAY price £800 upwards
Try putting them on EBAY at a start price of £500 and see what happens.
.
I have professionally restored two Quad2 amplifiers and they sold for £930 on fleabay.
Restoration, replace electrolytics and check/replace out of tolerance resistors came to around £160 plus valves if required.
Restoration, replace electrolytics and check/replace out of tolerance resistors came to around £160 plus valves if required.
I'm working on a pair of IIs and a Quad 22 at the moment.
The IIs are quite easy to repair, even re-doing all the Carbon Comp. resistors (they drift substantially). It's the work of an afternoon, if you have all the parts. (The only really tricky one is the can capacitor, but you can get good multi-section caps from F&T that you can fit in)
The 22, however, is a much different beast. You *can* replace just the electrolytics, but again -- the CC resistors will have drifted. You're also stuck with a pre-amp from the '60s, when they had to make the choice between mono and stereo, be flexible with MM and MC cartridges, and different RIAA EQs.
That makes the 22 not a very good modern pre without re-working some of the inputs.
I made the decision to make the IIs as stock as possible, but re-wire the 22 for more modern inputs (CD, Network Player, Phone, etc.) because I wanted something useful and useable.
So it will probably come down to how useful you think you'll find the setup down the road. If you want a useful pre, you'll probably want to mod the 22. If you don't want to mod the 22, then it's probably best if you sell it on so someone else can make that call.
The IIs are quite easy to repair, even re-doing all the Carbon Comp. resistors (they drift substantially). It's the work of an afternoon, if you have all the parts. (The only really tricky one is the can capacitor, but you can get good multi-section caps from F&T that you can fit in)
The 22, however, is a much different beast. You *can* replace just the electrolytics, but again -- the CC resistors will have drifted. You're also stuck with a pre-amp from the '60s, when they had to make the choice between mono and stereo, be flexible with MM and MC cartridges, and different RIAA EQs.
That makes the 22 not a very good modern pre without re-working some of the inputs.
I made the decision to make the IIs as stock as possible, but re-wire the 22 for more modern inputs (CD, Network Player, Phone, etc.) because I wanted something useful and useable.
So it will probably come down to how useful you think you'll find the setup down the road. If you want a useful pre, you'll probably want to mod the 22. If you don't want to mod the 22, then it's probably best if you sell it on so someone else can make that call.
Thanks for the advice.
It was always the II's do look relatively straightforward, I was always more daunted by the 22.
As you mention, it is a very old-fashioned type of pre-amp.
You mentioned a re-wire of the 22 to make it a more modern-friendly pre-amp. Do you have any more information on that? Sounds like something worth looking into.
It was always the II's do look relatively straightforward, I was always more daunted by the 22.
As you mention, it is a very old-fashioned type of pre-amp.
You mentioned a re-wire of the 22 to make it a more modern-friendly pre-amp. Do you have any more information on that? Sounds like something worth looking into.
That's some great advice, thank you.
I've been doing a bit of research over the last few months and pretty much come to the same conclusion as what you have said.
The II's are pretty straightforward. The 22 was always the more daunting prospect. Like you say, it is an old fashioned pre-amp.
I'm very interested to know what you did to 'modernise' your 22, as my current set-up would require Phono stage as well as some line level inputs.
James
Restore power amps by yourself (said that You have some experience with guitar amps).
After that, 100% You will keep them for personal listening 🙂
These are one of the best Push-Pull tube power amps I heard. I am listening them for decades.
...
You have only a "few" parts to replace. And prepare to be amazed how tolerance of the resistor changed from original values on the SCH...
...
First things to check with care because f high voltage.
1. current trough the output tubes - should be 65mA per tube, about 130mA, measuring DC voltage across the cathode resistor.
2. Check 2 signal C I think 100nF each on grid every output tube. Should be 0V. If You have some higher voltage on grids after Cs that is implicating that C conducting DC component and should be replaced. Turn amp off from line...
...
I am sure that You will find many tips and tutorials about checking and restoring this beautiful amp
...
cheers 🙂
Restore power amps by yourself (said that You have some experience with guitar amps).
After that, 100% You will keep them for personal listening 🙂
These are one of the best Push-Pull tube power amps I heard. I am listening them for decades.
...
You have only a "few" parts to replace. And prepare to be amazed how tolerance of the resistor changed from original values on the SCH...
...
First things to check with care because f high voltage.
1. current trough the output tubes - should be 65mA per tube, about 130mA, measuring DC voltage across the cathode resistor.
2. Check 2 signal C I think 100nF each on grid every output tube. Should be 0V. If You have some higher voltage on grids after Cs that is implicating that C conducting DC component and should be replaced. Turn amp off from line...
...
I am sure that You will find many tips and tutorials about checking and restoring this beautiful amp
...
cheers 🙂
If you want to sell them, people like the un-touched very clean and tidy examples so they can restore them or have them restored. Just make them look as clean and complete as possible, leads, Osram/Marconi valves etc. This should get you the most for them.
If they are not really tidy, then consider lightly renovating them, you will break even at least and you will have some fun doing them.
Do not even bother with the control unit, that is just wasting money.
If you want them as hifi for your own use then they are fun to restore and simple to work on. Plenty of online info and ideas too.
Lots of people like their smooth 'valve' sound, but they are just too lush, lacking in detail and 'flat' for my taste. Sorry...
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