Pre-Orders Up for 206-ESR

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You are not alone!

I ordered my drivers Monday. Plan to build a pair using the Madisound page blueprint. Am not sure what type plywood I will use. Would be nice to use "real" Maple.

I have a BK-16 and plan to test the A90 & crossover on my new speaker. Have no idea what I am doing.:hot:
 
no xo said:
Madisound now has updated plans with all necessary dimensions. Hey, I`m replying to myself.....and wondering if I`m the only guy planning on building these. Does anybody else know what it`s like to be lonely?


I checked out the "corrections" on the Madisound plan. Now there are 2 dimensions that are different to the Nagaoka D-57 design, but all the other dimensions remain the same. I wonder if this is intentional......
 
Sorry to intrude :angel:

One of my projects/dreams has been to build a scaled down, 1:2 Tannoy Autograph enclosure, wich is, as you know, a front and rear loaded horn. Looking at specs sheets I found that two candidates were good compliment for the enclosure: FE206ES and Audio Nirvana "super 8", as the back horn will enhance LF response and front horn will take care of midrange.
Bass and midrange response from this enclosure is very good!

Maybe the new FE206ESR will be even better.
Any comments welcome. :D

Link to Autograph's plans:
http://www.users.bigpond.com/tunnelgap/Tannoy/autograph.html

Thanks.
Mauricio
 
Thanks for the reply and Bogan Guy, I`m real new at DIY or really in my case, just make it yourself (MIY), so I make what looks interesting to me, and hope it turns out OK. All of the Fostex recommended plans that I`ve built, exceeded my expectations, especially the double BR boxes for the FE127e, and the BLH for the FE206e. Both my 2channel set up and my HT system use Fostex drivers and now it`s hard to listen to my old stuff, which is supposed to be good. I`ve ordered 18mm baltic birch for the Fe206ES-R cabinets and will start in a week. And I will post my progress on this site, as long as no one tell me to cool it.
 
ulfheden said:



I checked out the "corrections" on the Madisound plan. Now there are 2 dimensions that are different to the Nagaoka D-57 design, but all the other dimensions remain the same. I wonder if this is intentional......

Thank you for this information, ulfheden. I now noticed your other detailed post. Very helpful that.

Yes no xo, 18mm baltic birch is cheap and easy to work with. In my area we do have lots of Maple and custom wood mills. I am on a budget but who knows?
 
so has anone heard one of these in the fostex rec horn? where are the juicey details... i have been listening to my FE166ES-R's for a while now in the rec horns and i am really kicking myself for using mdf :( dont look forward to redoing these in birch but at least i have a better table saw now :)
 
there where several people talking about it before. i beleive it was in the 166esr enclosure thread back last year. but almost all agreed that mdf was too inert for horn use. they said it just sounded dead and lifeless. when i put my 166esr drivers from the OB i was using into the factory horn cabs i did pick up a very respectable bottom end but all that high end magic and sparkle died. i tried taking out the dampening i used but it didnt make much differance. in the end i added a tweeter and they sound ok now. but notting i would call special. im kinda looking for something else now. want to try OB again, with a more appropriot speaker.
 
Slappomat, Ihave not heard the 206ESR`s in the Fostex recommended horns yet, for me, this will be a faith based project. I`ve got the baltic birch in the basement now, but have`nt started cutting. This morning UPS sent a confirmation regarding a shopment from Madisound, so I`ll begin this week. Any horns I make will use baltic birch, and BR boxes will be MDF. This is mainly based on what I read on this site and the single driver site, and so far the results are good.
 
Toto, the plans I downloaded from the Madisound site show two12mm holes spaced 25mm apart for the binding posts. I don`t see any 24mm holes. I`ve built the horns and they are breaking in beautifully. I did not cut holes for binding posts. I cut a hole about 2"x3" and made a plate from MDF with a hole in the center and soldered my speaker wires directly to the driver and eliminated connections on the speaker. This allows me to get inside far enough so I could change things if I wanted and I can get my hand inside the throat from the back or driver hole to access wires.
 
Thanks to No Xo and Pendergast!

Yes this is my mistake about diameter! The holes are 12 mm!
I post my question because I thought that there is something more special around these holes, related with some specifics in horn design. Now I'm sure that my pair will not have such holes!

Maybe here is the place to ask for suggestions about suitable amplifier for 206 ES-R in recommended enclosure. I'm planning to use SE 4 W with Russian tubes.
 
Ping Raffi and Till (Roemhild)

Hi,

I am using Hornresp to simulate BLH.
I noticed (long time ago) that a bigger (bigger then what would consider common practice) rear chamber is required to calm down FR of BLH, but then I found your article and learned about your design philosophy of BL Horns.

I played with Hornresp on different BLH (for the FE206ES-R) parameters using yours approach (large chamber of around 50L and short horn length of 1m to 2m ) but never got flat FR as you represent.
One exception is when I make the path difference between the direct radiator and the back horn very short (about 10cm to 50cm for horn of ~1.5m, this means that the horn mouth it forward to the driver), here I can get dead flat response.

Could you draw a first guess of a BLH for FE206ES-R using your design concept?

Thank you,
 
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