yea I thought that might be the case I,ve changed it to 640 by 480 I,ll recheck the leads.I,m wondering also whether I need some sort of ground on the VGA cable? I cant get any display at all on the panel so a menu is not an option at this stage
Slick 69
I cant say for sure but I don't necessary think your problem is the cable then. As I said I don't have this panel but I did a search and found this thread about a start up screen "menu of sort?" do you get anything like this?
.http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13959&highlight=
From what I understand the panel should display something on start up even with no input. vga cable not even hooked up
I cant say for sure but I don't necessary think your problem is the cable then. As I said I don't have this panel but I did a search and found this thread about a start up screen "menu of sort?" do you get anything like this?
.http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13959&highlight=
From what I understand the panel should display something on start up even with no input. vga cable not even hooked up
🙁 No mate it doesnt I didnt realise that oh bugger I might have more problems.Now I,m really stuck tried to find a user manual online but had no luck.
panel menu
Not all panels will show the menu even if they are supposed to. There is a rom chip inside that sometimes will go bad for the boot menu and even though it may go bad, that doesn't mean the unit itself it bad. The "normal" menu should still work, as long as the panel is good other than the boot menu not working.
I have ran into this with at lease three systems and all worked fine other than that part of them.
I realize this may not help alot, but may give you some hope for the system.
Not all panels will show the menu even if they are supposed to. There is a rom chip inside that sometimes will go bad for the boot menu and even though it may go bad, that doesn't mean the unit itself it bad. The "normal" menu should still work, as long as the panel is good other than the boot menu not working.
I have ran into this with at lease three systems and all worked fine other than that part of them.
I realize this may not help alot, but may give you some hope for the system.
O.k tried the panel again today after changing the screen settings.Also checked and double checked the cable with a meter.I get some lines coming up on the panel but thats it.I,m busted cant work it out and think it may be time to throw in the towel and less someone out there has a miracle solution?Otherwise I think Ebay might be getting a faulty 810 panel listed.
I know this may be redundant, but did you make sure your pc was set up for 640x480 at 60hz refresh rate before hooking up the cable? If not, the panel will not work correctly and can cause the lines you are getting. If you have XP, download a free program called QuickResXP. It's a tiny file and works great for XP users giving you a quick launch icon for res changes.
Which pinout did you go for? The one I gave or the earlier, less complicated one? Using all the wires in the VGA cable may seem tideous, but well worth it to make darn sure you have a good working cable, then up your panel on ebay if it still does not work.
Oh, are you using a stock power supply? Sometimes issues can arise due to a poor power supply, a bad connection or if it is a home brewed supply, not enough current due lack of all wires in the connector not being used. Yes, I must stress, use all you can, don't take the easy way out or you will use more French words then you have ever used before.
Which pinout did you go for? The one I gave or the earlier, less complicated one? Using all the wires in the VGA cable may seem tideous, but well worth it to make darn sure you have a good working cable, then up your panel on ebay if it still does not work.
Oh, are you using a stock power supply? Sometimes issues can arise due to a poor power supply, a bad connection or if it is a home brewed supply, not enough current due lack of all wires in the connector not being used. Yes, I must stress, use all you can, don't take the easy way out or you will use more French words then you have ever used before.
Giddday Skywayflies.I hooked up cable after I changed screen resolution so this might be a issue trouble is I need to see the screen (monitor) to make sure I,ve changed resolution.I used the second pin out you supplied with all 15 wires being used at pc end.You might be on to something with power supply I,m using old pc supply and not all the wires.
1 plus 5
4 plus12
5 minus 5
and ground right down the bottom
Thing is sometimes I turn on the supply and it trips so I unplug it wiggle wires turn on again and the supply powers up.I posted my pin out for the VGA earlier in thread if you wont to check it out.
Cheers
1 plus 5
4 plus12
5 minus 5
and ground right down the bottom
Thing is sometimes I turn on the supply and it trips so I unplug it wiggle wires turn on again and the supply powers up.I posted my pin out for the VGA earlier in thread if you wont to check it out.
Cheers
I noticed with the AT PC supply you need to install a lamp either on the 12 or 5 volt output. Use a 12 turn signal or side marker lamp. I have done this several times and it forces the power supply to fully turn on.
