Having been asked if I could extend both the RCA and ground cables from the stock length of maybe <1.5M to 2M or so, looked to see if it would be practicl to remove the original cables and replace with new ones, but this is impracitcal without dismantling the arm, so adding extesion cables is the only way to go, but the added capacitance may affect the frequency response towards the upper end. Personally I don't beleive this will be too noticeable, but is there any simple way to compensate for this? An extra0.5 metres of cable will probably add around 50f. Cartidge, by the way, is an Ortofon, not sure what model. TT will be used with a Sony Amplifier.
Incidentally is there a better way to refit the PU Arm to the deck's baseboard than using Self-Tapping Screws? I'm unable toreuse the original M3 screws because I can see no way to refit the loose nuts with which they were fastened, as the metal base plate cannot, as far as I can see, be removed?
Incidentally is there a better way to refit the PU Arm to the deck's baseboard than using Self-Tapping Screws? I'm unable toreuse the original M3 screws because I can see no way to refit the loose nuts with which they were fastened, as the metal base plate cannot, as far as I can see, be removed?
I wonder if you were to buy threaded inserts, you could use the original screws. I have used them (not 3mm admittedly) for the bottom of speakers that I build. They work very well and will last forever. You need to be accurate with placement.
Regards John L.
Regards John L.
Try to rearrange the amp so the phono inputs are to the right of (or below) the phono unit.
Otherwise use an extender cable.
John, I have thought about using some threaded inserts, and in fact have some 4BA ones somewhere, so could either use those (with 4BA Screws of course ) or obtain some of the correct thread. I realose that the inserts need to be placed accurately, but as the holes are pre-drilled, this shouldn't be a problem.. My other thought was to use spire nuts to retain the self-tapping screws.
As the Pro-ject isn't mine and the owner says he is unable to rearrange his system, an extension cable is the only option left (he doesn't want to use an outboard MM Preamp either!) Regarding the -3dB shift I doubt whether this would be a problem.
As the Pro-ject isn't mine and the owner says he is unable to rearrange his system, an extension cable is the only option left (he doesn't want to use an outboard MM Preamp either!) Regarding the -3dB shift I doubt whether this would be a problem.
You could always reduce the phono input loading capacitor in the Sony amplifier to compensate if it is a problem.
I bought a Pro-ject P0.5 (P1 with cheaper cartridge) back around 1992 - my first "separates" system. Rumble was so bad (google it - a known problem) that I couldn't understand why folk thought vinyl was ok. I have recently dismantled it and retained the platter only for my own build turntable. The original bearing had an unbelievable amount of play - not wear. However, I cannot see why tonearm screws/nuts should be inaccessible.
I bought a Pro-ject P0.5 (P1 with cheaper cartridge) back around 1992 - my first "separates" system. Rumble was so bad (google it - a known problem) that I couldn't understand why folk thought vinyl was ok. I have recently dismantled it and retained the platter only for my own build turntable. The original bearing had an unbelievable amount of play - not wear. However, I cannot see why tonearm screws/nuts should be inaccessible.
At the moment I don't have access to the Amplifier with which the P1 is to be used, but will try it out with my Sony TA-D505, firstly without extension cables, then with them to see if, to my ears, there is any audible difference. As to the screws, did my original post not make clear the fact that i cannot get access to the underside of the baseboard in order to screw on the nuts because the metal plate on the underside isn't easily removable? I have taken some photos of the P1 deck, including the underside, but am having problems with Samsung Intelli-Studio at the moment, so, although I've uploaded them to the computer, I cannot post them anywhere, or email them to anyone. They are also on Microsoft Edge, but for some reason I can't email them from there either!
Photos always help.
Guess construction may have changed over the years.
Mine had plastic covers & easy to remove. May have involved prising off a star clip but can't be sure now.
Guess construction may have changed over the years.
Mine had plastic covers & easy to remove. May have involved prising off a star clip but can't be sure now.
REf; Pro-ject P1 Turntable
I have now taken some photographs of the P1 Deck on my rather cluttered workbench, so hopefully these will help. The fourth picture shows the Star Clip hoding the on-off switch actuator in place, to the left of the cable entry point. If this can be removed, the bottom metal plate can then be removed to gain access to the undeside of the PU arm mounting holes so that the nuts involved can be refitted.
I think this is an European market model, since it is marked 220vAC 50Hz, as UK mains is nominally 230v (Haven't measured miy supply recently, but it was around 240v the last time I did)
I have now taken some photographs of the P1 Deck on my rather cluttered workbench, so hopefully these will help. The fourth picture shows the Star Clip hoding the on-off switch actuator in place, to the left of the cable entry point. If this can be removed, the bottom metal plate can then be removed to gain access to the undeside of the PU arm mounting holes so that the nuts involved can be refitted.
I think this is an European market model, since it is marked 220vAC 50Hz, as UK mains is nominally 230v (Haven't measured miy supply recently, but it was around 240v the last time I did)
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Yes, gently prise off - screwdriver, kitchen knife, whatever.
It is common for UK aimed stuff to be marked for 220v nominal.
The decks suffer abominable 50hz rumble from the motor.
There is an upgrade kit for motor mounting -
https://www.henleydesigns.co.uk/assets/_managed/product/files/SEUpgradeKitInstallationGuide1.pdf
Not tried it, as I say I cannibalized mine to make a new TT.
It is common for UK aimed stuff to be marked for 220v nominal.
The decks suffer abominable 50hz rumble from the motor.
There is an upgrade kit for motor mounting -
https://www.henleydesigns.co.uk/assets/_managed/product/files/SEUpgradeKitInstallationGuide1.pdf
Not tried it, as I say I cannibalized mine to make a new TT.
Thanks for that tip, russc. As to the Upgrade-it 's no doubt a good idea, but I'll listen to the TT in it's unmodified form first. It's not my turntable, so I'll havre to check with the owner if he wants to pay for the cost of the upgrade before ordering that kit.
Having recently listened to several records, both 12" & 7" diameter, of both speeds, and various types of music, and also played records with the volume control of the associated amplifer turned to minimum, I cannot detect any 50Hz hum or any rumble, so either this turntable has already been upgraded, or it doesn't suffer from the problems described in post #10 unless these take some time (more than about 1 hour) to materialise.
In the end I fitted a pair of good quality RCa Leads via two gold plated couplers, and extende the earth lead by about 1.5Metres, checked out the setup with my workshop test receiver (a 40 years old Wharfedale Linton) and it all worked perfectly. The Pro-ject TT has been back with it's owner for about two weeks now, and he reports that it's all satisfactory, so all's well that ends well!
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