Hello all,
I am very interested in building a pair of clones after reading through all the threads on this forums and some external sites describing the contruction of these speakers. There are however some details I'd like to get cleared up:
1. Where do you mount the crossover, is the palcing critical? If the crossover is to be placed outside of the cabinet whihc is my ideal positioning what would be the best way to do this?
2. The primary internal brace described at the diy proac site (geocities), where should this be placed. I am guessing this positioning to be fairly critical since the introduction of an extra wall may change the acoustic proporties of the cabinet.
3. Many people have discussed how they have changed parts within the speaker of building it, I was wondering how you came aobut doing this, ie having a removable panel while keeping an airtight seal.
Sorry about the bad question, I'm a newcomer to the art of speaker building and any help, espcially pictures would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
I am very interested in building a pair of clones after reading through all the threads on this forums and some external sites describing the contruction of these speakers. There are however some details I'd like to get cleared up:
1. Where do you mount the crossover, is the palcing critical? If the crossover is to be placed outside of the cabinet whihc is my ideal positioning what would be the best way to do this?
2. The primary internal brace described at the diy proac site (geocities), where should this be placed. I am guessing this positioning to be fairly critical since the introduction of an extra wall may change the acoustic proporties of the cabinet.
3. Many people have discussed how they have changed parts within the speaker of building it, I was wondering how you came aobut doing this, ie having a removable panel while keeping an airtight seal.
Sorry about the bad question, I'm a newcomer to the art of speaker building and any help, espcially pictures would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
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Joined 2003
A1:
Please see the FAQ on the original DIY ProAc Response 2.5 website.
A2:
Please see the FAQ on the original DIY ProAc Response 2.5 website.
A3:
There seems to be a few options here:
With a completely sealed box the only option to access the parts is through the woofer cutout. (ie. unscrew the woofer, and borrow someone's very long arms 😱 )
Or you can modify the rear panel to have a "door" or swing panel.
If you place your XO close to these openings, it will be a simply to make XO modifications. However it may still be difficult to add/remove the lining and stuffing.
On my cabinet all panels are glued and screwed, except the back panel, which uses only screws. It will be difficult to ensure an airtight seal, but any change or tweak is easy. Then after I'm satisfied I will glue and screw.
I will use an external crossover, perhaps mounted exteriorly on the back panel, or in a separate wooden box.
Please see the FAQ on the original DIY ProAc Response 2.5 website.
A2:
Please see the FAQ on the original DIY ProAc Response 2.5 website.
A3:
There seems to be a few options here:
With a completely sealed box the only option to access the parts is through the woofer cutout. (ie. unscrew the woofer, and borrow someone's very long arms 😱 )
Or you can modify the rear panel to have a "door" or swing panel.
If you place your XO close to these openings, it will be a simply to make XO modifications. However it may still be difficult to add/remove the lining and stuffing.
On my cabinet all panels are glued and screwed, except the back panel, which uses only screws. It will be difficult to ensure an airtight seal, but any change or tweak is easy. Then after I'm satisfied I will glue and screw.
I will use an external crossover, perhaps mounted exteriorly on the back panel, or in a separate wooden box.
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