Power Distributor DIY

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Hi Everyone,

I'm about making my own power distributor for audio and video, I hope someone can help me in some areas.
I need know what best option about connections, starwire or daisy chain (loop), to wire six outlets?

The wires I'm thinking: Neotech SOCT-12AWG Copper. Sockets: Furutech FI-E30 Schuko sockets. for use 240 volt.

1- If I want use Furutech FI-09 IEC as starting point, the six wires will not fit. As each terminal of FI-09 accept maximum gauge only 10mm. There is a solution, attach all wires to Furutech spade 209, which will fit inside FI-09, but I don't want use spades because they degrade sound quality.

2- Alternative, not use IEC connectors, connect power cable strands strands directly with solid core, twisting all wires together, then tighten by metal crimp, or solder.
But not too comfortable about this even if can archivable, because not commonly used, and not sure about safety and reliability after long run.

So, I prefer better idea.

Many thanks to all!
 
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Maybe this is what you're looking for?
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https://www.digikey.fr/en/products/detail/phoenix-contact/3273332/7596887
https://www.digikey.fr/en/products/detail/phoenix-contact/3273340/7596899
 
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Hi Everyone,

I'm about making my own power distributor for audio and video, i hope someone can help me in some areas.
I already have sockets and distributor body, just need know best option about wire type, connections, and Starwire or Daisy Chain.

The wires I'm thinking: NEOTECH SOST-12 UP-OCC, either Silver or Copper, conductor gauge about 2mm. Use with Furutech FI-E30 Schuko sockets, and 240 volt.

1- If i want make Furutech FI-09 IEC as starting point, the six wires (from six sockets) will not fit, maybe 5 or 4 wires only. As each terminal of FI-09 accept maximum gauge 10mm. I know some manufactures go around this by attaching one wire (solder or metal grip …) with three wires. So only two wires (total of 4mm) goes in FI-09, to feed all six sockets, which will work.

But I assume this not optimal, as might reduce strength of AC flow. As there is wire cut and attached with other wires, which can interduce noise. Plus only 4mm is used, instead of 12mm.

2- Alternative, bypass IEC connectors, by connect power cord strands like Furutech DPS 4.1, directly with Solid Core, twisting all wires together, tighten all by either electric connector (commonly used), or metal crimp, or solder.

This look much better (I think), but can Strand wire attached with Solid Core, and Copper with Silver?

3- About SOST Silver or Copper, not much review about them despite most expensive cable, like to know are these great and suitable for internal AC wiring?
Is there better option?

Many thanks to all!
Sounds like audiophile ******** to me, just wire with 2.5 mm2 solid core will do the job.
 
Thanks a lot, Chrisng!

Sorry i didn't fully get it!
The two items in first post look different than the item in last.
But may I ask, what exactly this item do? Accept incoming one wire and divide into many? Is it more efficient than twisting wires together? Do i need filter or else?

Its very important i have strongest AC current at socket, without loss or just slight. My audio gear demand very high current, like a dedicate AC line from breaker box for each socket.
 
The connectors in post #2 are terminal blocks that allow you to connect the Furutech DPS 4.1 live and neutral wires in each block and distribute them like "star wires" to the 6 Furutech FI-E30's. It eliminates the need to twist all the wires together and you can easily undo any connections to experiment different wires.
Screenshot 2024-08-04 at 16-25-30 PTFIX 6_6X2 5 BK - phoenix-contact-3273344-en.pdf.png

Its very important i have strongest AC current at socket, without loss or just slight. My audio gear demand very high current, like a dedicate AC line from breaker box for each socket.
Compared to plugs and receptacles, I don't think you're losing anything with these terminal blocks!
 
I'm coming back here because my negative experience with distributor block I tried, the ABB model DBL80. Try it with Furutech FI-E30 sockets, use Neotech SOCT 12AWG. The sound weak and very flat, not good! Didn’t try Phoenix Contact, I'm assuming both have similar same results based on price point, but I could be wrong!

In any case, I asked around a lot and come with some options, like Mersen MPDB66563 (or Bussmann PDB323-3, Marathon 132X580), which is expensive.

