So, I started to collect the parts for the Leach amp; my first DIY.🙂
Which of the following caps would you choose?
All Panasonic and affordable in the range $ 12-15:
1) 12,000uf, 100V, 85 C, Ripple current: 8.65 & 9.95 A at 120 and 10K Hz. resp.
2) 12,000uf, 100V,105 C, Ripple current: 6.44 & 7.41 A.
3) 15,000uf, 80V, 85 C, Ripple current: 8.93 10.27 A.
If 1&2 are compared longer life vs ripple current is the concern.
The ripple current and capacitance of the 3rd one look great but again 85 C (shorter life) and lower voltage rating. Although this voltage is high enough for ~60 V rail of Leach amp. I intended to think that higher V might imply also longer life. Am I right about this point?😕
The other point is the ripple current in the data sheet is given as the current at which the life of the cap (3000 h.) is tested. I am also taking this value as ameasure of how high sudden currents the cap could supply. Is my interpretation corect? 😕
Thanks for comments.
Murat
Which of the following caps would you choose?
All Panasonic and affordable in the range $ 12-15:
1) 12,000uf, 100V, 85 C, Ripple current: 8.65 & 9.95 A at 120 and 10K Hz. resp.
2) 12,000uf, 100V,105 C, Ripple current: 6.44 & 7.41 A.
3) 15,000uf, 80V, 85 C, Ripple current: 8.93 10.27 A.
If 1&2 are compared longer life vs ripple current is the concern.
The ripple current and capacitance of the 3rd one look great but again 85 C (shorter life) and lower voltage rating. Although this voltage is high enough for ~60 V rail of Leach amp. I intended to think that higher V might imply also longer life. Am I right about this point?😕
The other point is the ripple current in the data sheet is given as the current at which the life of the cap (3000 h.) is tested. I am also taking this value as ameasure of how high sudden currents the cap could supply. Is my interpretation corect? 😕
Thanks for comments.
Murat
Hi murat,
Looked at the caps in my nearly 10 year old Leach and found 4 Panasonic 25000uF 75V. No more specs on the can. Seems they worked well all this time. Used the info provided by Dejan V. Veselinovic and others to build it out. You just might be obsessing a bit on this issue for a Leach amp. But learning is good. Here's where to learn more than most people want to know about power supplies:
http://zero-distortion.com/start.htm
and http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/ssps1_e.html
About Caps in general(useful for the rest of the board):
http://www.capacitors.com/picking_capacitors/pickcap.htm
Prosit
Looked at the caps in my nearly 10 year old Leach and found 4 Panasonic 25000uF 75V. No more specs on the can. Seems they worked well all this time. Used the info provided by Dejan V. Veselinovic and others to build it out. You just might be obsessing a bit on this issue for a Leach amp. But learning is good. Here's where to learn more than most people want to know about power supplies:
http://zero-distortion.com/start.htm
and http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/ssps1_e.html
About Caps in general(useful for the rest of the board):
http://www.capacitors.com/picking_capacitors/pickcap.htm
Prosit
if you are looking for a bargain, try about 1/4 of the way down this page: http://apexjr.com/new.htm. 10,000 uf/63 V for $1.50 each. No specs on the website, but I'd bet Steve will send you a data sheet or at least the model number if you ask.
FWIW, I used a pair of 39,000 uf/ 75V surplus chemi-con caps on my 4 channel leach. One is going bad, since I get a volt of ripple at idle, but the amp still sounds great. Otherwise built with standard mouser/digikey/arrow/newark parts.
If the amp is for home use, you aren't likely to get near 85C, so the capacitor life becomes a non issue. I have a 20+ year old hafler dh-500 that has been used several hours a day at normal/background levels with the filter caps still going strong.
Enjoy your Leach build. It was my first real DIY (the Hafler was a semi kit). take your time and it will work right the first time you fire it up.
FWIW, I used a pair of 39,000 uf/ 75V surplus chemi-con caps on my 4 channel leach. One is going bad, since I get a volt of ripple at idle, but the amp still sounds great. Otherwise built with standard mouser/digikey/arrow/newark parts.
If the amp is for home use, you aren't likely to get near 85C, so the capacitor life becomes a non issue. I have a 20+ year old hafler dh-500 that has been used several hours a day at normal/background levels with the filter caps still going strong.
Enjoy your Leach build. It was my first real DIY (the Hafler was a semi kit). take your time and it will work right the first time you fire it up.
Are these caps suitable?
I saw these 4700 uF/100V caps on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=360099789249
Would these be suitable for the on-board caps for the Leach amp
(C21/C27 on Rasmussen-Leach PCB)?
The price is right, and they're rated at 105degC... I'm wondering if they're genuine Nippon Chemicon, or maybe fakes?
TIA
-chas
I saw these 4700 uF/100V caps on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=360099789249
Would these be suitable for the on-board caps for the Leach amp
(C21/C27 on Rasmussen-Leach PCB)?
The price is right, and they're rated at 105degC... I'm wondering if they're genuine Nippon Chemicon, or maybe fakes?
TIA
-chas
Attachments
From looking on Nippon Chemicon's website, KMG series is not a large snap in capacitor - they're leaded radials. I wouldn't risk it.
Yeah. EBAY = fake trannies/caps
Just order from a reliable source (MCM,newark , etc)
http://www.newark.com/16M7734/passives/product.us0?sku=united-chemi-con-esmh101vnn472mr50t
Don't get burned
by junk parts.
Just order from a reliable source (MCM,newark , etc)
http://www.newark.com/16M7734/passives/product.us0?sku=united-chemi-con-esmh101vnn472mr50t
Don't get burned
by junk parts.- Status
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