Could also be used for 8) as theres a metal back plate that connects directly to the ground lug
As long as the connectors/switches are easily obtainable (or provided with the case GB), my vote is for everything pre-drilled. I really try to avoid doing my own drilling especially on the front and back panels, since all I have is a hand drill. I like the Neutrik XLR's, and I would probably prefer an IEC socket if there is the room (though I am fine with the Powercon too).
yes. The APEM switch (link to Digikey # 679-1246-ND inserted) looks pretty sturdy.
Alright, gets my vote.
type: yet undecided. Predrill. I trying to avoid much metal work on this case due to the lack of appropriate tools. This was the main reason for buying it.
The PowerCon gets my vote; although I won't be dissappointed very much if an IEC socket will be installed
Predrill holes.
Perfect.
The question isn't entirely clear to me.
Yes, please.
Done. Being nice to others was fairly easy in this case. Generally, I support the notion of others that these additional parts might be added to the case against cost.
I have another question: The picture in post #217 of the main thread shows PCBs sitting on the regulator heat sinks. The text in post #217 says:
But the original BOM in post #62 of this thread mentions only inclusion of support material for these internal sinks and not the sinks themselves.
Are these sinks (Fischer SK 88-125, if I identified them correctly) included in the case or not?
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The Schurter unit to replace 1,3,4 will fit the space available, just (in height). Please decide amongst yourselves for the rest. I will check your proposals for feasibility. Also please try to organise GB for these parts together with components you need for the amp, etc. I know it is easiest for you if we ship a complete kit in one. That means unfortunately maximum work and time required for us. And time is what Mark Lai and I do not have. It is already consuming a lot of time for both of us. I am sure you would not want us to charge you 100 Euros per hour for the "trouble".
I therefore beg for your understanding.
Patrick
I therefore beg for your understanding.
Patrick
You need to confirm a transformer choice so that I know what mounting hole size to drill.
Maybe you want to use a PCB transformer and then made one PCB for the AUX PSU.
(7812, 7912 TO220 + diodes + caps)
Max footprint 90x98mm, max height from mounting surface 32mm.
Mark found a local source for some cheap sinks with the right size.
If we can buy 50 of those, you get them at cost + machining + anodising.
We will not supply SK88 -- too expensive, too heavy to ship from DE to HK then to you.
So if we could not supply, please source locally.
Patrick
.
Maybe you want to use a PCB transformer and then made one PCB for the AUX PSU.
(7812, 7912 TO220 + diodes + caps)
Max footprint 90x98mm, max height from mounting surface 32mm.
Mark found a local source for some cheap sinks with the right size.
If we can buy 50 of those, you get them at cost + machining + anodising.
We will not supply SK88 -- too expensive, too heavy to ship from DE to HK then to you.
So if we could not supply, please source locally.
Patrick
.
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> Can I ask the output voltage of the 15 VA transformer ?
The AUX PSU is for powering the protection circuit and the relays.
It requires +/-12V regulated.
In the prototype, I used a toroid bought from DK (no longer available), 15VA 2x12Vac secondaries.
After rectification, still sufficient headroom for 7812 / 7912.
Patrick
The AUX PSU is for powering the protection circuit and the relays.
It requires +/-12V regulated.
In the prototype, I used a toroid bought from DK (no longer available), 15VA 2x12Vac secondaries.
After rectification, still sufficient headroom for 7812 / 7912.
Patrick
I found an appropriate toroid (size 58mmx30mm) manufactured by the renowned company Sedlbauer in the German Conrad webstore:
Ringkern-Transformator 230 V~ 2 x 12 V 15 VA Sedlbauer im Conrad Online Shop
Conrad offers a nice discount scheme for this item. The only drawback might be that it hasn't 2x115V but only 1x230V primaries.
Ringkern-Transformator 230 V~ 2 x 12 V 15 VA Sedlbauer im Conrad Online Shop
Conrad offers a nice discount scheme for this item. The only drawback might be that it hasn't 2x115V but only 1x230V primaries.
Perfect for you. But it also indicates that the size I mentioned is realisitic.
Sedlbauer usually have slightly larger size than others.
Patrick
Sedlbauer usually have slightly larger size than others.
Patrick
I am not registered with Google and don't intend to do so.
Could somebody possessing a Google account please set up a Google spreadsheet listing and summarizing the different options available? Thanks in advance!
I believe it would be easier to monitor the progress of the individual decisions this way rather than scrolling up and down this thread.
I will set up a wiki page dedicated to all the upcoming "potential" groupbuys in the next few days.
Could somebody possessing a Google account please set up a Google spreadsheet listing and summarizing the different options available? Thanks in advance!
I believe it would be easier to monitor the progress of the individual decisions this way rather than scrolling up and down this thread.
I will set up a wiki page dedicated to all the upcoming "potential" groupbuys in the next few days.
For setting up permanent Google spreadsheets a google account IS required.
Demo spreadsheets without registering are available for 24h and aren't permanent.
Demo spreadsheets without registering are available for 24h and aren't permanent.
It depends on what you want to do with google, it might be difficult to open a Google spreadsheet without having an account.
Beware: Googe wants to rule the world ...., but having them look in our hobby projects might be ok ;-)
Beware: Googe wants to rule the world ...., but having them look in our hobby projects might be ok ;-)
I was always able to edit the Google spreadsheets in this forum without an account. It worked. Presumably, the creator of the page made it "world writable".
I am aware that Google is foremost a data collection engine, and I'm trying to avoid it and use anonymizing alternatives such as Scroogle (follow the "Scroogle scraper link" for your searches if you want to try "Scroogle").
I am aware that Google is foremost a data collection engine, and I'm trying to avoid it and use anonymizing alternatives such as Scroogle (follow the "Scroogle scraper link" for your searches if you want to try "Scroogle").
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I see my view of the world of google is somewhat restricted.
I'll manage just fine thinking of google as a search engine, with unwanted advertisements.
I'll manage just fine thinking of google as a search engine, with unwanted advertisements.
Mouser sells the same Schurter IEC module for significantly less that Farnell. If we were to group buy (25) of them, they run about $19 each (link). The Schurter unit does look like a nice solution for the F5X.
I suggest one of you make a default list of all components, and see how many will vote for them (individually).
When you have all 25 votes, then it is done deal.
If not, you'll have to see whether a majority vote (say 15) will be acceptable to all.
Otherwise only discussions and no real progress.
Patrick
When you have all 25 votes, then it is done deal.
If not, you'll have to see whether a majority vote (say 15) will be acceptable to all.
Otherwise only discussions and no real progress.
Patrick
doe it make sense to have a (second) power switch on the back while the one on the front is designed in already?
The one at the front is a push button which will toggle the control and protection board between 3 states :
off (caps after rectifier energised),
standby (regulator and amplifier energies),
operate (input and output connected)
The control & protection board is otherwise on all times.
The switch at the back is there to de-energise everything.
This is what I have in my own amps.
If you wish to do without collectively, just let me know.
Patrick
off (caps after rectifier energised),
standby (regulator and amplifier energies),
operate (input and output connected)
The control & protection board is otherwise on all times.
The switch at the back is there to de-energise everything.
This is what I have in my own amps.
If you wish to do without collectively, just let me know.
Patrick
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