This is my first project, i need some professional opinions about my parts because ive just started into this, these are all the parts ive ordered and i need some help with power supplying i will explain it in the second part.
Amplifier:
XH-A305 Bluetooth 5.0 Stereo TPA3116D2 50Wx2+100W 2.1
Input voltage: DC12-24V
Working Current: more than 3A
Crossovers 2x:
GHXAMP 60W 2 Way 2-4 Inch
Crossover frequency : 2800Hz-3200Hz
Frequency range: 50Hz-22000Hz
2x Fullrange:
Sony 1,65 inch 12.5w 4 ohm
These are good, but i dont know the sensivity and freq range.
they were from a good sony loudspeaker.
Tweeters 2x:
AIYIMA 4 ohm 80W 1.5 Inch 25Core Fiber Membrane, Rubidium Magnetic
Frequency range: 1.5k-20kHz
Sensitivity: 93dB
Subwooofer 1x:
GHXAMP 4ohm 40W 3 INCH
Frequency Range：60Hz-20KHz
Sensitivity: 90db
Passive Radiators:
1x 3inch for subwoofer
2x 1.8 inch for sony's
Power:
My parts:
1- Self locking 24v blue button
2- Latching blue switch AC 250V/15A 125V/20A
3- 6S Feiyang balance function protection board
4- Voltmeter panel DC 2.5-30V Blue
5- 6S Lithium battery capacity indicator
1st question: so lets say im supplying 23 volts to my amp, if no woofer is connected, am i damaging and killing it? if half of the woofers are connected am i damaging my woofers because of the more amount of power then needed? lastly if i dont connect anything to my subwoofer what happens to those bass signals? would they get back to full range speakers? or they would just disappear?
2nd questions: This would work?
As you can see im thinking about supplying it with 6 lithium batteries in series and charge them with a laptop charger, the laptop charger i have is:
AC INPUT: 100-240 v - 3.5A 50-60 Hz
DC OUTPUT: 19 V --- 11.8 A 230 W
3rd question:
Lastly about the batteries, i have 3x lg 2400mah and 2x 2100mah batteries, as far as i can understand, i need same mah same brand batteries? so i cant get 3 more 2400 mah random brand batteries and stick them in with those lg's?
Amplifier:
XH-A305 Bluetooth 5.0 Stereo TPA3116D2 50Wx2+100W 2.1
Input voltage: DC12-24V
Working Current: more than 3A
Crossovers 2x:
GHXAMP 60W 2 Way 2-4 Inch
Crossover frequency : 2800Hz-3200Hz
Frequency range: 50Hz-22000Hz
2x Fullrange:
Sony 1,65 inch 12.5w 4 ohm
These are good, but i dont know the sensivity and freq range.
they were from a good sony loudspeaker.
Tweeters 2x:
AIYIMA 4 ohm 80W 1.5 Inch 25Core Fiber Membrane, Rubidium Magnetic
Frequency range: 1.5k-20kHz
Sensitivity: 93dB
Subwooofer 1x:
GHXAMP 4ohm 40W 3 INCH
Frequency Range：60Hz-20KHz
Sensitivity: 90db
Passive Radiators:
1x 3inch for subwoofer
2x 1.8 inch for sony's
Power:
My parts:
1- Self locking 24v blue button
2- Latching blue switch AC 250V/15A 125V/20A
3- 6S Feiyang balance function protection board
4- Voltmeter panel DC 2.5-30V Blue
5- 6S Lithium battery capacity indicator
1st question: so lets say im supplying 23 volts to my amp, if no woofer is connected, am i damaging and killing it? if half of the woofers are connected am i damaging my woofers because of the more amount of power then needed? lastly if i dont connect anything to my subwoofer what happens to those bass signals? would they get back to full range speakers? or they would just disappear?
2nd questions: This would work?
As you can see im thinking about supplying it with 6 lithium batteries in series and charge them with a laptop charger, the laptop charger i have is:
AC INPUT: 100-240 v - 3.5A 50-60 Hz
DC OUTPUT: 19 V --- 11.8 A 230 W
3rd question:
Lastly about the batteries, i have 3x lg 2400mah and 2x 2100mah batteries, as far as i can understand, i need same mah same brand batteries? so i cant get 3 more 2400 mah random brand batteries and stick them in with those lg's?
Hi, no PRs for the 1.65" speakers, as they are filtered and don't need any (bass reinforcement)
Theoretically, a tiny speaker doesn't need a tweeter, either, 'cos it can be compared to a tweeter!
If you have some more speakers around, you can go bigger. Like 3-4" mid-bass, 5-6" subwoofer, and tweeters. Keep in mind that the pre-made crossover that you have must be specified for the targeted Z ( impedance, Ohm-Ω )which is 4Ω OR 8 Ω.
Hi, no PRs for the 1.65" speakers, as they are filtered and don't need any (bass reinforcement)
Theoretically, a tiny speaker doesn't need a tweeter, either, 'cos it can be compared to a tweeter!
If you have some more speakers around, you can go bigger. Like 3-4" mid-bass, 5-6" subwoofer, and tweeters. Keep in mind that the pre-made crossover that you have must be specified for the targeted Z ( impedance, Ohm-Ω )which is 4Ω OR 8 Ω.
Thank you, i got those tiny speakers from a srs-xb20 which is 20hz to 20000Hz each, i thin they are quite good, the original boombox had them paired with 2 passive radiators, that is why i though about pairing each of them with their own radiators and yes cross over supports 4ohm
Ah yes that makes sense, im usually listening to beatles and other old songs, why would you suggest that i skip tweeters?
The 1.65" sony drivers are probably able to output decent highs. Did they have or need tweeters in the original speaker?
