For those who recommended the OP buy speakers... Please read his post..."That's why I want to start building my own audio gear"
an advice is an advice 😉 Do better than critisism !
(reallity check, my dear... and it is for a friend, so trade-offs are less easy... of course you can steal a router and wood, then there are just the drivers and filter parts to purchase. Btw a flat pack which is still diy, was advised). And I think the conclusion is wrong, you have second hand at that price you hardly be able to do the same and also brandnew cheap stuff not bad at all. The Behringer Genelec clone comes to mind and you still can diy it for better sound, look for Maxheadroom thread, please.
Those
(reallity check, my dear... and it is for a friend, so trade-offs are less easy... of course you can steal a router and wood, then there are just the drivers and filter parts to purchase. Btw a flat pack which is still diy, was advised). And I think the conclusion is wrong, you have second hand at that price you hardly be able to do the same and also brandnew cheap stuff not bad at all. The Behringer Genelec clone comes to mind and you still can diy it for better sound, look for Maxheadroom thread, please.
Those
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The CHN-110 i mentioned are 60€ each leaving 130€ for boxes. As moondog suggests, get creative.
Sealed 10-12 litres gives low 40s anechoic, you could port it to get a bit more emphais in the upperbass. Optimum miniOnken looks to be about 30 litres, a standard reflex say 35 litres. Waxx’s ML-TL or Scott’s Pensil (another ML-TL) will be harder as the shape is important, not just teh volume.
Lots of things you can repurpose. Ikea is a common source, but pipes, buckets… i am recycling some of the drawers my dad made 40 years ago (with ply >50 years old, so not bad quality.
A bunch of Scott’s plans here (reflex, ML-Voigt, Pensil): https://www.markaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/CHN110-detail-box-plans.pdf
dave
I've just read thought the posts. Nobody has suggested buying speakers and a kit is still DIY and you can learn a lot though building a kits.
But if the OP found a set of used boxes cheap we could assist with advice on making them a bit [ or maybe even a lot] better
All in all, the perimeter of the 250 euros and DIY was not very precise into what's included or not.
Yet, i think each poster contributed to different options and the original poster will be able to choose, depending on having access or not to free wood / tools or PVC tube or else.
That was/is an interesting discussion.
Personnaly, having bought a flat pack, i was just happy that a professionnal cut them precisely and with added features to be able to have an acceptable finish for a first build, but that was just me. (Paint is also important to consider)
Take care.
Yet, i think each poster contributed to different options and the original poster will be able to choose, depending on having access or not to free wood / tools or PVC tube or else.
That was/is an interesting discussion.
Personnaly, having bought a flat pack, i was just happy that a professionnal cut them precisely and with added features to be able to have an acceptable finish for a first build, but that was just me. (Paint is also important to consider)
Take care.
I sourced tools at Lidl supermarket all belgiums are aware. For 200 I had a router and a table saw plus a 58 teeth disc. At Leroy Merlin they often sell for few some piece of mdf or ligth poplar ply...cuts left.
However it is not that easy to make a ciircular jig diy tjat still able to make holes for tweeters. I finished to purchase a millecraft brand one I am happy with.
I still think for a first diy that will be for someone else than the ready to glue kit is the way to go though.
I and others already advised the cheap and good overnigth sensation by Paul Carmody.
The most difficult thing for most of us is the cabinets work...
However it is not that easy to make a ciircular jig diy tjat still able to make holes for tweeters. I finished to purchase a millecraft brand one I am happy with.
I still think for a first diy that will be for someone else than the ready to glue kit is the way to go though.
I and others already advised the cheap and good overnigth sensation by Paul Carmody.
The most difficult thing for most of us is the cabinets work...
Tricky because of what looks like a false premise. For a one off DIY project at the budget end the parts, consumables, tools, etc... will cost significantly more than a competently designed mass produced in Asia active 2 way speaker. If you know what you are doing in the second hand market (i.e. ignoring the vintage speakers with strong audiophile appeal and high prices) there is even more value there albeit with more risk.
Do you want to use this to grow a hobby interest or is it a one off? If the latter then I would suggest buying new or secondhand and if the former being a bit more realistic about the costs and benefits. Do you want to have a stab at designing, to follow an existing design while learning a bit about DIY construction or to assemble an existing kit?
(So it's bit of a reply for all the messages)
Now that you point it out, I indeed didn't gave you enough informations.
So firstly, I already have all the tool needed and in case of a problem, I have a carpenter friend that works for a company that has a professional woodshop (so he can always help if needed). As for the wood, I can buy some directly trough him, so it may be a little cheaper, but I'm not expecting much. Also, the finishes are an option, If it's a bit rough it's ok. We can always paint and varnish them later on. For the moment he just needs a good working speaker.
Now even if a kit would maybe be the best option, I still would prefer to make them from nothing. I talked with my friend and he is hyped about the project, so it would be a fun little activity for us. And as Andy19191 mentioned, this is not a one off. I personally would like to make my next speakers myself (had in mind a pair of Onken 360L with a multicell horn (for that I'll clearly need my carpenter friend help)). And not gonna lie, I use this project as a introduction into building speakers. So I'm trying to learn from my mistakes throughout this project, before beginning a more consequent project.
