Hello:
Just bought my first tube tester (actually, it was given to me). It's a Precision 10-60. Wow! This thing looks really nice, and is clean. Switches and pots feel good. I'll open it up in a few days for a good inspection before I use it. Came from a guy whose dad used to repair TV's around the neighborhood.
How many of you actually use tube testers, versus just part swapping? Are they accurate as far as identifying bad tubes, but not always guaranteeing a good tube?
I would like to offer the guy a few bucks for this tester, as it looks so nice, but ebay doesn't have too many examples. So I guess my two questions are: Have I found a genuinely good tester, and what is it worth?
Just bought my first tube tester (actually, it was given to me). It's a Precision 10-60. Wow! This thing looks really nice, and is clean. Switches and pots feel good. I'll open it up in a few days for a good inspection before I use it. Came from a guy whose dad used to repair TV's around the neighborhood.
How many of you actually use tube testers, versus just part swapping? Are they accurate as far as identifying bad tubes, but not always guaranteeing a good tube?
I would like to offer the guy a few bucks for this tester, as it looks so nice, but ebay doesn't have too many examples. So I guess my two questions are: Have I found a genuinely good tester, and what is it worth?
Well, I can't say much about that model myself having not used one. Or at least I don't recall using that out of the many I have used 😉
I do have to say though that a good tube tester is a very valuable tool in working with tube electroncs; I have a few of them and use them regularly. Mine are both stark machines... Unfortunately, I don't even recall the model numbers at the moment.
Mine are of the mutual conductance type and I use them for performing gain measurements on tubes. This is nice whether I'm repairing, designing, building, etc. Whatever I'm doing, I always have one or both of my tube testers up on the bench when I'm working with tube equipment.
I do have to say though that a good tube tester is a very valuable tool in working with tube electroncs; I have a few of them and use them regularly. Mine are both stark machines... Unfortunately, I don't even recall the model numbers at the moment.
Mine are of the mutual conductance type and I use them for performing gain measurements on tubes. This is nice whether I'm repairing, designing, building, etc. Whatever I'm doing, I always have one or both of my tube testers up on the bench when I'm working with tube equipment.
I had a presicion 10/12 a while back, I thought it was well made. Many cheaper testers use only 25 or so volts for testing whereas the Precision manual stated that it used real world voltages for testing which to me made it one of the better emission testers. Don't know what its worth, best bet it to keep watching Ebay.
Hi zigzagflux,
I use a Stark 9-66 - always. I also pay attention to what happens when the tubes are replaced.
Voltage measurements in a running circuit are often better than just pulling and testing tubes.
-Chris
I use a Stark 9-66 - always. I also pay attention to what happens when the tubes are replaced.
Voltage measurements in a running circuit are often better than just pulling and testing tubes.
-Chris
Ah yes, now I recall the model number of one of my starks, it's the 9-66A, with a full set of updates and socket adapters. This is an old tester, but a nice one.
I seem to remember that my other stark is a 12-22 or something to that nature. Same idea but in a black case with newer sockets and features.
I seem to remember that my other stark is a 12-22 or something to that nature. Same idea but in a black case with newer sockets and features.
Hi Duo,
Do you have a picture of your 12-22? Sounds nice.
I also have an old VT/2U I'm going to set up. It looks like you actually set up all the electrode voltages.
-Chris
Do you have a picture of your 12-22? Sounds nice.
I also have an old VT/2U I'm going to set up. It looks like you actually set up all the electrode voltages.
-Chris
Just keep your eyes open, the 9-66A was given to me by a dear friend.
The 12-22 was going to be thrown out by my highschool, so I took it, along with a lot of other nice things.
The 12-22 was going to be thrown out by my highschool, so I took it, along with a lot of other nice things.
Nice! I'm not familiar with that model, but it looks very respectable. Getting a good tube analyzer should be a goal for every tube-head. I've got a Triplett 3444 and a Hickok 752. I will be selling the latter on eBay in a few days, if anyone is interested.
