Hello, I wonder if some of you have a schematic for a portable BASS amp (working with a battery) with enough power to go gig with an acoustic guitar. I want a SS type not a tube style...
Thanks
Thanks
How about getting a little bass practice amp, and sticking a couple of 12V lead-acid gel batteries in it?.
My daughter has a Kustom 10W practice amp, and I'm considering doing it to that, 24V is about right for a 10-16W practice amp.
My daughter has a Kustom 10W practice amp, and I'm considering doing it to that, 24V is about right for a 10-16W practice amp.
Nigel I though about doing this with my curent porta amp project but decided to just gut everything and go junkyard parts on the project. The amps original guts will suck the battery dry far quicker than I'd like and could ultimately serve other projects better....I once used a 15 watt Crate in a custom cab with 2 8 inch poly woofers and an acoustic tweeter ratted all the way to 60 KHZ.
Was one of my best sounding amps to date oddly enough...
Anyway my idea for portable is something I could get real performance and volume out of while playing most the day for a week straight without needing a recharge. I'm inclined to believe powering the stock circuits of a commercial amp with a couple lead batteries would give you maybe a day or two's playing before needing recharged.
Just my take on the idea.
Was one of my best sounding amps to date oddly enough...
Anyway my idea for portable is something I could get real performance and volume out of while playing most the day for a week straight without needing a recharge. I'm inclined to believe powering the stock circuits of a commercial amp with a couple lead batteries would give you maybe a day or two's playing before needing recharged.
Just my take on the idea.
Try doing the math?, you want 'performance and volume' plus portability, how much 'volume' do you want?, bearing in mind larger speakers generally make more noise, but aren't very portable.
A common little practice amp will be class AB, so will be fairly efficient, I seriously doubt you're going to build an amp of similar power that will have more than a a few 10%'s extra battery life.
A friend of mine has a Fender portable guitar amp, it accepts standard batteries, but runs off a higher voltage (and thus more power) when plugged in the mains - it uses a TDAxxxx chip (can't remember the number, a five pin thing), I replaced it for him the other year.
I haven't tried Melissa's amp yet, she's had a semi-acoustic bass which she hopes is loud enough to busk with? - personally I don't think it will be? - I've suggested she uses a pick and plays chords 😎 but she just gave me a dirty look!.
A common little practice amp will be class AB, so will be fairly efficient, I seriously doubt you're going to build an amp of similar power that will have more than a a few 10%'s extra battery life.
A friend of mine has a Fender portable guitar amp, it accepts standard batteries, but runs off a higher voltage (and thus more power) when plugged in the mains - it uses a TDAxxxx chip (can't remember the number, a five pin thing), I replaced it for him the other year.
I haven't tried Melissa's amp yet, she's had a semi-acoustic bass which she hopes is loud enough to busk with? - personally I don't think it will be? - I've suggested she uses a pick and plays chords 😎 but she just gave me a dirty look!.
In my case I'll be using a 15 watt phono type amp with a pretty miniscule part count...I forget the power draw ratings but they are next to nothing. I think I'm going for long term travel, simplicity and longevity as apposed to portability around the city/town. When I think of a portable amp, I remember the move Crossroads and how Ralph Machio had the pignose but was homeless. No way he's going to get sufficient, electrified daily playing time when he has no where to charge it
The engine in my design is like a juiced up 4 cylinder I would say. I don't have the specs on it but it's likely a simple push pull amp with a simple dual op amp based preamp which consists of a clean gain, volume and tone control...minimal power draw. When comparing it to the higher end preamp and AB class power amp it came with, I'm betting it will draw easily half as much power. Running a 6.5 inch speaker along with a high output piezo tweeeter will give a lot of volume. The heat sink on this think is about half the size of a the top of a pop can.
I'm hoping to wire in an old death metal pedal I'll mod a bit to serve as the dirty channel. This pedal yields not only a lot of volume gain but frequency gain with it's EQ system.
I'm going on feel here but I'm betting with a 12 volt 5 AH battery, I'll got a lot more than a 10% extended battery life. The amp I'm using can be powered by a 9 volt battery and still hurt your ears. Obviously I'm getting more volume than speaker pushing wattage. Battery life though.. I'm thinking more along the lines of 200%
The engine in my design is like a juiced up 4 cylinder I would say. I don't have the specs on it but it's likely a simple push pull amp with a simple dual op amp based preamp which consists of a clean gain, volume and tone control...minimal power draw. When comparing it to the higher end preamp and AB class power amp it came with, I'm betting it will draw easily half as much power. Running a 6.5 inch speaker along with a high output piezo tweeeter will give a lot of volume. The heat sink on this think is about half the size of a the top of a pop can.
