Hey guys i am still around if you need power supply work/help. We need a projector repair/support forum, if any admins read this thread, might wanna consider adding one 🙂
Mbates, did you read my post on faulty IN26+EP. I never did fix it in the end so flogged it as spares. I think it's a common fault on the IN24 and IN26's.
are you familiar with the mitsubishi lvp x100e MH ballast system? mitsubishi support doesnt even carry documentation for it any more
Infocus LP340 / LP350 Lamp
Hello Mbates, hello to all board members,
I figured out that you are the grandmaster of Infocus LP340 power supply repair.
Some time ago, I bought a cheap Infocus LP340 beamer on Ebay. I discovered the color wheel was broken, a piece of the red segment was stuck besides it so it could not spin any more. Believe it or not, I made myself a new red segment out of a piece of dichroidic glass I coincidentally owned. By use of a dremel tool and a lot of patience I managed to shape the glass and to glue it to the color wheel. I even balanced the wheel afterwards somehow.
O.K. that´s the story of my first beamer, it worked and I was happy.
Soon I realized that there was also an XGA version of this device, and I got an LP350 without lamp from Ebay. I changed the lamp of my 340 over to the 350 and it worked. Even more happy.
One evening I started watching a movie when the lamp bursted with a remarkably loud sound. The reflector and even the front glass broke, fortunately the lens inside the projector is still intact.
Now, I even managed to get a new, cheap Lamp from ebay, too.
But it is an original SP-Lamp3F, the newer version which according to Infocus, cannot be used in conjunction with my projector. (PS Rev0)
In one of your posts, you stated that the changes Infocus made to the power supply to adjust to the new lamp type "keep the windings of the boost converter and the mosfet from frying". You also said that the 270W SHP lamps of the member YWH need higher voltages, so the regulator on the PS board has to be turned up by 1/8th.
So, here are my questions to you:
Will my new lamp ignite and burn when I use it with the old PS?
Do I need to adjust the voltage like with the YWH lamps? (by the way, what means "turn it up by 1/8th" - clockwise or counterclockwise?)
Do you think I could prevent the boost converter (is it the transformer-like black box where the model number sticker of the PS is placed?) / mosfet from frying by extensive external cooling/ attachment of additional heat sinks? I only use the beamer to watch one movie per week, it is never turned on for more than 2-3 hours.
Finally, Is there any way to make the LP350/LP340 PS more reliable by changing some parts (e.g. capacitors, you also mentioned the optocouplers) to better quality types to prevent failure?
Otherwise, I will better convert the beamer to a different lamp type with an external switching PS, even if this means to destroy the new lamp. I don´t want to risk the loss of the new reflector caused by a bursting lamp again. I have to admit that the old lamp probably was beyond normal lifetime, because I had to reset the counter to get it to work. But I heard that this projector is also known to blow up the lamps at around 200hrs.
Thanks, Ben
Hello Mbates, hello to all board members,
I figured out that you are the grandmaster of Infocus LP340 power supply repair.
Some time ago, I bought a cheap Infocus LP340 beamer on Ebay. I discovered the color wheel was broken, a piece of the red segment was stuck besides it so it could not spin any more. Believe it or not, I made myself a new red segment out of a piece of dichroidic glass I coincidentally owned. By use of a dremel tool and a lot of patience I managed to shape the glass and to glue it to the color wheel. I even balanced the wheel afterwards somehow.
O.K. that´s the story of my first beamer, it worked and I was happy.
Soon I realized that there was also an XGA version of this device, and I got an LP350 without lamp from Ebay. I changed the lamp of my 340 over to the 350 and it worked. Even more happy.
One evening I started watching a movie when the lamp bursted with a remarkably loud sound. The reflector and even the front glass broke, fortunately the lens inside the projector is still intact.
Now, I even managed to get a new, cheap Lamp from ebay, too.
But it is an original SP-Lamp3F, the newer version which according to Infocus, cannot be used in conjunction with my projector. (PS Rev0)
In one of your posts, you stated that the changes Infocus made to the power supply to adjust to the new lamp type "keep the windings of the boost converter and the mosfet from frying". You also said that the 270W SHP lamps of the member YWH need higher voltages, so the regulator on the PS board has to be turned up by 1/8th.
So, here are my questions to you:
Will my new lamp ignite and burn when I use it with the old PS?
Do I need to adjust the voltage like with the YWH lamps? (by the way, what means "turn it up by 1/8th" - clockwise or counterclockwise?)
Do you think I could prevent the boost converter (is it the transformer-like black box where the model number sticker of the PS is placed?) / mosfet from frying by extensive external cooling/ attachment of additional heat sinks? I only use the beamer to watch one movie per week, it is never turned on for more than 2-3 hours.
Finally, Is there any way to make the LP350/LP340 PS more reliable by changing some parts (e.g. capacitors, you also mentioned the optocouplers) to better quality types to prevent failure?
Otherwise, I will better convert the beamer to a different lamp type with an external switching PS, even if this means to destroy the new lamp. I don´t want to risk the loss of the new reflector caused by a bursting lamp again. I have to admit that the old lamp probably was beyond normal lifetime, because I had to reset the counter to get it to work. But I heard that this projector is also known to blow up the lamps at around 200hrs.