@1 not connecting a sub won't affect the main speaker output.
@2 yes with a constant current (CC) voltage booster, as you need to raise the voltage (~6x4.1= 24.6V) and have limit the current. A 1A power supply should be enough.
@3 cells in series need to be similar in capacity and internal resistance; best is to use 6 new cells or tested used.
Why are you changing the bms?
The balancing function on cheap bms-ses does work by draining the cells which are full and often can not dissipate much heat and only balance when the battery pack is fully charged. Which is to much for long term use; li-ion lives much longer at 3.85V.
Recently there are active balancing boards that always balance the cells, which you add to a simple (voltage limiting) bms.
This way you should be able to use your mix of (old) batteries and/or charge to only 23V or 24V = 3.85/4V per cell and keep them balanced.
Don't use (old) cells which discharge by themselves as they will drain all cells, limit the whole packs performance and create heat.
@1 not connecting a sub won't affect the main speaker output.
@2 yes with a constant current (CC) voltage booster, as you need to raise the voltage (~6x4.1= 24.6V) and have limit the current. A 1A power supply should be enough.
@3 cells in series need to be similar in capacity and internal resistance; best is to use 6 new cells or tested used.
Why are you changing the bms?
The balancing function on cheap bms-ses does work by draining the cells which are full and often can not dissipate much heat and only balance when the battery pack is fully charged. Which is to much for long term use; li-ion lives much longer at 3.85V.
Recently there are active balancing boards that always balance the cells, which you add to a simple (voltage limiting) bms.
This way you should be able to use your mix of (old) batteries and/or charge to only 23V or 24V = 3.85/4V per cell and keep them balanced.
Don't use (old) cells which discharge by themselves as they will drain all cells, limit the whole packs performance and create heat.
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@1 but doesnt it split he bass signals to sub output? so if no sub is connected those signals get sent to normal speakers? and what if im pushing 20v while only small speakers connected? that would be harming?
@3 oh, seems like i was doing tons of things wrong.. this is the board ive ordered: 6s board
, so i need a bms to wire it up with?? what would you suggest?
@1 On this board the subwoofer out has a low pass (high cut) going to the subwoofer amp.
But probably has no hi pass (low cut) filter for the main/top speakers. So there is probably a full range signal going to mains/top amp. The small drivers need a low cut or won't play loud without distortion as they try to play bass and reach their maximum excursion very fast.
Only board I know with a (switchable) high pass for the main speakers is this one: TPA3116 2.1 12-24V 50W+50W+100W Amplifier Board Digital Audio Super Bass Speaker 767775830347 | eBay I have 2 of them and they work great.
@2 Yes, you need a bms to protect against over voltage and current and under voltage. AFAIK This balance board only balances if you fully charge the pack. The bms in post 1 and other cheap ones often have a similar balancing circuit.
Edit: Why don't you run it at 3S / 12v? At 1/4 max output power is enough for the small drivers.
Edit2: a 1s battery indicator connected to the weakest cell in the pack will be a better indicator then a 3s/6s model, but it needs a switch so it doesn't drain the single cell to much.
But probably has no hi pass (low cut) filter for the main/top speakers. So there is probably a full range signal going to mains/top amp. The small drivers need a low cut or won't play loud without distortion as they try to play bass and reach their maximum excursion very fast.
Only board I know with a (switchable) high pass for the main speakers is this one: TPA3116 2.1 12-24V 50W+50W+100W Amplifier Board Digital Audio Super Bass Speaker 767775830347 | eBay I have 2 of them and they work great.
@2 Yes, you need a bms to protect against over voltage and current and under voltage. AFAIK This balance board only balances if you fully charge the pack. The bms in post 1 and other cheap ones often have a similar balancing circuit.
Edit: Why don't you run it at 3S / 12v? At 1/4 max output power is enough for the small drivers.
Edit2: a 1s battery indicator connected to the weakest cell in the pack will be a better indicator then a 3s/6s model, but it needs a switch so it doesn't drain the single cell to much.
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Is this useless or can i hook it up with a bms? Can you please link me some proper bms or can i use powerbank materials? And do you thing using that notebook charger is a good idea?
They are used to upgrade a bms without balancing function. But the active balancing circuits are better, especially if you don't charge it fully every now and then so it can balance like with solar or if you use a power adapter with cell voltage @~4V.
from the circuit you ordered:
" The balance board is suitable for the li-ion battery pack BMS WHICH without balance function,so as to equalizing charge lithium battery charge function, make the battery pack each series charge at the same time.
Note:The balancing board must need BMS to use together,and the BMS is without balancing function"
Anything with bms in it's name should be ok, to use as a bms.
from the circuit you ordered:
" The balance board is suitable for the li-ion battery pack BMS WHICH without balance function,so as to equalizing charge lithium battery charge function, make the battery pack each series charge at the same time.
Note:The balancing board must need BMS to use together,and the BMS is without balancing function"
Anything with bms in it's name should be ok, to use as a bms.
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They are used to upgrade a bms without balancing function. But the active balancing circuits are better, especially if you don't charge it fully every now and then so it can balance like with solar or if you use a power adapter with cell voltage @~4V.
from the circuit you ordered:
" The balance board is suitable for the li-ion battery pack BMS WHICH without balance function,so as to equalizing charge lithium battery charge function, make the battery pack each series charge at the same time.
Note:The balancing board must need BMS to use together,and the BMS is without balancing function"
Anything with bms in it's name should be ok, to use as a bms.
okey here is my idea, i will do 6 TP4056's in paralel and i will use the new TP4056's which has current protection and also they can give output while getting charged, i dont think i need this balance board anymore right?
this is the "TP4056"s
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