I'm hoping to wire in an old death metal pedal I'll mod a bit to serve as the dirty channel. This pedal yields not only a lot of volume gain but frequency gain with it's EQ system.
I'm going on feel here but I'm betting with a 12 volt 5 AH battery, I'll got a lot more than a 10% extended battery life. The amp I'm using can be powered by a 9 volt battery and still hurt your ears. Obviously I'm getting more volume than speaker pushing wattage. Battery life though.. I'm thinking more along the lines of 200%
just for the information, my Peavey transtube rage-150 ( nice amp ) has a 27 volt transformer. It uses a TDA2040, which is what is used in the fender champ. It would do fine on two 12 volt 5 ah sealed gel batteries...wow that setup should last you hours and hours before a recharge is nessisary, because it only consumes 30 watts. That means your'e only using 1.5 or so amps for the amp, which means it should last you 30 hours or so, maybe longer. 🙂
your amp's consumption should be about the same, maybe less because you don't have preamps and stuff. Remember, amperage times voltage = wattage. So you will be drawing 15 watts at full load ( volume cranked up all the way and distorting like heck 😛 )
your amp's consumption should be about the same, maybe less because you don't have preamps and stuff. Remember, amperage times voltage = wattage. So you will be drawing 15 watts at full load ( volume cranked up all the way and distorting like heck 😛 )
Yeah but I can double the volume and decrease the distortion by installing a good poly cone woofer and piezo tweeter 😀
I kinda doubt it's a true 15 watts anyway. I'm betting more like 5 watts with a peak volume due to the onboard gain that hits the 15 watts. Sure it'll distort but there are ways to minimize this like replacing the inferior paper guitar speakers everyone still swears by...personaly I think paper speakers in comparison to a nicely matched full range cabinet loaded with modern speakers sound like poop.
I kinda doubt it's a true 15 watts anyway. I'm betting more like 5 watts with a peak volume due to the onboard gain that hits the 15 watts. Sure it'll distort but there are ways to minimize this like replacing the inferior paper guitar speakers everyone still swears by...personaly I think paper speakers in comparison to a nicely matched full range cabinet loaded with modern speakers sound like poop.
There are a bunch of battery operated amplifiers on the market.
Try googling "guitar amplifier battery" and get a bunch of responses.
There is the Freedom AMp from Electroharmonix (New Sensor)
Peavey makes the Solo
Try googling "guitar amplifier battery" and get a bunch of responses.
There is the Freedom AMp from Electroharmonix (New Sensor)
Peavey makes the Solo
MrGuitardeath said:I'm going on feel here but I'm betting with a 12 volt 5 AH battery, I'll got a lot more than a 10% extended battery life. The amp I'm using can be powered by a 9 volt battery and still hurt your ears. Obviously I'm getting more volume than speaker pushing wattage. Battery life though.. I'm thinking more along the lines of 200%
'Feel' doesn't mean anything, as I said before, do the maths!.
If you're outputing a similar amount of power, then your consumption will be the same, EXCEPT for the relative efficiencies of the amplifiers. A modern class AB amplifier is quite efficient anyway, and any improvements you might make are likely to be miniscule - and may be in the wrong direction, if all you base it on is 'feel' 🙂
BTW, if you're using a 12V supply your maximum power into 4 ohms is only 4W, or 2W into 8 ohms. Using a 24V supply these powers increase to 16W and 8W respectively. The same increase can also be had by using a bridged amplifer system on 12V.
You seem to miss that this is car audio gear, they lie about the specs so the math isn't going to work. They spec that eq/power booster @ 100 watts peak x 2. 50 watts RMS x2.
Obviously you can do the math and see that they are lying right?
In a way though, maybe not.
I read an article written by an audio guru that stated there is no such thing as RMS power in audio because the peaks are constantly present and changing. To me he seems half right and half wrong.
If you're running 50 watts RMS but add 12 dB of gain at 12 different points within the devices frequency response, I'm willing to bet you will achieve peak power of 100 watts.
Currently I am running 12 volts @ 500 ma.
6 watts.
But with the onboard gain maxed out I am willing to bet I am holding a constant peak power between 10-15 watts. Now couple that with the high gain dirty preamp I intend to use and I am willing to bet I can top out at about 15 - 20 watts peak.
Sure the constant peak output will draw a little more power but not enough to make a huge impact on battery life.
So even if I end up drawing 12 vdc @ 1 amp, I'm still betting I'll get a lot more than 7 hours out of the battery per charge. Not only that but with much better quality speakers, the same wattage will deliver twice the volume.
