I am in the process of selecting my mids drivers.
There are many products at comparable price: Scan Speak Illuminator and Revelator (why two?), SB Acoustics, Seas and Purify among others.
On what criteria will I choose the driver. It will be paired with same kind of price 6-7-8 inch woofer and a tweeter.
I look for detail and precision. One room 17 by 30 and the other 15 by 17 feet.
I listen to music lower than 90 dB and mostly under 80 dB.
Thanks for your help.
There are many products at comparable price: Scan Speak Illuminator and Revelator (why two?), SB Acoustics, Seas and Purify among others.
On what criteria will I choose the driver. It will be paired with same kind of price 6-7-8 inch woofer and a tweeter.
I look for detail and precision. One room 17 by 30 and the other 15 by 17 feet.
I listen to music lower than 90 dB and mostly under 80 dB.
Thanks for your help.
Why Jeff ?
A box is a box. 8 inch internal, 68 litres. Very good woofers seem to be in the 6 to 8 inch range.
A box is a box. 8 inch internal, 68 litres. Very good woofers seem to be in the 6 to 8 inch range.
You really haven't given enough information for us to help you make a choice. These kinds of decisions often come down to budget, willingness to deal with crossover complexity, desired crossover slopes and frequencies, preferred breakup mode behavior, preferred cone/dome material, etc.
More detail retrieval often entails harder materials in the cone/dome and in the former, glue, etc. This also tends to cause large peaks in the breakup region, but more pistonic behavior across the intended use range. This makes crossover decisions more critical for these drivers.
More detail retrieval often entails harder materials in the cone/dome and in the former, glue, etc. This also tends to cause large peaks in the breakup region, but more pistonic behavior across the intended use range. This makes crossover decisions more critical for these drivers.
Revelator vs Illuminator thread
Long story short: a speaker design incorporates box shape. Iow the outer dimensions of the enclosure determine the response of the drivers and thus have impact on the crossover that has to be designed.
Apart from that, 68 litres internal seems pretty large for an 8" woofer to me. But that is not a real issue. And if I may ask, do you have any experience with the drivers mentioned? Nothing wrong with the brands, mind you, but you have a lot to choose from. Deciding on budget would be wise.
Apart from that, 68 litres internal seems pretty large for an 8" woofer to me. But that is not a real issue. And if I may ask, do you have any experience with the drivers mentioned? Nothing wrong with the brands, mind you, but you have a lot to choose from. Deciding on budget would be wise.
mattstat,
my budget is under 4000$ us.
my understanding is the simpler the crossover the better
slopes, breakup, materials are beyond my competence by a lot
This will be my first built from scratch. I will follow well known recepies.
Thanks!
I was thinking that i can reduce the volume by inside if less is required.
You say all three dimensions influence the cross-over design ?
I am a beginner ...
That is a valid approach, but again the things I talked about come into play. The simplest crossovers are typically used with drivers that have inherently flat response and smooth roll-offs. The modern trend in high resolution drivers is at odds with this approach. As an example, the Seas magnesium woofer below has a rising response trend through the midrange, very large peak at breakup, and inconsistent off-axis response around breakup. Those require careful use by rolling off before the uneven regions or using crossover complexity to correct the midrange rise and potentially to suppress the peak at breakup.
If by "well known recipe" you mean starting with a defined kit/build, that would be advisable if you want a more certain result in one shot and aren't interested in learning about a lot of details and methods at this point.
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...excel-w18e-001-e0018-7-magnesium-cone-woofer/
Assuming the existing cabinets are sound (no pun) and look nice, I'd look for a proved 8" 3-way project which uses that internal volume or smaller.
If you're buying new drivers, unless they fit the existing baffle, you'll need to make a new one.
You mention two room sizes - is this one pair for each room, or a speaker which is going to be used in each room?
Geoff
If you're buying new drivers, unless they fit the existing baffle, you'll need to make a new one.
You mention two room sizes - is this one pair for each room, or a speaker which is going to be used in each room?
Geoff
We all once were. So don't let anyone discourage you. But: if you want to start from scratch, invest in learning how to measure and how to simulate. And reserve a little part (few hundred $) of your budget for a measurement kit. So that, in the end, you know what you are doing and hearing. Otherwise you end up throwing a lot of money into an uncertain and very likely dissatisfying outcome.
That's how the new system handles links to other threads/posts (as far as I know).
After much time reading, researching and building, it's clear to me that you don't need 'high end' drivers to make great sounding speakers: you need good to very good quality drivers of course, but the crossover's the really important part. There are speakers like the TriTrix, Classix II and Caritas (the last of which I've not built) which use 'budget' but good quality drivers, but sound great due to excellent crossover design.
For example, have an optic at this 8" 3 way project. In $A, the driver cost would be around $400 per pair; the crossover parts, probably the same again depending on the spec.
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/SBA-861-PFCR.htm
Geoff
For example, have an optic at this 8" 3 way project. In $A, the driver cost would be around $400 per pair; the crossover parts, probably the same again depending on the spec.
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/SBA-861-PFCR.htm
Geoff
high end? hmm get one of this Dynaudio esotar 430 midrange, i will combine it with 650 midwoofer, my 24W100 just too big.
another midrange candidate will be : SS Elipticor mid which have been used in one of Troels project, or Accuton mid which is used by Vermouth studio monitor
another midrange candidate will be : SS Elipticor mid which have been used in one of Troels project, or Accuton mid which is used by Vermouth studio monitor
Attachments
Geoff Millar, two posts up, makes a good point...you don't "need" the highest end drivers to get great sound. However, if you go to Solen and look at what is on sale right now, there are some good options deals.
You probably want a 4" or 5-1/4" midrange. (100-150mm).
And there are some good 8" (~225mm) woofers and premium tweeters too.
Solen doesn't provide much information on box size, but if Madisound carries the same driver they usually provide some estimates of F3 in different box sizes. Take 10-25 L from your 68 L to allow for the midrange enclosure and bracing and see which drivers perform well in ~50L (~1.75 cubic feet).
You should be way under budget and to Markbakk's point in post #13 you can buy the necessary measurement gear.
This is all good if you plan to make this a hobby. If you think this will be your only DIY speaker, find an existing design and build it.
You probably want a 4" or 5-1/4" midrange. (100-150mm).
And there are some good 8" (~225mm) woofers and premium tweeters too.
Solen doesn't provide much information on box size, but if Madisound carries the same driver they usually provide some estimates of F3 in different box sizes. Take 10-25 L from your 68 L to allow for the midrange enclosure and bracing and see which drivers perform well in ~50L (~1.75 cubic feet).
You should be way under budget and to Markbakk's point in post #13 you can buy the necessary measurement gear.
This is all good if you plan to make this a hobby. If you think this will be your only DIY speaker, find an existing design and build it.
Well, I was taught to use only the driver's pistonic BW (Fs - VC dia. frequency), which allows 1st order XOs when polar response matched at these BW's mean.
Don't keep up with driver offerings, but look for very a flat response in the driver's pistonic BW above its upper mass corner (Fhm) where T/S theory peters out.
Fhm = 2*Fs/Qts'
Fs: Fhm*Qts'/2
(Qts'): (Qts) + any added series resistance (Rs)