Thanks, Ben
its a hit-and-miss scenario. sometimes the new lamps work in old power supplies, and sometimes the old lamps work in new power supplies.
But the newer power supplies have a lower ignition voltage so it will NOT start the older lamps. at least not without several retries.
The older ballast will run the newer lamp. although power might have to be adjusted down a hair. I dont own an LP3XX anymore as they are way too unreliable. The secondary diode is known for shorting, and if the 100uf 16V cap creeps up in ESR, it causes the viper to run hot and go bad. when the viper shorts internally, it sends 350VDC down the 15V supply pin of the VIPER and blows out the transistor, resistors and the supply rectifiers that power the viper's logic circuit
But the newer power supplies have a lower ignition voltage so it will NOT start the older lamps. at least not without several retries.
The older ballast will run the newer lamp. although power might have to be adjusted down a hair. I dont own an LP3XX anymore as they are way too unreliable. The secondary diode is known for shorting, and if the 100uf 16V cap creeps up in ESR, it causes the viper to run hot and go bad. when the viper shorts internally, it sends 350VDC down the 15V supply pin of the VIPER and blows out the transistor, resistors and the supply rectifiers that power the viper's logic circuit
Thank you!
dear mbates,
thank you very much for taking the time to post a reply to my question. So this is what I will do:
1. I will try to remove part of the silicone round the transformers to ensure better cooling of the windings and maybe attach some additional heatsinks to parts that run hot.
2. change the 100uf 16V to a low ESR type, maybe 25V 105°C
3. For the power adjustment, I´ll try to understand which direction to turn the regulator and then set it as low as possible so the lamp still ignites.
In addition, I'll try to improve cooling of the device. Updating the firmware could do the job as I heard. Unfortunately, I don´t know the pin assignment of the "cable wizard" port to solder myself a serial connection cable. So maybe I´ll connect the fans directly to 12V for full speed (loud!).
I also bought a remote control so I´ll be able to switch the device to standby before shutting off the mains which seems to be better for lamp lifetime.
What about the "regulator opto" you mentioned in a previous post?
And can you give me any hint how to tell a "new" PS from an old one? Mine bears the number 510-1486-27 CS on a sticker which is placed above the original serial number sticker. I assumed that maybe the "CS" stands for Caesium which seems to be used to replace mercury in some dischargement lamps.
For the other projector which I own, a LP340, I plan to do a radical conversion. Someone on a german DiY forum managed to replace the color wheel by a circuit which simulates the wheel and can synchronize 3 R/G/B leds. Very interesting.
I'll try that to get a quiet/ low power (low output, of course) beamer to integrate into my car 🙂
Ben
dear mbates,
thank you very much for taking the time to post a reply to my question. So this is what I will do:
1. I will try to remove part of the silicone round the transformers to ensure better cooling of the windings and maybe attach some additional heatsinks to parts that run hot.
2. change the 100uf 16V to a low ESR type, maybe 25V 105°C
3. For the power adjustment, I´ll try to understand which direction to turn the regulator and then set it as low as possible so the lamp still ignites.
In addition, I'll try to improve cooling of the device. Updating the firmware could do the job as I heard. Unfortunately, I don´t know the pin assignment of the "cable wizard" port to solder myself a serial connection cable. So maybe I´ll connect the fans directly to 12V for full speed (loud!).
I also bought a remote control so I´ll be able to switch the device to standby before shutting off the mains which seems to be better for lamp lifetime.
What about the "regulator opto" you mentioned in a previous post?
And can you give me any hint how to tell a "new" PS from an old one? Mine bears the number 510-1486-27 CS on a sticker which is placed above the original serial number sticker. I assumed that maybe the "CS" stands for Caesium which seems to be used to replace mercury in some dischargement lamps.
For the other projector which I own, a LP340, I plan to do a radical conversion. Someone on a german DiY forum managed to replace the color wheel by a circuit which simulates the wheel and can synchronize 3 R/G/B leds. Very interesting.
I'll try that to get a quiet/ low power (low output, of course) beamer to integrate into my car 🙂
Ben
Hello again Mbates and all members:
I have an infocus LP350 (power supply 510-1486-26 MagneTek 3979-03-100) with Q1 (26N50 MOSFET), U500 (L6561D PFC) and related parts blown, (maybe the boost converter windings fried ?) can someone please direct me on how to repair it ? any advice really appreciated, please tell me what I need to check to provide more stability to this power supply ?
Thanks in advance.
P.S I need to know the value or marking of Q501 (near to U500 => L6561D).
I have an infocus LP350 (power supply 510-1486-26 MagneTek 3979-03-100) with Q1 (26N50 MOSFET), U500 (L6561D PFC) and related parts blown, (maybe the boost converter windings fried ?) can someone please direct me on how to repair it ? any advice really appreciated, please tell me what I need to check to provide more stability to this power supply ?
Thanks in advance.
P.S I need to know the value or marking of Q501 (near to U500 => L6561D).
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