I know the saying goes the math don't lie but designing things to be more efficient yields a result that often contrasts the math.
Obviously you can do the math and see that they are lying right?
In a way though, maybe not.
I read an article written by an audio guru that stated there is no such thing as RMS power in audio because the peaks are constantly present and changing. To me he seems half right and half wrong.
If you're running 50 watts RMS but add 12 dB of gain at 12 different points within the devices frequency response, I'm willing to bet you will achieve peak power of 100 watts.
Currently I am running 12 volts @ 500 ma.
6 watts.
But with the onboard gain maxed out I am willing to bet I am holding a constant peak power between 10-15 watts. Now couple that with the high gain dirty preamp I intend to use and I am willing to bet I can top out at about 15 - 20 watts peak.
Sure the constant peak output will draw a little more power but not enough to make a huge impact on battery life.
So even if I end up drawing 12 vdc @ 1 amp, I'm still betting I'll get a lot more than 7 hours out of the battery per charge. Not only that but with much better quality speakers, the same wattage will deliver twice the volume.
I know the saying goes the math don't lie but designing things to be more efficient yields a result that often contrasts the math.
MrGuitardeath said:
They lie far worse than that!. The link you posted is most probably only 16W RMS per channel, the maximum for a bridged amplifier feeding 4 ohms.
RMS power is the only sensible way to quote power output, otherwise you get all the stupid useless figures like car stereos!. It's become popular to knock RMS, but it's easy to understand, easy to calculate, easy to measure, and provides a true comparison between different units.
50W RMS is 100W peak anyway, you can't increase power by adding gain at specific points, power is limited by the available supply rails - the maths is VERY simple to do, and can't lie or be fooled.
Peak would be 12W, it's a very simple relationship. Bear in mind this is power consumed from the battery, NOT output power, from a 12V supply with 4 ohm speaker you can only get 4W RMS (8W peak).
Speakers in little combo amps are already pretty efficient, you're not going to make much improvement without substantially larger cabinets or drivers.
But you're not going to match the power and volume from an existing combo using much less power - without going to horn loaded speakers or something?.
It doesn't EVER contrast the math, the math is still perfectly valid, greater speaker efficiency is obviously louder, and the maths proves it (obviously including the speaker and cabinet in the calculations).
I've always been taught that to get peak power, you divide the RMS power by .707. As far as I know, the doubling equation is a lie period. I also suspect that the EQ I linked is probably dishing out 20 watts RMS but I've still gotten great performance out of such equipment.
Also, as far as I understand peak power is based on something rather simple, a volume peak. In otherwords, the speaker is at full wattage and volume but the guitarist starts hitting the strings harder and turns the amp up in the CD recording feeding your amp, the peak level rises.
Same goes for decibel gain.
If I'm hitting 100 watt peak at 10 khz but add 10 dB of volume at 10 khz, obviously the peak level is going to reach an even higher level. Now generally you start driving the volume up like this and you will add distortion but there are tricks to getting around this.
My understanding of peak power is it is more of a reference than an actual solid, calculated answer. The explanation I've always heard is that since the peak is not a constant, it is not a reliable measurement to rate gear or calculate circuits on. I've also learned there are ways you can make it a constant or at least more stable though such as using decibel gain as I sited and high performance speakers that result in less audible distortion.
I know how it goes, the math doesn't lie. I still see results that exceed the calculations though. If your RMS wattage rated amp is full blast and delivering 90 dB but then you crank up all frequencies on that EQ, you're definitely going to exceed the 90dB AND increase the musical peaks which would yield a different value for the peak output. Obviously if you push it too far you fry things but I've still witnessed what I am saying work in a stable fashion.
Also, as far as I understand peak power is based on something rather simple, a volume peak. In otherwords, the speaker is at full wattage and volume but the guitarist starts hitting the strings harder and turns the amp up in the CD recording feeding your amp, the peak level rises.
Same goes for decibel gain.
If I'm hitting 100 watt peak at 10 khz but add 10 dB of volume at 10 khz, obviously the peak level is going to reach an even higher level. Now generally you start driving the volume up like this and you will add distortion but there are tricks to getting around this.
My understanding of peak power is it is more of a reference than an actual solid, calculated answer. The explanation I've always heard is that since the peak is not a constant, it is not a reliable measurement to rate gear or calculate circuits on. I've also learned there are ways you can make it a constant or at least more stable though such as using decibel gain as I sited and high performance speakers that result in less audible distortion.
