building t-amp clone using the on/off switch, I think the switch light up, but can't seem to get the light to come on, turns the unit on fine. Can anyone provide info?
gychang
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
gychang
What is the voltage on the switch? What is the third terminal for? What voltage does the switch light run on? What is the part number and manufacturer of the switch?
I can tell by looking it is not a standard allen bradley nema panel switch with 440 vAC rating and 24 VAC bulb. Is the switch even UL listed?
I can tell by looking it is not a standard allen bradley nema panel switch with 440 vAC rating and 24 VAC bulb. Is the switch even UL listed?
The third terminal goes to neutral (or return). But if it is a 220V switch it may not come on at all in the States. The lite inside is a neon-glo bulb.
Sorry to ask: Should you be playing with electriciy when you can not solve a 3-piece puzzle? E
Sorry to ask: Should you be playing with electriciy when you can not solve a 3-piece puzzle? E
Come on three terminal switches are rare. A 220 neon indicator will still glow at 120. The resistor limits the current once the arc starts. So even with too high a value resistor it will just glow less brightly.
The fun is when he gets the switch across the hot and neutral. Checking which two leads with a meter for conductivity would show which two are used for the switch and the "Open" one would go to the other side of the AC line. If the lamp stays on the the AC hot and load on the switch terminals are reversed.
So the best case is it works, not so good he blows up a switch, really bad more evidence of Darwin's theory.
I am new at this, this is for DC amp (t-amp), not sure where I got it. Not AC.
gychang
OK everyone here is asuming that the switch is being used to turn on AC and that is what this kind of switch is used for. Perhaps you should take more pictures, or at least provide the make and model of the T-amp, along with the part number on the switch, a detailed discription of how everythis is hooked up, blah blah blah,,,,,,,,,,, Oh heck, just post a picture or two.
You are right! And I apoplogize asuming that it would be the AC-side power switch. These switches are used in millions of small appliances and I just......E
If you want to glow it on dc, open the switch and fix some dc light source(LED, bulb) with appropriate voltage. Put R in series for LED.
Well, I can see what sure looks to be "125VAC" printed right on the body of the switch.
I'd say the ball has been in the OP's court since post#1...
Just for kicks, I'm betting this is a SPDT AC switch with a paralleled (probably neon) illuminator.
I'd say the ball has been in the OP's court since post#1...
Just for kicks, I'm betting this is a SPDT AC switch with a paralleled (probably neon) illuminator.
Hi gychang,
If it is used to switch AC and the amp works but there is
no light,it is possible one end of the neon bulb has broken.Although
it is possible to fix it might as well get a new one which does'nt cost much.
PS the AC should be the wall input of 120V in your case or else the neon
gas might not strike up or light as you might say.🙂
If it is used to switch AC and the amp works but there is
no light,it is possible one end of the neon bulb has broken.Although
it is possible to fix it might as well get a new one which does'nt cost much.
PS the AC should be the wall input of 120V in your case or else the neon
gas might not strike up or light as you might say.🙂
If used to switch DC you will need 60-90V to light a neon, and even then it won't be very bright if the series resistor is intended for 120V AC.
On/off, is the on is when flipped to O?, I is for off isn't it?, sorry about real basic question. gychang
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