First turn the power on the panel then plug in the power supply to the wall outlet with it's power switch turned on already. In otherwords, make sure everything is in the "on" position before plugging in the power supply to the AC outlet. The lamp will keep you from having to do this, but give it a try. Also use all pins to make sure you are getting enough current to the panel. No current, no go.
I know this is a pain, but unhook the main cable and use your monitor to change the resolution to 640x480 at 60hz on your PC. Unplug the vga to your monitor then plug in your main cable to the panel into the video card.
The 810 will NOT work unless the res and refresh are correct prior to hooking up the main cable. There is no way around it.
All else fails, recheck and check the main cable you made again (I know you have, but sometimes we miss things). I can't email you, but feel free to email me and I have a diagram that may help you some to ensure it is correct.
PS, I'd post it here, but have no clue how to, otherwise I would do it that way.
First turn the power on the panel then plug in the power supply to the wall outlet with it's power switch turned on already. In otherwords, make sure everything is in the "on" position before plugging in the power supply to the AC outlet. The lamp will keep you from having to do this, but give it a try. Also use all pins to make sure you are getting enough current to the panel. No current, no go.
I know this is a pain, but unhook the main cable and use your monitor to change the resolution to 640x480 at 60hz on your PC. Unplug the vga to your monitor then plug in your main cable to the panel into the video card.
The 810 will NOT work unless the res and refresh are correct prior to hooking up the main cable. There is no way around it.
All else fails, recheck and check the main cable you made again (I know you have, but sometimes we miss things). I can't email you, but feel free to email me and I have a diagram that may help you some to ensure it is correct.
PS, I'd post it here, but have no clue how to, otherwise I would do it that way.
Strike 3.....am i out?
Gee,s your a wealth of knowledge mate.Well tried what you said and guess what...............no go.Went through my cable again today seems o.k.One puzzling thing is all the different pin outs that seem to come up for the power supply mind u i,ved tried all of them and it makes no difference.Did see a post were someone said remove pins 6,8,9 on the 15 pin end is that correct?Also on the DIN plug what does RTN stand for? The power supply is running and with the 25 pin end dissconected the freeze and shift lights flash when I hook up they stop think that means its getting a signal? I will say that my vga doesnt have covers on either end just bare metal does this matter? I still get sort of flashing lines on the panel but no display.Almost like not enough power? but that,s a guess apart from the freeze and shift stopping the display stays the same even wihtout cable connected. My email is beattie1@iprimus.com.au if you want to use that.
Cheers
Gee,s your a wealth of knowledge mate.Well tried what you said and guess what...............no go.Went through my cable again today seems o.k.One puzzling thing is all the different pin outs that seem to come up for the power supply mind u i,ved tried all of them and it makes no difference.Did see a post were someone said remove pins 6,8,9 on the 15 pin end is that correct?Also on the DIN plug what does RTN stand for? The power supply is running and with the 25 pin end dissconected the freeze and shift lights flash when I hook up they stop think that means its getting a signal? I will say that my vga doesnt have covers on either end just bare metal does this matter? I still get sort of flashing lines on the panel but no display.Almost like not enough power? but that,s a guess apart from the freeze and shift stopping the display stays the same even wihtout cable connected. My email is beattie1@iprimus.com.au if you want to use that.
Cheers
Re: Strike 3.....am i out?
RTN means return which is another way of saying "ground". You can use that or not, it won't matter as long as the metal jacket on the DIN plug is grounded.
Pins 6 & 8 are grounds for the RGB signal, so it's best to use those. To help explain, pin 6 is the corresponding ground for pin 1, as 7 is for pin 2 and 8 for pin 3. Also pin 9 is never used, and I mean never in any type of system whether it's a crt, lcd, projector or otherwise.
Pin 15 is an ID Bit or AKA "Ground", but is needed for some setups to know a cable is connected, thus called "ID Bit". And just that, the lcd id's there is a cable present, so make sure pin 15 is present as well. Always better safe than sorry.
Not having covers or also know as hood/housings, won't prevent the lcd from working. About the only thing you would notice with out the hoods is interference from a near by CB or certain overhead lights, but you would still get a picture on the panel.