Further discussion with some experts, there is possibilities additional screws will create more noises, like in case 6 output poles in distributor block. No idea how much true of that, but Distributor Block can have single output pole (rather than 6), and thick diameter like 9mm to accept many solid core wires which connector to 6 sockets. So in theory, can be as FI-09 IEC inlet, and the improvements will be “significant” than any IEC inlet.

But my main question, have many people try power distributor blocks for audio and video gears purpose and what they found, compare to FI-09? Is distributor block suitable for audio and video gears, or for other purposes?

The reason I'm asking (while seems PD good idea) I don’t see review or people used it, and all audio and video manufactures (I know at least) use only IEC inlet.
 
Not outrageous AC! Very funny!
Its Krell CD player and preamp, Blu ray, Turntable and phono preamp. The demand of this also come from manufactures. Its important have strong AC as the improvement will be significant. Also, i strongly don't like use any power conditioners, but more pure AC line as best approach.
 
Great advice my parents learned me when I was kid helped me to become well being person:

When you enter and leave other people home, you must practice top hygiene, nice and clean! If that not achievable, then don't venture it, you end up unwelcomed!

One important advantage on the internet posts, not only discovers knew ideas about our appliance (which is beneficial), but keep intact with other globe people, spread good nature.
 
Unattractive compared to many commercial terminal block alternatives, but cheap and very low loss is using one threaded post, insulated from the chassis, and stacking eyelets crimped and soldered to the connectors. The eyelets are sometimes called 'ring tongues'. The post is not the primary conductor, the rings stacked one upon another clamped by a well-tightened nut are doing the job. I would put the input in the middle of the stack and the others above and below. If the rings are very clean and a tiny touche of silver grease added between them with sturdy washers above and below the stack, I think the quality of the multiple connections would be hard to beat.

Skip
 
Thanks a lot Skip Pack! Look good idea, I look for it.

Forget mention my purpose, I'm not believer that one power distributor with six outlet is sufficient to feed 5 or 6 sources (no amplifiers), even using good dedicate power cable 6 AWG from main breaker box. Calculation: 6 AWG divided between 6 outlet, each outlet will receive only 1 AWG electricity, that’s can be very little particularly for gears demand power.

Add to this; the dedicate power cable will pass too many stop points before reach final destination, each of these points will create noise for sure, locations: wall outlet, power cord connector, IEC power cord, and IEC inlet in power distributor, plus each of these points have additional sub-points. That’s a lot, which can strip strength from electrical flow. I'm assuming the end results for each outlet is even less than 1 AWG electricity.

Objective; eliminate all stop points, connect dedicate power cable (from main breaker box) directly to one point where distribute all wires to 6 outlet. While this may not eliminate the main problem (each outlet receive only 1 AWG electricity), but I assume will be much improvements.
 
If one builds a DIY power distributor it may is good to look at functionality and not too much at expensive audiophile stuff that just does not function better than industrial parts. It is about relatively simple electrical rules and practices and only then about brands/part numbers.

What do you expect from a DIY power distributor? First (I hope) that it is better than what can be bought. This is not very hard to achieve. Second what functionality is desired. It would be beneficial to use a real mains switch to be able to switch stuff off (or maybe per outlet switching), to have adequate fusing, inlet filtering with overvoltage protection and to use mains filtering per socket. This to avoid feedback of devices with SMPS to other devices in the chain. This is when looking at it with technical eyes.

For sources it may be beneficial to use 1:1 isolation transformers. I use these a lot and they are always an improvement.

Oh and you will need a good quality installed house installation with code approved stuff, work done by good electricians and the right cable gauge and of course a good PE connection. A separate group for audio is nice to have.
 
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Woow! That's great information, thanks a lot Jean-Paul.
Honestly I was thinking basic work, like a very thick wires directly to the sockets, what you provide is a lot more. I will take good thinking about it.

Filtrations & conditioners: might be negative zone particularly to Krell (and Oppo 105 BR), because every time try passive filters the sound degrade 100% (that's include Transparent power cords, and Furutech Flux-50). No filtration is the main reason I want DYI, Furutech such e-TP609E and e-TP309E are good example, they work perfect with everything.

What you provide sound like active conditioner (which I never tried before), maybe like AQ Niagara's or SR Power Cell for example. My best friend John (at The Cable Co) always recommend me try actives, but not sure how they react with Krell I'm afraid.