The real point is if the tweeter has ferrofluid or not. Stock D2010 can have it or not depending on the model (8513 or 8511).
Ralf
I will send the drivers to this laboratory:
https://www.audioconika.it/
they can take measurements, check specifications and repair them in every part if needed.it is not my intention to replace the drivers.
Seems the midwoof is stock and not oem spec.
Worth to buy a new pair if fabricated yet as Markbak advice? Less expensive than a laboratory imo.
Seems rhis tweeter was pulled out already or Proac guys sid not know to make clean solder.
Worth to buy a new pair if fabricated yet as Markbak advice? Less expensive than a laboratory imo.
Seems rhis tweeter was pulled out already or Proac guys sid not know to make clean solder.
i don't know, these are 32 years old...
some repairs may have been done in the past, but they look like original parts to me
scan speak d2010 and seas p11rcy
Defeats the DIY purpose a bit!
Unless these are going to be your main speakers and you have some kind of emotional attachment to them, then I think spending a lot on them is a waste of money!
Sure they are 30 years old, and I do like to restore old hifi stuff, but no matter what they will never be able to beat some newer speakers!
The mid-woofers can be cleaned and the surround could probably be treated to soften up. I've read people using Glycerol ..... search the web ....
If you want to repair speakers the best first tool is to get yourself a measurement mic. and measure with REW to see if there is anything really bad to see.
I have restored a speaker with a very similar tweeter
http://www.sensibleaudio.dk/2019/04/22/restoring-avance-concrete-180/
And did nothing to it ... still works fine .... so not sure why you would buy new tweeters or even sent them for repair.
I don't want to buy new speakers,i want to restore and enjoy these speaakers.
I was just asking for information on how to do it.
a pair of new tweeters costs 160 euros, and the midwoofers are no longer in production. If I change them, I would probably spend a lot more than repairing them (assuming it is necessary to do so ...) and "modify" the original project.
Since the Kurt Müller surrounds for the P11RCY are still delivered, I wouldn’t know why not to restore the woofers. If they are faulty at all. I exchanged them on P14’s with the PP cone, glue still holds and got them pretty well back to specs. The D2010 is, well, another story. IIRC when faulty, those were replaced with new ones back then.
i think that without a measurement in a lab no one can know if the drevers are ok or out of specification.
Luca, I don't recall you saying at any stage in this thread that you were unhappy with the sound of your speakers.
If the drivers were faulty you would be sure to know.
So, go ahead and replace the 80uF capacitor just for the sake of peace of mind.
If the drivers were faulty you would be sure to know.
So, go ahead and replace the 80uF capacitor just for the sake of peace of mind.
...and no lab will say to you how the Qm is divided between the spider and the sutround rubber.
But we know for sure the bass XO has moved after 30 years of the lythic.. At least my experience at having refurbishing Sonus Faber, Kef ref serie, etc.
But we know for sure the bass XO has moved after 30 years of the lythic.. At least my experience at having refurbishing Sonus Faber, Kef ref serie, etc.
....damit, sorry I have mistaken...me and math you know !
1 x 80 is 80 . 😗
Btw just checked an alcap that had 35 years... drifted plus 10 % ... that is the serie resistance that suffers the most
Btw is there marked LL or not on the Alcap ?
