Hallo Diyaudio.
Thanks for the great community helping each other. I have spent a lot of time here and now I hope you will help me.
It's now two years since I improved my sound system, inspired by the Boominator concept. (The fifth version, improved nearly every year since 2010)
It looks like this:
Birdhouse
I designed it like that so it can fit in my cargo bike and are easy to get it around.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7uvla24iiofa6ki/Camp.jpg?dl=0
The build:
Player:
LIVA-X2
DAC/Mixer:
Behringer XENYX 302USB
Amp:
41Hz AMP9 (TA4100) (Bought from Vbro, 41hz forum)
Speakers:
8 * P.audio HP-10W 8 ohm
8 * Piezo Tweeter MPT-001
Power Source:
2x LifePo4 24V 50AH
They are wired with two woofers and two tweeters on each channel. Between the woofers and the tweeters, a placed a 47-ohm resistor.
I’m generally satisfied with it but I have a slight problem.
On a hot sunny day with the speaker on a high volume, the amplifier overheat. I have attached a computer water cooler but I don't think is that efficient.
Image of the AMP with cooler
I'm considering buying Sure AA-AB33182.
Does anybody know how its compared to the AMP9 TA4100?
Are there other more suitable amplifiers for a 26-27V setup?
If you have any other improvements I would love to hear about them. 🙂
Thanks for the great community helping each other. I have spent a lot of time here and now I hope you will help me.
It's now two years since I improved my sound system, inspired by the Boominator concept. (The fifth version, improved nearly every year since 2010)
It looks like this:
Birdhouse
I designed it like that so it can fit in my cargo bike and are easy to get it around.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7uvla24iiofa6ki/Camp.jpg?dl=0
The build:
Player:
LIVA-X2
DAC/Mixer:
Behringer XENYX 302USB
Amp:
41Hz AMP9 (TA4100) (Bought from Vbro, 41hz forum)
Speakers:
8 * P.audio HP-10W 8 ohm
8 * Piezo Tweeter MPT-001
Power Source:
2x LifePo4 24V 50AH
They are wired with two woofers and two tweeters on each channel. Between the woofers and the tweeters, a placed a 47-ohm resistor.
I’m generally satisfied with it but I have a slight problem.
On a hot sunny day with the speaker on a high volume, the amplifier overheat. I have attached a computer water cooler but I don't think is that efficient.
Image of the AMP with cooler
I'm considering buying Sure AA-AB33182.
Does anybody know how its compared to the AMP9 TA4100?
Are there other more suitable amplifiers for a 26-27V setup?
If you have any other improvements I would love to hear about them. 🙂
TI make good amp chips
http://yuan-jing.com/ make good amp boards
personally i remember on deciding to avoid ta4100 amps due to poor THD above 50% or something like that.
the old/current ti amp chips like tas5611 i think there thd shoots above 50% or something like that i think arr not sure :/ but other wise good. Check there nice datasheet 🙂 My memory needs refreshing.
IRS amp chips are good too but are +/- duel DC and so need special power supply. yuan-jing make a 12v DC to 45v +/- DC boost converter. YJ make a 200w or something IRS2092 mono board that works well.
Sure make good amp boards, just note which amp IC they used for a board before you decide to get it.
Look at watts vs thd graph in amp IC datasheet. things like that helped me a lot.
http://hifimediy.com/ also make good amp boards, problem is, most of there boards but for new fully digital one, all use older amp ICs :/.
I would suggest you for for a YJ or sure made TAS5611 and see how that goes for you. maybe theres other amps out there but off the top of my head, thats what i can think of.
wish you well with your improvements.
http://yuan-jing.com/ make good amp boards
personally i remember on deciding to avoid ta4100 amps due to poor THD above 50% or something like that.
the old/current ti amp chips like tas5611 i think there thd shoots above 50% or something like that i think arr not sure :/ but other wise good. Check there nice datasheet 🙂 My memory needs refreshing.
