Okay so as you all might have already guessed I'm new to audio DIY... so I apologize if my questions seem stupid...
I'm recapping my ReVox B226 CD player. It's from 1987 and for electrolytics uses only Frako and Philips blue. I know both these types tend to go bad after a while.
Following some very basic rules I bought a few diferent series of capacitors, based mainly on availability, ease of payment, low shipping costs, and went all Silmic II for the samm value electrolytics, with just a few panasonic FC here and there where space didn't allow the silmic version (or when I couldn't find the right value in Silmic II)
For bigger caps, I'm now confused. I thought anything I could buy would be much better than Frako; so I first settled on Nippon Chemicon SXE for the 2200uF PSU caps (25v, three of those): they are now installed and the sound has improved greatly. For the 10000uF/25v I first ordered a Nichicon FW. It's about to be delivered, I couldn't try it yet.
Then on another website I saw they stocked Nichicon KW, so I ordered that same 10000uF in 50v version, plus three KW 2200uF 50V, thinking maybe I should replace the Nippon Chemicon I already installed with those, and thinking maybe it's better to have the same type of caps for the whole PSU section.
But now I'm doubting wether I've made a sensible choice. Does it make any sense to use KW as PSU caps? Will it degrade performance instead of provide any audible improvement? I read audio caps are best used in the signal path, but then why on earth do they make them also in such big values? Marketing only?
Same question for the Silmic II: not being really able to tell wich caps are in the audio path (except at the most obvious locations), i decided it'd be easier to use Silmic II everywhere space allows, but now I'm doubting: will they perform OK in locations where they're NOT in the signal path?? Revox uses the same Frako type all over, except for output coupling caps and opamps decoupling (?) where they put Philips blue. Would it make more sense to use a non-audio, good quality cap to replace the Frako, and use only silmic II to replace the Philips Blue?
I've spend some money already, rushing without thinking enough... I know it was a mistake.
I don't really wanna spend more but I love this CD player and I don't wanna mess things up or end up with mediocre results.
I'm recapping my ReVox B226 CD player. It's from 1987 and for electrolytics uses only Frako and Philips blue. I know both these types tend to go bad after a while.
Following some very basic rules I bought a few diferent series of capacitors, based mainly on availability, ease of payment, low shipping costs, and went all Silmic II for the samm value electrolytics, with just a few panasonic FC here and there where space didn't allow the silmic version (or when I couldn't find the right value in Silmic II)
For bigger caps, I'm now confused. I thought anything I could buy would be much better than Frako; so I first settled on Nippon Chemicon SXE for the 2200uF PSU caps (25v, three of those): they are now installed and the sound has improved greatly. For the 10000uF/25v I first ordered a Nichicon FW. It's about to be delivered, I couldn't try it yet.
Then on another website I saw they stocked Nichicon KW, so I ordered that same 10000uF in 50v version, plus three KW 2200uF 50V, thinking maybe I should replace the Nippon Chemicon I already installed with those, and thinking maybe it's better to have the same type of caps for the whole PSU section.
But now I'm doubting wether I've made a sensible choice. Does it make any sense to use KW as PSU caps? Will it degrade performance instead of provide any audible improvement? I read audio caps are best used in the signal path, but then why on earth do they make them also in such big values? Marketing only?
Same question for the Silmic II: not being really able to tell wich caps are in the audio path (except at the most obvious locations), i decided it'd be easier to use Silmic II everywhere space allows, but now I'm doubting: will they perform OK in locations where they're NOT in the signal path?? Revox uses the same Frako type all over, except for output coupling caps and opamps decoupling (?) where they put Philips blue. Would it make more sense to use a non-audio, good quality cap to replace the Frako, and use only silmic II to replace the Philips Blue?
I've spend some money already, rushing without thinking enough... I know it was a mistake.
I don't really wanna spend more but I love this CD player and I don't wanna mess things up or end up with mediocre results.