Valvehead, you can stick your Miniwatter WTSDS, any time 
CTC Blow-me-Torch
(If ya had gone for a fet/bjt shunt element instead of darlingading you could have shacked with Ernie-B)
CTC Blow-me-Torch
(If ya had gone for a fet/bjt shunt element instead of darlingading you could have shacked with Ernie-B)
jacco vermeulen said:Valvehead, you can stick your Miniwatter WTSDS, any time
CTC Blow-me-Torch
(If ya had gone for a fet/bjt shunt element instead of darlingading you could have shacked with Ernie-B)
hehe
darling sandy gives ya more stability - in case when you gona stick wire from shunty not to Pumpie , but WTSDS .......... even if in that case - you don't need stability
seriously - tested with - load/no load condition , frying eggs on shunt element , Lieutenant Darling is better than Black FetAdder
me just thinkin' - mebbe Baldrick will be best solution for Shunt duty ......
Zen Mod said:
Shunty-mkII : hexfet/Miniwatt hybrid, and get Phredo to do part count battle again.
Having problem deciphering last posts, I don't know if this thread is the right one.😀
Maître Jacques says : If you halve value of before-reg- caps you should twice the value of dedicated Rs.
So if C15, C16 is 1000u so R21, R23, must be 10R?
Maître Zen says let it unchanged (sorry if I not recall right)?
What should Mallarmé do?
Mebbe my Pumpking Ashanti will play music this WE
Hehe.
manu
Maître Jacques says : If you halve value of before-reg- caps you should twice the value of dedicated Rs.
So if C15, C16 is 1000u so R21, R23, must be 10R?
Maître Zen says let it unchanged (sorry if I not recall right)?
What should Mallarmé do?
Mebbe my Pumpking Ashanti will play music this WE
Hehe.
manu
Manu said:
if you use plain metal film , for which I never know - are they 0W25 , or 0W4 - then put 2E2 , not 4E7 as in schematic and parts list ............ whatever amount of uF you have in first caps .
if you use plain carbons , you can leave 0W25 jobies here , but do not increase them ........
Thanky,
I asked because I wan't to use 1000uF/100V for the first 2, because of higher voltage after Dagnall, then 2200uF/63V as in Schematic.
I didn't found anything else than carbon 4E7
Hope it is not isnogoud.
Hehe, me Tarzan very excited to soon playing Zique with pumpkin.
manu
I asked because I wan't to use 1000uF/100V for the first 2, because of higher voltage after Dagnall, then 2200uF/63V as in Schematic.
I didn't found anything else than carbon 4E7
Hope it is not isnogoud.
Hehe, me Tarzan very excited to soon playing Zique with pumpkin.
manu
Manu,
i use two 18.7 Ohm resistors in parallel, soldered on both sides of the board.
And they are 0.6W metalfilm, total power handling 1.2 Watt.
Halving the electrolytic values halves the inrush loading, doubling the R values again halves it.
At a cost ; Twice the dissipation, Twice the voltage drop.
A major upside is the lower temperature of the resistors :
-by spreading the heat across two resistors
-by soldering the second one on the pcb bottom side
-because higher powered resistors have a lower temperature at the same load.
70mA through 18.7 Ohms is <0.1W dissipation, <1/6th of their max power capability.
i use two 18.7 Ohm resistors in parallel, soldered on both sides of the board.
And they are 0.6W metalfilm, total power handling 1.2 Watt.
Halving the electrolytic values halves the inrush loading, doubling the R values again halves it.
At a cost ; Twice the dissipation, Twice the voltage drop.
A major upside is the lower temperature of the resistors :
-by spreading the heat across two resistors
-by soldering the second one on the pcb bottom side
-because higher powered resistors have a lower temperature at the same load.
70mA through 18.7 Ohms is <0.1W dissipation, <1/6th of their max power capability.
Manu said:
Désolé, les principales trucs du Citronnier Serbe ne sont pas encore la-la-la-là.
D'abord, finito la caisse argentée du Shuntees (deux boites total)
(i'm scared my shrink will say i'm a basket case if i ask him to sit on a resistor)
Looks more like sashimi connection.
Then you show your BB-Q coffin to Manu, i'm still waiting for the LowFour2000 front plates to arriver sur mon porche.
Then you show your BB-Q coffin to Manu, i'm still waiting for the LowFour2000 front plates to arriver sur mon porche.
Re: ZM is happy camper
Sure, with such a beautiful spit motor.
But there is something blue and ugly underneath.... Whats dat? : D
(Even if havind been repeated at least 10 times daily, this joke is still funny after all these years, incredible!)
Manu
Zen Mod said:
Sure, with such a beautiful spit motor.
But there is something blue and ugly underneath.... Whats dat? : D
(Even if havind been repeated at least 10 times daily, this joke is still funny after all these years, incredible!)
Manu
Re: ZM is happy camper
I want this one, too
Zen Mod said:well - then maybe is time for B-que
Franco-Ostrich-Bosnian connection 😉
I want this one, too 