IRS amp chips are good too but are +/- duel DC and so need special power supply. yuan-jing make a 12v DC to 45v +/- DC boost converter. YJ make a 200w or something IRS2092 mono board that works well.
Sure make good amp boards, just note which amp IC they used for a board before you decide to get it.
Look at watts vs thd graph in amp IC datasheet. things like that helped me a lot.
http://hifimediy.com/ also make good amp boards, problem is, most of there boards but for new fully digital one, all use older amp ICs :/.
I would suggest you for for a YJ or sure made TAS5611 and see how that goes for you. maybe theres other amps out there but off the top of my head, thats what i can think of.
wish you well with your improvements.
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this one also looks good for ya with the YJ dc-dc+/- boost module: Sure Electronics' webstore 2 x 125 Watt Class D Audio Amplifier Board - IRS2092
sure also make nice 300w dc-dc (not a duel +/- one, typical normal type) boost converter. that can output more than double the input voltage, very useful for high power audio amps! http://store3.sure-electronics.com/audio/ps-sp12151
sure also make nice 300w dc-dc (not a duel +/- one, typical normal type) boost converter. that can output more than double the input voltage, very useful for high power audio amps! http://store3.sure-electronics.com/audio/ps-sp12151
Eight 10" woofers?
I'd go for two 15" woofers and a big mid/high horn.
An amp like TAS5630 in pbtl-mode is enough to power this.
You can build a simple two-channel crossover around 1.5kHz for this.
It will propably sound much better than those piezos.
Ten 18650 lifepo4 batteries are good to power an TAS5630.
If you want to spend a little more for better quality, buy a mini-dsp and a two channel amp.
That allows you to omit the crossover and match the signal better for your speaker.
Look at this, it should be available in Denmark, too:
https://www.thomann.de/de/the_box_15lb1008wersatzspeaker_15.htm
Even the cheaper version is good enough for a crossover-point beetween 1k and 1.5k:
https://www.thomann.de/de/the_box_15lb075_uw4ersatzspeaker_15.htm
I'd go for two 15" woofers and a big mid/high horn.
An amp like TAS5630 in pbtl-mode is enough to power this.
You can build a simple two-channel crossover around 1.5kHz for this.
It will propably sound much better than those piezos.
Ten 18650 lifepo4 batteries are good to power an TAS5630.
If you want to spend a little more for better quality, buy a mini-dsp and a two channel amp.
That allows you to omit the crossover and match the signal better for your speaker.
Look at this, it should be available in Denmark, too:
https://www.thomann.de/de/the_box_15lb1008wersatzspeaker_15.htm
Even the cheaper version is good enough for a crossover-point beetween 1k and 1.5k:
https://www.thomann.de/de/the_box_15lb075_uw4ersatzspeaker_15.htm
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2x 15" is just 2280cm², while 8x10" is 4000cm² so what is the point of going for just half the moving surface?
Those 8R drivers are still 4R when paired correctly and will provide a bit more efficiency than the shown 15" drivers.
As you know, i use the Thomann 4R 15" from the link you provided and "only" putting out some 125dB at 90Hz on my soundbike. 😀 More ompf is always better, so i may need another one to get additional 5-6dB.
Weight is a valid point, 8x3.5Kg vs. 2x 7Kg.
As you know, i use the Thomann 4R 15" from the link you provided and "only" putting out some 125dB at 90Hz on my soundbike. 😀 More ompf is always better, so i may need another one to get additional 5-6dB.
Weight is a valid point, 8x3.5Kg vs. 2x 7Kg.
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What about 4x12"?
That's my preference. 2 x 12" beats 1 x 15, has nearly as much sd as an 18".
But doctormord, 2 x 15" is more like 1700 sq cm? 2 x ~850? An 18" is 1100-1200 sq cm. 12" 520-560 sq cm?
Am I missing something?
That's my preference. 2 x 12" beats 1 x 15, has nearly as much sd as an 18".
But doctormord, 2 x 15" is more like 1700 sq cm? 2 x ~850? An 18" is 1100-1200 sq cm. 12" 520-560 sq cm?
Am I missing something?
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