The lights flashing when the cable is not hooked up is normal and yes you still could have a power issue, but I am begining to think there actually is something wrong with the panel, unless, something still isn't quite right about the cable. Boy, this is tough not actually being there to help. By all rights and if the cable and power supply is correct, the panel should be working at this point.
RTN means return which is another way of saying "ground". You can use that or not, it won't matter as long as the metal jacket on the DIN plug is grounded.
Pins 6 & 8 are grounds for the RGB signal, so it's best to use those. To help explain, pin 6 is the corresponding ground for pin 1, as 7 is for pin 2 and 8 for pin 3. Also pin 9 is never used, and I mean never in any type of system whether it's a crt, lcd, projector or otherwise.
Pin 15 is an ID Bit or AKA "Ground", but is needed for some setups to know a cable is connected, thus called "ID Bit". And just that, the lcd id's there is a cable present, so make sure pin 15 is present as well. Always better safe than sorry.
Not having covers or also know as hood/housings, won't prevent the lcd from working. About the only thing you would notice with out the hoods is interference from a near by CB or certain overhead lights, but you would still get a picture on the panel.
The lights flashing when the cable is not hooked up is normal and yes you still could have a power issue, but I am begining to think there actually is something wrong with the panel, unless, something still isn't quite right about the cable. Boy, this is tough not actually being there to help. By all rights and if the cable and power supply is correct, the panel should be working at this point.
I dont actually have the power supply hooked up to a din plug just put the wires straight into the sockets.The ground which would be the hood on the din i simply push into the bottom socket on the panel.Heres another question for you (as if you havent had enough)lol would the flex on the cable be an issue as I,m not using pc flex I think its some sort of telephone wiring.I only ask as maybe i,m losing current?Yea its hard being on the other side of the world I guess I just want this to work so am willing to try any thing before listing the panel.May be I should try the othe cable set up with the looped wiring?
With over 130 cables built, looping the wires is not going to help one way or the other. Truly, using all the available wires has been the best for me and never have had a cable returned. You can loop them and it can work that way, but it's not the problem. I can't say off hand what the problem is, but it surely isn't the pinout I posted and surely won't matter if you loop or not. I have looped wires also, and it does work, but I prefer to use all I can to ensure a 100% working cable that I feel confident about guaranteeing. The pinout I provided is a 100% winner, no matter how you look at it. I have sold as many cables as I have built, thus far with 100% success. That alone tells me plenty about the pinout, and also that pinout was derived from the real thing.
Not having a DIN plug won't hurt a thing and sounds like a trick I did way back when. If using an AT power supply, make sure you have a lamp installed as suggested earlier. Not all power supplies will put out full power unless it knows that it needs to, otherwise it will idle just like a car giving little power output.
Typically the power supply wire should be 12-14 guage wire, anything less (thinner), like 18-24 guage wire will cause issues, one issue I ran into was the panel would click off and on when I had used 24 guage wire. The higher the guage number, the thinner the wire will be and the less current it will carry to it's destination.
By the way, you are not bothering me a bit, if you don't ask, you can't learn, so ask away.
Not having a DIN plug won't hurt a thing and sounds like a trick I did way back when. If using an AT power supply, make sure you have a lamp installed as suggested earlier. Not all power supplies will put out full power unless it knows that it needs to, otherwise it will idle just like a car giving little power output.
Typically the power supply wire should be 12-14 guage wire, anything less (thinner), like 18-24 guage wire will cause issues, one issue I ran into was the panel would click off and on when I had used 24 guage wire. The higher the guage number, the thinner the wire will be and the less current it will carry to it's destination.
By the way, you are not bothering me a bit, if you don't ask, you can't learn, so ask away.
Hey Skyway well after many hours of searching I did find a web site called askproxima there was a section in there that said "I have vertical bars on my screen" solution video dot clock out of frequency push status button and adjust.But there is no frequency button so I,m guessng its in the main menu DOH!
Anyway another question for you we as you are aware are on 230volt ac here in Australia should I still have the refresh rate at 60hz? Or would the voltage have no bearing?
Also I started a new post to see if we can drag some more interest into this might strike someone who,s sitting back with the same issue but not going into this thread.