Help with Stark 9-66 Calibration
Hello,
I have a question for you relative to my newly acquired Stark 9-66, and was wondering if you might be able to help me. The tester I purchased has some pretty good age to it (has the yellow/brown tweed covering on what is left of the case) and has been used hard. Even so, it is pretty much a sound unit. I am trying to calibrate it, and have uncovered some anomalies. Key to these reside in the bias circuit.
First off, my 3000 ohm R7 bias pot has been replaced with a linear one. I believe I can work around this since I have received the ohm readings of a tapered pot from another Stark/Hickok unit.
My bigger concern has to do with my bias voltage. At full clockwise rotation (bias setting of 100) the DC Grid Bias voltage should read munus (-) 39 V, plus or minus 1 volt. Mine reads 45 Volts; clearly out of speck. On sister Hickok units (533 and 600) the 6000 ohm R6 power resistor has a sliding tap and is adjustable to bring this in line. The R6 power resistor in the Stark unit is a fixed resistor.
I had a relatively high ohm (33K) resistor connected in parallell to the outside most posts of R7, but this did not show on the schematic so I removed it. I have (on a temporary basis) placed resistors of varying magnitude across these outside posts in an effort to bring the overall DC Grid Bias voltage back to the -39V it is supposed to be, but this doesn't seem to be working very well since it reduces the overall resistance of R7 significantly.
Do you know how I am supposed to get the -39V DC Grid Bias voltage on the Stark 9-66 aligned properly? Any help would with an answer to this or any other info on the care, feeding and calibration oft my Stark 9-66 be greatly appreciated.
Also, what is you friend intending to do with the surplus expansion panels? It would be great to install one of these onto my tester once I get my unit properly aligned.
Dave
Hello,
I have a question for you relative to my newly acquired Stark 9-66, and was wondering if you might be able to help me. The tester I purchased has some pretty good age to it (has the yellow/brown tweed covering on what is left of the case) and has been used hard. Even so, it is pretty much a sound unit. I am trying to calibrate it, and have uncovered some anomalies. Key to these reside in the bias circuit.
First off, my 3000 ohm R7 bias pot has been replaced with a linear one. I believe I can work around this since I have received the ohm readings of a tapered pot from another Stark/Hickok unit.
My bigger concern has to do with my bias voltage. At full clockwise rotation (bias setting of 100) the DC Grid Bias voltage should read munus (-) 39 V, plus or minus 1 volt. Mine reads 45 Volts; clearly out of speck. On sister Hickok units (533 and 600) the 6000 ohm R6 power resistor has a sliding tap and is adjustable to bring this in line. The R6 power resistor in the Stark unit is a fixed resistor.
I had a relatively high ohm (33K) resistor connected in parallell to the outside most posts of R7, but this did not show on the schematic so I removed it. I have (on a temporary basis) placed resistors of varying magnitude across these outside posts in an effort to bring the overall DC Grid Bias voltage back to the -39V it is supposed to be, but this doesn't seem to be working very well since it reduces the overall resistance of R7 significantly.
Do you know how I am supposed to get the -39V DC Grid Bias voltage on the Stark 9-66 aligned properly? Any help would with an answer to this or any other info on the care, feeding and calibration oft my Stark 9-66 be greatly appreciated.
Also, what is you friend intending to do with the surplus expansion panels? It would be great to install one of these onto my tester once I get my unit properly aligned.
Dave
Hi,
I will try and remember to dig out my 9-66 and take a look for you. I believe I have a schematic too and could probably figure out what to do for yours.
I'm not sure what you mean by expansion panels?
I will try and remember to dig out my 9-66 and take a look for you. I believe I have a schematic too and could probably figure out what to do for yours.
I'm not sure what you mean by expansion panels?
Back to original subject... the Precision 10-60 MAY use the same test data as 10-54, found at this site: http://oldradios.50webs.com/precision/ - give Chris an email.
It's an emission tester, good for finding shorts and worn-out tubes. Was made from 1958-1962, according to Alan Douglas' book.
It's an emission tester, good for finding shorts and worn-out tubes. Was made from 1958-1962, according to Alan Douglas' book.
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