Also, because it's my friend's money, I don't want to play to much around with designing and would mainly like to follow an already existing design. I'll maybe trying later on designing my own speakers with my own money.
And once more, thanks so much for all your support!!!
http://www.audioexcite.com/?page_id=985
http://speakerdesignworks.com/index_page_2.html
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/bookshelf-speakers
http://www.zaphaudio.com/
https://www.milescraft.com/product/circleguidekit/ : I bougth mine here in France. Better than all the Aliexpress stuffs.
Compacbel.be or toutlehautparleur.com as soundimports comes to mind where you are to source drivers and things needed around.
http://speakerdesignworks.com/index_page_2.html
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/bookshelf-speakers
http://www.zaphaudio.com/
https://www.milescraft.com/product/circleguidekit/ : I bougth mine here in France. Better than all the Aliexpress stuffs.
Compacbel.be or toutlehautparleur.com as soundimports comes to mind where you are to source drivers and things needed around.
As well :
Planet10 advised a one way FR, which is surely a good idea to beginn one's hifi journey, even more if you consider such little room.
Here also wolfteeth member shown nice designs with Peereless drivers which are godd drivers QP wise.
Xrq971 has a 2 ways sealed or transmission line, the first willl do rigth in such 4x4 room imho. one driver in it goes full range from 300 to the treble, the cheaper version without the ScanSpeak is the one I think about for your budget and quality is very close.
Do not forgett if no shelves in the room than a bookshelf needs a support too that must be included in the total cost.
Planet10 advised a one way FR, which is surely a good idea to beginn one's hifi journey, even more if you consider such little room.
Here also wolfteeth member shown nice designs with Peereless drivers which are godd drivers QP wise.
Xrq971 has a 2 ways sealed or transmission line, the first willl do rigth in such 4x4 room imho. one driver in it goes full range from 300 to the treble, the cheaper version without the ScanSpeak is the one I think about for your budget and quality is very close.
Do not forgett if no shelves in the room than a bookshelf needs a support too that must be included in the total cost.
If you like more funny project, also could be used for little party with friends, you can go for
Visaton BG 20 in "Sonnenschein" 20L sealed enclosure.
Two Coils 1,8mH; 0,18 Ohm + 15 Ohm 20W MOX resistor ( in parallel + rail serial)...to flatten the middle frequenzies.
https://www.lautsprechershop.de/hifi/sonnenschein_en.htm
You can run they first without baffles to get impressions...i have done so for 1 week for burn in.
If you like build the cases, fill dumping as advised
https://www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/OffersOfProduct/606645_-bg-20-visaton.html
Later build, or if you have add, a subwoofer.
I have build one with punsh and steam, not nessesary, but who knows...
It is MIVOC AWM 124 that should work in horns and it does for my taste.
http://www.audio-constructor.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3159
It is driven by Monacor IMG Stage Line SAM 300 D
There are possibel other options too.
https://www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/OffersOfProduct/4654804_-sam-200-d-monacor.html
The sub can also be placed as a table.
The enclosure is the Cubo 12
https://www.freespeakerplans.com/plans/14-plans/basscab/14-cubo-12
All parts are glued and for safty srewed.
Visaton BG 20 in "Sonnenschein" 20L sealed enclosure.
Two Coils 1,8mH; 0,18 Ohm + 15 Ohm 20W MOX resistor ( in parallel + rail serial)...to flatten the middle frequenzies.
https://www.lautsprechershop.de/hifi/sonnenschein_en.htm
You can run they first without baffles to get impressions...i have done so for 1 week for burn in.
If you like build the cases, fill dumping as advised
https://www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/OffersOfProduct/606645_-bg-20-visaton.html
Later build, or if you have add, a subwoofer.
I have build one with punsh and steam, not nessesary, but who knows...
It is MIVOC AWM 124 that should work in horns and it does for my taste.
http://www.audio-constructor.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3159
It is driven by Monacor IMG Stage Line SAM 300 D
There are possibel other options too.
https://www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/OffersOfProduct/4654804_-sam-200-d-monacor.html
The sub can also be placed as a table.
The enclosure is the Cubo 12
https://www.freespeakerplans.com/plans/14-plans/basscab/14-cubo-12
All parts are glued and for safty srewed.
OK
Given that information I'd say go for the top end of the Tarkus as posted earlier.
It's fun to listen to and most things you need to learn about building speakers can be found doing it.
If afterwards you want or need more bass it is easy enough to add in a stand with a bigger woofer and use one of the many ways of doing so. Powered or passive.
Given that information I'd say go for the top end of the Tarkus as posted earlier.
It's fun to listen to and most things you need to learn about building speakers can be found doing it.
If afterwards you want or need more bass it is easy enough to add in a stand with a bigger woofer and use one of the many ways of doing so. Powered or passive.
If you can get decent plywood cheap (I can't here in the US anymore) you could do a translam build and you won't need veneer or paint.
