10" woofer. Kicker CV-R for now. two drivers, two tubes. Depending on my DVC wiring they'll get somewhere between 250-450w RMS each. Probably closer to the 250w because I hate running them at 1 ohm for anything other than SPL only.
I guess this is it, good review and price!
Kicker 07CVR104 (07CVR10-4) 10" Dual 4 ohm CompVR Car Subwoofer
Kicker 07CVR104 (07CVR10-4) 10" Dual 4 ohm CompVR Car Subwoofer
- Don't obsess over getting the internal volume exactly right. A few percent won't make any significant difference in the performance. The driver parameters will vary more than that.
- The tubing will be plenty rigid enough for a sub enclosure without bracing or double walls. People who doubt it haven't tried sitting on it. 🙂 I have a length of 15 inch that I have similar plans for.
- Don't use screws. If the glue doesn't hold, screws won't help. (It's the same with conventional enclosures, screws into the end grain of MDF are a waste of time.)
- Make the ends a tight fit in the tube, it'll keep the joints in compression. (stronger)
- If you're considering making for sale, it'll be easier to get a "professional" finish if you add a second set of end plates of larger diameter than the pipe. See oDougbo's post above for an example of making them with built-in "feet". If you have end plates, you can make a neat job of glueing an outer cover on the tube. You can use that charcoal coloured industrial felt carpet used on "pro sound" speaker enclosures, or choose a colour to suit the room decor.
- The tubing will be plenty rigid enough for a sub enclosure without bracing or double walls. People who doubt it haven't tried sitting on it. 🙂 I have a length of 15 inch that I have similar plans for.
- Don't use screws. If the glue doesn't hold, screws won't help. (It's the same with conventional enclosures, screws into the end grain of MDF are a waste of time.)
- Make the ends a tight fit in the tube, it'll keep the joints in compression. (stronger)
- If you're considering making for sale, it'll be easier to get a "professional" finish if you add a second set of end plates of larger diameter than the pipe. See oDougbo's post above for an example of making them with built-in "feet". If you have end plates, you can make a neat job of glueing an outer cover on the tube. You can use that charcoal coloured industrial felt carpet used on "pro sound" speaker enclosures, or choose a colour to suit the room decor.
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Don,
Second end plate, YES the basket/frame is very thick and if I was to build one as per the sketch, I would add a "dress-up-ring".
Second end plate, YES the basket/frame is very thick and if I was to build one as per the sketch, I would add a "dress-up-ring".
Polyfill is used in full range boxes to eliminate mid frequencies coming out of a port and causing cancellations and "smearing".
Polyfill can increase the apparent volume of a box, but you don't need to do that.
Polyfill will reduce the sub's output.
If you are crossing around 100 Hz, the wavelengths are too long to create standing waves in the cabinet, there is no reason to fill it.
Yep. Them's the ones. I've owned a lot of middle-of-the-road subs and these are fine. Nothing special. I thought the efficiency was a little low, but I just spent an extra $50 on an amp with more RMS and I've been pretty happy. This will be the third car they've been in and they've taken a beating without showing wear. I was very disappointed with them in the first vehicle which was a 98 F150 xcab, but in their defense they were in one of those under-seat boxes that fires on the floor and only had 0.75 cu ft per side. That wasn't a fair test.
I think it will be interesting to put them in these really good enclosures and see what they can do.
Also, I agree with the ideas on the "dress up ring/feet" and thanks for the polyfill tech.
I think for these boxes I'll probably dress them up a bit more than the carpet. I think I'll carefully sand and fill the outside and paint it with a high-gloss laquer.
I think for these boxes I'll probably dress them up a bit more than the carpet. I think I'll carefully sand and fill the outside and paint it with a high-gloss laquer.
The carpet outside is a good idea, there's probably going to be some echo/tube like sound from the pvc.
Most folks will tell you not to put any damping/stuffing in a sub woofer box, unless there there is a compelling reason, e.g. pvc box.
