The fig two design has the added advantage of cancellation of vibration if the two drivers are mechanically connected.
The illustrations may be misleading though; the two volumes are identical. If you want to use two units with half the volume of one, you have to go Isobaric.
Have you read the other Push-push thread?
Steve
The illustrations may be misleading though; the two volumes are identical. If you want to use two units with half the volume of one, you have to go Isobaric.
Have you read the other Push-push thread?
Steve
Matttcattt said:Is fig one better than fig two? i dont know which method to use for a subwoofer using 15" drivers.
To my mind figure 2, is by far superior (assuming equal cabinet volume). And while we are giving credits... the driver pictured is a Shiva and generated from the Adire pdf (and was originally used for actual Shiva subs)
dave
slowmotion said:Which way do you orient it?
Front / back or side by side?
I like side-to-side (or across a corner at an angle), but given it is bass as long as it is out 3 or 4" from the wall you could push one of the woofs in facing the wall.
dave
Hi all 🙂
Ok , next Q:
( sorry for allmost highjacking the thread )
If you have only two 15" speakers would you:
A: Make one push-push sub for mono
B: Make two regular subs for stereo
if you lo-pass at 60 Hz 24 dB 😉
cheers
Ok , next Q:
( sorry for allmost highjacking the thread )
If you have only two 15" speakers would you:
A: Make one push-push sub for mono
B: Make two regular subs for stereo
if you lo-pass at 60 Hz 24 dB 😉
cheers

slowmotion said:If you have only two 15" speakers would you:
A: Make one push-push sub for mono
B: Make two regular subs for stereo
if you lo-pass at 60 Hz 24 dB 😉
I'd either A, or build A but with a partition to acoustically separate it into 2 boxes, set it up in the middle firing side-to-side and drive it in stereo.
At 60 Hz 4th order it would probably be effectively the same thing.
dave
With MDF being so cheap, you could knock up a rough version of each box and audition...
Cheers
Rob
Cheers
Rob
RobWells said:With MDF being so cheap, you could knock up a rough version of each box and audition...
Cheers
Rob
Yes, i could 😉
cheers
I agree. Go for mono push-push. Below 60Hz there's not a lot of direction in most circumstances, provided that your cabinet keeps fairly quiet.
With just two units this would probably be your best compromise.
Steve
With just two units this would probably be your best compromise.
Steve
given the recent rash of boxes with curved sides (gallo, sonus faber, B&W, etc...) how does one mange to mount a driver on a crived side. this is related to a push push application i am dreaming up.
sort of a push push version of a NHT 3.
2 12" woofers side mounted push push (audio concepts)
2 6" woofer front and back push push (SS 8546)
1 1" tweeter front (SS 9900)
1 switchable rear tweeter (not decided).
i'd need about 4 cu. f.t net internal volume (3 for the 12"s and 1 for the 6"s)
do the benefits of push push only apply to the low bass? if so how low? 80Hz? 200Hz? somewhere in between?
sort of a push push version of a NHT 3.
2 12" woofers side mounted push push (audio concepts)
2 6" woofer front and back push push (SS 8546)
1 1" tweeter front (SS 9900)
1 switchable rear tweeter (not decided).
i'd need about 4 cu. f.t net internal volume (3 for the 12"s and 1 for the 6"s)
do the benefits of push push only apply to the low bass? if so how low? 80Hz? 200Hz? somewhere in between?
navin said:do the benefits of push push only apply to the low bass? if so how low? 80Hz? 200Hz? somewhere in between?
Yes. You need tighter coupling to get the most out of them. There is also the no bafflestep thing too.
dave
navin said:given the recent rash of boxes with curved sides (gallo, sonus faber, B&W, etc...) how does one mange to mount a driver on a crived side. this is related to a push push application i am dreaming up.
I love being "part of a rash" but perhaps prefer the term leading edge. 😎
Normally the curve is in one direction only so it's not possible to mount a driver on the curve without plugging the gaps that are left. If your shape was curved top to bottom as well as side to side (eg. mounted on a sphere) it would be possible.
I've done it like this which gives the advantage of using the curve to smooth the diffraction effect as well as reducing internal standing waves.
Steve
Another idea,
if you have two speakers, check this
http://www.harman.com/wp/index.jsp?articleId=1003
best regards
Kay
if you have two speakers, check this
http://www.harman.com/wp/index.jsp?articleId=1003
best regards
Kay
I use 120 x 18" subs mounted under the floor
I find that I get good coverage, some bass and no problems with room resonances, just with neighbours.
To reduce the vibrations I use push-push by mounting another 120 x 18" subs underneath the first lot and use these for the room below.
I hope that this is helpful.
Steve
I find that I get good coverage, some bass and no problems with room resonances, just with neighbours.
To reduce the vibrations I use push-push by mounting another 120 x 18" subs underneath the first lot and use these for the room below.
I hope that this is helpful.
Steve
If you read this article, you find, it's not necessary to use more than two subs at two locations.
I believe, it's better to think about room acoustic, than push-push, pull-pull or so.
best regards
Kay
I believe, it's better to think about room acoustic, than push-push, pull-pull or so.
best regards
Kay
Just kidding Kay. I have read the article.
Will you be able to make The High End Show in Frankfurt?
Steve
Will you be able to make The High End Show in Frankfurt?
Steve
>Will you be able to make The High End Show in Frankfurt?
Excuse me, why should I handle something with this Show?
best regards
Excuse me, why should I handle something with this Show?
best regards
would the push-push effect still work if i had 6 drivers in a cube box, with all 6 magnets on a metal cube in the center?
mad idea, i know
mad idea, i know

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