I have a broken 2300.2 amp. I pluged the remote wire wrong and blew a IRFZ44 (burned).As far as i understand the man. repl. is discountinued.I need a replacement or do I need to replace all 6 of the IRFZ44. thanks a mill$
I put two replacment irfz44. One on eac side (one burnedAND one cracked). I hooked it up just to power and they got smokin hoooot! I replaced all that i saw was wrong, could ther be any thing else.Or does noone know of this amp or what im talkn about.PLESA HELP!!!!!
You must replace all 6. Don't try to re-use the ones you replaced. Install 6 new, unused transistors.
Check the gate resistors to make sure they're within tolerance. Do this after removing the old FETs.
You should not apply power to this amp without having the bottom cover tightened down on the amp. When you power up the amp, you should do so through a 10 amp fuse.
If you're new to repair work, you should read the basic repair page (link below).
Check the gate resistors to make sure they're within tolerance. Do this after removing the old FETs.
You should not apply power to this amp without having the bottom cover tightened down on the amp. When you power up the amp, you should do so through a 10 amp fuse.
If you're new to repair work, you should read the basic repair page (link below).
Are you talking about 10 amp inline fuse cause it dosent have a fuse holder. the irfz44s have diff #s does it matter if i replace them all with same thanks so much, this amp has been sittin around for 3 years.Its time to get the massager back in the car.I have 2 orion xtr-10dvc.
Yes, a 10 amp inline fuse.
What do you mean by different numbers?
For the new Z44s, they should be identical (identical part number and production/date code). It doesn't matter if the old ones had different date codes.
What do you mean by different numbers?
For the new Z44s, they should be identical (identical part number and production/date code). It doesn't matter if the old ones had different date codes.
I did what u said and it came on with some buzzing sound out of the round thing. I hooked it up in the car and it was pulsating the power and extruding the speaker in and out, any IDEAS?
Did you check the output transistors to see if any were shorted?
Did it blow the 10 amp fuse when you powered it up?
Does the power light pulse if there are no speakers connected to the amp?
Does the power light pulse with no RCAs plugged into the amp?
Did it blow the 10 amp fuse when you powered it up?
Does the power light pulse if there are no speakers connected to the amp?
Does the power light pulse with no RCAs plugged into the amp?
YES I checked the output tranisitors and they all work properly. It still pulsates when you unplug the rca wires,it stays on with full power.It does not pulsat power when the speaker are unhooked.
Check the RCA shield ground of the head unit. With the RCA cables unplugged from the amp, you should read ~0 ohms when you touch one meter lead to the RCA shield of the signal cable and the other meter lead to a known good ground.
If that's OK...
Test the speaker wires for continuity to ground. With the wires disconnected from the amp, there should be no continuity to ground. If you find that that there is continuity to ground, you need to check the wiring to find the point where the wires are shorted to ground.
If that's not the problem, measure the resistance between the shield of the RCA input connectors of the amp and the non-bridging speaker terminals (L-, R+). You should read ~10 ohms.
If that's OK...
Test the speaker wires for continuity to ground. With the wires disconnected from the amp, there should be no continuity to ground. If you find that that there is continuity to ground, you need to check the wiring to find the point where the wires are shorted to ground.
If that's not the problem, measure the resistance between the shield of the RCA input connectors of the amp and the non-bridging speaker terminals (L-, R+). You should read ~10 ohms.
I unplugged my other amp and hooked it up so i know the head unit ground is good.the right speaker + reads -5.10 volts. the left - reads 4.15 volts. the OHM level for the rca was .10 kohms.
I'm not sure how you measured the voltage but the left - and right + should be connected together inside the amp so they should have the same voltage.
Confirm that they're connected together with your ohm meter. You should read ~0 ohms with one meter lead on the L- and the other meter lead on the R+.
From the two speaker terminals that are connected together to the shield of either of the RCA inputs, you should read 10 ohms.
Not all amplifiers respond the same to open shields. Plugging them into a different amp is not a definitive test.
Confirm that they're connected together with your ohm meter. You should read ~0 ohms with one meter lead on the L- and the other meter lead on the R+.
From the two speaker terminals that are connected together to the shield of either of the RCA inputs, you should read 10 ohms.
Not all amplifiers respond the same to open shields. Plugging them into a different amp is not a definitive test.
Completely disconnect the amp (both power and audio cables) and measure the resistance from the B+ terminal to the RCA shield.
It appears that you have a shorted transformer (shorted from primary to secondary). If you read ~0 ohms between B+ and the L-/R+ speaker terminals, it's definitely shorted.
This is probably repairable if the enamel hasn't overheated and lifted from the windings. It's probably OK if you can't scrape it off of the copper with your fingernails.
Pull the cover and see if the enamel is intact. If it is, you'll need a high power, low ohm resistor (~2 ohms/~25 watts). An automotive headlamp may also work but I haven't tried it for this purpose.
I saw from your profile that you like karting. The following link is some of the work I did for a friend when he was into karting.
http://www.bcot1.com/karting/
This is probably repairable if the enamel hasn't overheated and lifted from the windings. It's probably OK if you can't scrape it off of the copper with your fingernails.
Pull the cover and see if the enamel is intact. If it is, you'll need a high power, low ohm resistor (~2 ohms/~25 watts). An automotive headlamp may also work but I haven't tried it for this purpose.
I saw from your profile that you like karting. The following link is some of the work I did for a friend when he was into karting.
http://www.bcot1.com/karting/
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