The dynamat would be a good liner, but it is really expensive, I think a thin cork layer on the inside of the tube would be just as good.
24"x48" sheets- Cork Collection Roll 3/32 Bulletin board, Crafts, organize, | eBay
Most folks will tell you not to put any damping/stuffing in a sub woofer box, unless there there is a compelling reason, e.g. pvc box.
The dynamat would be a good liner, but it is really expensive, I think a thin cork layer on the inside of the tube would be just as good.
24"x48" sheets- Cork Collection Roll 3/32 Bulletin board, Crafts, organize, | eBay
Think it through. lad. What frequencies will this speaker be reproducing? What resonances will it excite in the pipe walls? What sort of damping (hint, sheet lead) will be effective at those frequencies?
I have some Raamat (a knock-off of dynamat) that I can use to line the inside.... or the outside.... or both if I so desire.
Ok, so after your hints, tips, and suggestions - here is the modified plan.
Endcaps cut to fit inside the PVC with a second exterior laminated sheet that makes a "foot." Inside circumference will be heavily scuffed with 60 grit and I may cut a very shallow circumferential groove inside the pvc, and on the outside of the MDF. Once the adhesive sets, they will be a positive "keyway" that will add strength to the adhesion. I will be mixing up some West Systems epoxy to laminate the MDF together, then add some cotton fibers to the mix to make an adhesive paste to glue them in place. That will also be used as a fillet putty to fill any cosmetic imperfections in the ends. Those little epoxy tricks I learned while I was re-doing my boat floor 🙂
On the inside I will line it with dynamat. On the outside I don't know yet, but I don't have to know.
From there it should be easy to tweak.
Major appreciation, folks. Thanks. More comments always welcome!
Ok, so after your hints, tips, and suggestions - here is the modified plan.
Endcaps cut to fit inside the PVC with a second exterior laminated sheet that makes a "foot." Inside circumference will be heavily scuffed with 60 grit and I may cut a very shallow circumferential groove inside the pvc, and on the outside of the MDF. Once the adhesive sets, they will be a positive "keyway" that will add strength to the adhesion. I will be mixing up some West Systems epoxy to laminate the MDF together, then add some cotton fibers to the mix to make an adhesive paste to glue them in place. That will also be used as a fillet putty to fill any cosmetic imperfections in the ends. Those little epoxy tricks I learned while I was re-doing my boat floor 🙂
On the inside I will line it with dynamat. On the outside I don't know yet, but I don't have to know.
From there it should be easy to tweak.
Major appreciation, folks. Thanks. More comments always welcome!
The tricky part is to cut nice disk that fit well in the pvc, going to take a few tries, once you hone-in, cut a bunch. The ones that come out small won't do you much good, over sides disks can be sanded down (on a makeshift sanding table).
save your expensive glue for the pvc, use Tightbond II for MDF-MDF
not good at math? work in square inches 1.0cf is 1728, 1.25 is 2160, don't forget to add the mass of the woofer.
here's a on-line calculator: Calculating the Volume of a cylinder
Once you get going, I'd build at least 2, probably 3 - 4 prototype boxes, then you can A/B them.
build a ported box also (-; (-;
save your expensive glue for the pvc, use Tightbond II for MDF-MDF
not good at math? work in square inches 1.0cf is 1728, 1.25 is 2160, don't forget to add the mass of the woofer.
here's a on-line calculator: Calculating the Volume of a cylinder
Once you get going, I'd build at least 2, probably 3 - 4 prototype boxes, then you can A/B them.
build a ported box also (-; (-;
Maybe press in some braces to get the PVC as round as possible and if the diameter measures evenly at several angles, measure the inside diameter for your end plate.
Already designing a box for some high-excursion 8" ported drivers for my home theater system using more from this same stick of PVC 🙂
Thought about that as well... maybe cut a couple extra "ring baffles" and slide them in at 1/3 and 2/3 the length. I think I'll skip that for these enclosures right now, simply because my SPLs most likely won't need it or benefit from it... but for heavy duty boxes, its a great idea.
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