Funny, that. Servisol electrical cleaning products go back a loooooooong way. I recall when that stuff was ether based - good for starting tiny aero motors, explosions, dissolving styroseals and any parts marking you hoped to keep.
'Looks like a hexane in that one - It will still blow you away like racing fuel so don't assume the safety data is for wimps.
It goes against best practice etc, but I find it is lubrication that is required as much as cleaning. You can tell this when the scratchiness returns after some weeks. Use a lube in there and the "fix" may last a lot longer.
'Looks like a hexane in that one - It will still blow you away like racing fuel so don't assume the safety data is for wimps.
It goes against best practice etc, but I find it is lubrication that is required as much as cleaning. You can tell this when the scratchiness returns after some weeks. Use a lube in there and the "fix" may last a lot longer.
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Whos right ? Andy says you can use lower but Franks says you cant .. bit confusing 🙁
The Service manual says these parts are :
C801 8220 200 82191 12000µF 56V S56V12000UPM20B
C802 8220 200 82191 12000µF 56V S56V12000UPM20B
and the modders have replaced them with
11) Replaced C801/802 from 56V 12000uF Elna ‘For Audio’
To 56V 22000uF Elna Silmic (very large caps)
They don't do 56v at CPC so I thought I would go for something else .. either higher or lower but now I'm confused lol
AndrewT is mixed up with his numbers.
You can use capacitors that are higher in voltage than those used originally.
IF and its a BIG IF. The originals were larger than necesary, and that can only be measured with a meter, THEN and ONLY THEN might you consider lowering the voltage.
MOST if not ALL manufacturers would not use over sized capacitors due to cost savings.
So, if the originals are 12000uF / 56V you would be looking at 10000uF / 63V which is probably the closest modern value.
You run the risk of popping fuses or diodes if you try 22000uF / 63V.
You can use capacitors that are higher in voltage than those used originally.
IF and its a BIG IF. The originals were larger than necesary, and that can only be measured with a meter, THEN and ONLY THEN might you consider lowering the voltage.
MOST if not ALL manufacturers would not use over sized capacitors due to cost savings.
So, if the originals are 12000uF / 56V you would be looking at 10000uF / 63V which is probably the closest modern value.
You run the risk of popping fuses or diodes if you try 22000uF / 63V.
Hi KatieandDad thanks for that answer clears it up for me 🙂
Why would they use 56v 22000 uf instead of 10000 uf ? Just as a matter of interest ..
And if you could explain why
MAL210118103E3 - VISHAY BC COMPONENTS - CAPACITOR, 63V 10000UF | CPC are £13.43 each and
ECOS1JP103EA - PANASONIC - CAPACITOR, 10000UF, 63V | CPC
are £7.19 is it the make or do they do something special ?
The engineers would have calculated the smallest caps that they could get away with and then used something a bit bigger. How much bigger would depend on their budget per unit.
In your post the Vishays are Computer Grade caps. They are generally better built and are better quality.
In your application, use what you can get to fit and what you can afford. Don't be tempted by the CHEAPEST though. The PM-66SE will benefit from reasonable components.
After all, the SE means that Philips (yes they make Marantz - or they did in that era anyway) have applied their Special Equipment treatment to it.
In your post the Vishays are Computer Grade caps. They are generally better built and are better quality.
In your application, use what you can get to fit and what you can afford. Don't be tempted by the CHEAPEST though. The PM-66SE will benefit from reasonable components.
After all, the SE means that Philips (yes they make Marantz - or they did in that era anyway) have applied their Special Equipment treatment to it.
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If you can calculate the highest possible voltage, then use that or the next higher cap spec. If you can't, then use one which is at least as high as those currently fitted.
Basically I would like to swap out what can with better, the theory being that as you said there was a buget.. but the quality is already every good I don't intend to buy another amp so I'd like to improve what I have.. plus use it as a way of learning a bit about audio electronics, at the moment I think there is far less bass than there was 20 years ago and the bass is also harsher .. I guess I'm a tinkering and interested in electronics .. so I wont go for cheapest in fact i will probably buy better than necessary lol
If you could explain this for me I will be very grateful
• FITTED EXTRA KI TX (NOW RUNNING 2) VA approx 500VA
What is a KI TX ?? lol I know its a n00b question but I'm scratching my head !
I have multimeter I can vaguely use it the only thing I have used it for is my hand built crossovers ( kit form ) so beyond that I have no idea 🙁
You could measure the voltage, then add on 20% for mains variation, then add whatever safety factor makes you comfortable.
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