Thanks again my friend
Anyway another question for you we as you are aware are on 230volt ac here in Australia should I still have the refresh rate at 60hz? Or would the voltage have no bearing?
Also I started a new post to see if we can drag some more interest into this might strike someone who,s sitting back with the same issue but not going into this thread.
Thanks again my friend
I have never heard of being in another country being a problem as far as power supplies go. As long as your supply is set up for the 230 on the back of the supply, you should be ok. Just in case, double check to make sure the switch is set for 230/240 and not 110/120.
If your PC runs the same resolutions as the US versions, then yes, put it on 60hz. I believe the 810's are pal compatible and should autodetect that.
Try using the shift button. I think that controls the frequency. You have to push the shift button (somewhere to the upper left on the button controls), the led should stay lit up, then use the up down buttons to chance the freq.
Last panel I had that had a simular problem had a bad controller board. I know that doesn't sound cheerful, but in the end, that may be what's wrong.
If your PC runs the same resolutions as the US versions, then yes, put it on 60hz. I believe the 810's are pal compatible and should autodetect that.
Try using the shift button. I think that controls the frequency. You have to push the shift button (somewhere to the upper left on the button controls), the led should stay lit up, then use the up down buttons to chance the freq.
Last panel I had that had a simular problem had a bad controller board. I know that doesn't sound cheerful, but in the end, that may be what's wrong.
Hey Skywayflies just an update for you I,m thinking about trying another power supply just in case that is the issue but I,m thinking it is a panel problem and might have to pass it in. The website I found askproxima hasnt answered my email asking them for advice but I expected that.
Cheers
Cheers
Could just be as easy as finding another panel. Granted not super cheap, but much cheaper than they used to be, then you would be able to test the cable and supply and have your big screen.
Return of the Portable DVD
Well Skyway I,ve lost hope in the panel Ebay here it comes.I have a portable DVD digitrex PD-100 that I bought same time as I got the panel.This is the second one yea I,ve been chasing this big screen for a while.I broke the ribbon on the first panel.So my question to you is do you have any tips for protecting the ribbon when stripping the screen out of one of these????
Cheers
Well Skyway I,ve lost hope in the panel Ebay here it comes.I have a portable DVD digitrex PD-100 that I bought same time as I got the panel.This is the second one yea I,ve been chasing this big screen for a while.I broke the ribbon on the first panel.So my question to you is do you have any tips for protecting the ribbon when stripping the screen out of one of these????
Cheers
To be honest, the only DIYing I have done outside of a Panel is turning a Sega Gamegear into a big screen. Worked ok, but as you probably know, the screens on those suck from the start.
Oh, yeah, there was a 5.6" lcd monitor I played around with and it worked ok too, but to low of res and contrast, so I gave up and just stick with the pre made panels.
Neither gave me problems with ribbons, so I really can't give any advice other than be patient, very patient and take your time, don't rush yourself, cause it isn't worth rushing it.
Oh, yeah, there was a 5.6" lcd monitor I played around with and it worked ok too, but to low of res and contrast, so I gave up and just stick with the pre made panels.
Neither gave me problems with ribbons, so I really can't give any advice other than be patient, very patient and take your time, don't rush yourself, cause it isn't worth rushing it.
I dont know Skyway think someone up there has it in for me got the player stripped and hooked up for a test the menu screen displayed normally but when I hooked up the A/V output the picture just rolls like a TV that needs its vertical hold adjusted..............what the???????
P:S just cant seem to part with that proxima *sigh*
P:S just cant seem to part with that proxima *sigh*
slick69
I think I understand what you are trying to do? Are you hooking up a input signal to the out put of you portable dvd? If the portable dvd does not have a input av jacks. The output will be the output from the player to hook up to a tv or othe display. My thought the only way this could possibly work is if you could disable the original signal output inside the unit so as not to interfere with your inserted signal. try putting a dvd in the portable player instead of inserting a signal.
I think I understand what you are trying to do? Are you hooking up a input signal to the out put of you portable dvd? If the portable dvd does not have a input av jacks. The output will be the output from the player to hook up to a tv or othe display. My thought the only way this could possibly work is if you could disable the original signal output inside the unit so as not to interfere with your inserted signal. try putting a dvd in the portable player instead of inserting a signal.
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