Easyest toner transfer!
Dorkus: At first I had the same problem with toner transfer; simply couldn't transfer an even layer on my pcb's- needed lots of touch-up. But reading thru the forum (dont remember the thread) I read that someone used glossy paper. Used it my self (80lbs. glossy paper) and works incredebly well. Simply iron on the board, let cool, immerge in water and when paper soaked slowly remove paper! and VOILA!
I encourage everyone to try this!
-Simon
Dorkus: At first I had the same problem with toner transfer; simply couldn't transfer an even layer on my pcb's- needed lots of touch-up. But reading thru the forum (dont remember the thread) I read that someone used glossy paper. Used it my self (80lbs. glossy paper) and works incredebly well. Simply iron on the board, let cool, immerge in water and when paper soaked slowly remove paper! and VOILA!
I encourage everyone to try this!
-Simon
cool simon, i will try that. sounds a lot cheaper than that overpriced "toner transfer" paper too. 😛
marc
marc
Talk about ripoff
Never understood what was SO special about their magical ($$$) transfer paper!? ANYONE know pls tell me!
Marc: Never tryed it with SMT but if you deside to create your "diyAudio.com preamp project" boards let us know how it's going!
-SImon
Never understood what was SO special about their magical ($$$) transfer paper!? ANYONE know pls tell me!
Marc: Never tryed it with SMT but if you deside to create your "diyAudio.com preamp project" boards let us know how it's going!
-SImon
Don't do it!
Just want to let other newbies like myself know that do not use the mitre saw just came out of the box to trim the PCB. I have just done that last weekend. Now the plastic guard of saw platform where the saw blade goes thru is damaged. I count myself lucky that I still have all my fingers and hand after the PCB is destroyed and the saw is damaged. The saw came with a ripping action blade saw that I found out later. Now I use a small teeth metal hand saw to trim, so the PCB does not look that good.
May be we should have a new thread of don't dos.
Chris
P.S. I was trying to trim a 5X4 inches to 3X3 inches PCB, see how close my fingers was to the saw blade!!!!
Just want to let other newbies like myself know that do not use the mitre saw just came out of the box to trim the PCB. I have just done that last weekend. Now the plastic guard of saw platform where the saw blade goes thru is damaged. I count myself lucky that I still have all my fingers and hand after the PCB is destroyed and the saw is damaged. The saw came with a ripping action blade saw that I found out later. Now I use a small teeth metal hand saw to trim, so the PCB does not look that good.
May be we should have a new thread of don't dos.
Chris
P.S. I was trying to trim a 5X4 inches to 3X3 inches PCB, see how close my fingers was to the saw blade!!!!
yeah, trying to cut small PCBs with a mitre saw and your hands is not so cool... there's a bigger chance the saw will go throuh your hand than your PCB. chris, you're right, you're lucky you didn't lose a finger there! what were you thinking trying to cut something so small and brittle? 😛
you're better off scoring it with a blade or something and snapping it off, though this is very tedious and often ineffective with some types of boards, particularly double-sided. you can also use a hacksaw or something, but this usually gives a messy cut. whatever you do you should try to clamp the board down to something so you don't have to hold it with your hands, which is very dangerous.
you're better off scoring it with a blade or something and snapping it off, though this is very tedious and often ineffective with some types of boards, particularly double-sided. you can also use a hacksaw or something, but this usually gives a messy cut. whatever you do you should try to clamp the board down to something so you don't have to hold it with your hands, which is very dangerous.
An abrasive cut-off wheel in a table, chop or radial arm saw works great. Don't use a regular carbide blade even if it is a 60 or 80 toother unless you want to say goodbye to the very sharp edge.
PCBs with an old plotter
I plot my designs on an old Graphtec MP4400 flat-bed plotter I found lying in somebody's office, about to be sent to the junk-yard. I use a Staedtler-318 marker mounted on one of the plotter's scooped-out pen, the trimmed & cleaned copper-clad taped to the bed. Results are close to what I used to get from a professional service outlet. Never tried a double-sided, though!
I plot my designs on an old Graphtec MP4400 flat-bed plotter I found lying in somebody's office, about to be sent to the junk-yard. I use a Staedtler-318 marker mounted on one of the plotter's scooped-out pen, the trimmed & cleaned copper-clad taped to the bed. Results are close to what I used to get from a professional service outlet. Never tried a double-sided, though!
an interesting protoboard
I saw that a couple of the US distributors are carrying SMT adapter boards and protoboards from Bellin Dynamic Systems, including snap apart SOIC and TSOP adapters. http://www.beldynsys.com/500.pdf
I saw that a couple of the US distributors are carrying SMT adapter boards and protoboards from Bellin Dynamic Systems, including snap apart SOIC and TSOP adapters. http://www.beldynsys.com/500.pdf
You can cut PCBs all day long with a Freud non-ferrous 10" carbide blade (Home Depot-$53) in a table saw without any worries. Very smooooth. Will also work in your chop saw for aluminum for your chassis. I splurged and bought a Tenryu 14" Aluma-cut for my metal chop saw. Cuts like "butta". 
I definitely recommended a Zero Clearance insert or similar on your tablesaw to help prevent the smaller piece falling in along the blade and getting kicked back in your chest.
I definitely recommended a Zero Clearance insert or similar on your tablesaw to help prevent the smaller piece falling in along the blade and getting kicked back in your chest.
isn't that why you use a kickback protector?
Yeah, I know it's probably the first thing to go (it's usually not on my contractor saw, thus I am also culpable) but it is there for a reason.
I find that a carbide tipped panel cutting blade or a carbide combo blade is (are?) satisfactory. My panel cutting blade is Freud.
Yeah, I know it's probably the first thing to go (it's usually not on my contractor saw, thus I am also culpable) but it is there for a reason.
I find that a carbide tipped panel cutting blade or a carbide combo blade is (are?) satisfactory. My panel cutting blade is Freud.
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