I know how it goes, the math doesn't lie. I still see results that exceed the calculations though. If your RMS wattage rated amp is full blast and delivering 90 dB but then you crank up all frequencies on that EQ, you're definitely going to exceed the 90dB AND increase the musical peaks which would yield a different value for the peak output. Obviously if you push it too far you fry things but I've still witnessed what I am saying work in a stable fashion.
actually with his amp it MIGHT be able to dish out 100 watts short term due to voltage step up, but voltage step up requiers much more amperage. From a 12 volt battery stepped up to +/-20 volts you would need about 4.5 amps to get around 50 watts, 9 amps or more for 100 watts.
Poly cone woofers stink exepct for use in home systems and car audio.
As guitar speakers-- that just sounds sick. You lose some of your audio spectrum when using a solitary poly woofer as opposed to a paper cone with a wizzer cone to extend the high a little more. Also, paper is lighter and does not requier as much power to drive. I have never seen a poly cone woofer anywhere above 90 db efficient, and that may be stretching it a little. If you want bass in a small area, and arent concerned with power usage, go with poly. But for guitar, use paper, it just all depends on the quality and efficiency of the speaker you buy. 😉
TSD88~
Poly cone woofers stink exepct for use in home systems and car audio.
As guitar speakers-- that just sounds sick. You lose some of your audio spectrum when using a solitary poly woofer as opposed to a paper cone with a wizzer cone to extend the high a little more. Also, paper is lighter and does not requier as much power to drive. I have never seen a poly cone woofer anywhere above 90 db efficient, and that may be stretching it a little. If you want bass in a small area, and arent concerned with power usage, go with poly. But for guitar, use paper, it just all depends on the quality and efficiency of the speaker you buy. 😉
TSD88~
I think you guys need to work on thinking outside the box a bit more rather than going by the instructions inside it. How many systems have you pieced together using alternate speaker types?
I'm poor dude, I've done all sorts of experimenting with speakers I bet many of you would never even think of.
If you know how to choose a speaker, it will perform better in some respects and worse in others OOOOR, equally as well but with greater volume dispersion and SPL. If I drive a 500 watt full range PURE polypropylen cone with 20 watts RMS it will outperform your classic 75 watt guitar speaker of the same frequency response. The paper cone will off a bit more vibrance and clarity in the treble range but will be inferior in the mid and bass reproduction. Team the poly with the right piezo and limiter and the paper cone starts to sound pretty darn boring.
I still swear by paper but come on man it's 2005. Guitar technology is just now finally meshing the old with the new because of big mouths like myself sharing too much but they are doing nothing in regards to the speakers. Sure they're designing and building new ones but they are based around speakers built 30-40 years ago.
In guitar/instrument applications
Paper speaker = more forgiving sound reproduction
Poly and piezo = Great detail and dispersion. Too much detail/resolution to be forgiving.
I've got a 10 inch clear poly cone speaker I use for experimenting because of it's broad frequency response and power all while delivering a pretty high level of clarity. It gets much louder under the same wattage as my 10 in. Jensen MOD but not in the upper frequencies. The Jensen will ultimately seem louder due to the top end clarity but the mids and bass will be inferior and half the volume of the poly.
Chose the right alternative material cone and you will achieve a richer and denser tone in the mid and bass without sacrificing the clarity offered by paper.
I love the sound of paper but at times it gets incredibly boring. Anyway, I'm hoping solid wood cone technology gets pushed center stage since it's by far superior to any materials being used including paper. They start releasing instruments speakers based on modern designs but utilizing solid wood cones and I bet a lot of guys start replacing their celestions and jensens...
I'm poor dude, I've done all sorts of experimenting with speakers I bet many of you would never even think of.
If you know how to choose a speaker, it will perform better in some respects and worse in others OOOOR, equally as well but with greater volume dispersion and SPL. If I drive a 500 watt full range PURE polypropylen cone with 20 watts RMS it will outperform your classic 75 watt guitar speaker of the same frequency response. The paper cone will off a bit more vibrance and clarity in the treble range but will be inferior in the mid and bass reproduction. Team the poly with the right piezo and limiter and the paper cone starts to sound pretty darn boring.
I still swear by paper but come on man it's 2005. Guitar technology is just now finally meshing the old with the new because of big mouths like myself sharing too much but they are doing nothing in regards to the speakers. Sure they're designing and building new ones but they are based around speakers built 30-40 years ago.
In guitar/instrument applications
Paper speaker = more forgiving sound reproduction
Poly and piezo = Great detail and dispersion. Too much detail/resolution to be forgiving.
I've got a 10 inch clear poly cone speaker I use for experimenting because of it's broad frequency response and power all while delivering a pretty high level of clarity. It gets much louder under the same wattage as my 10 in. Jensen MOD but not in the upper frequencies. The Jensen will ultimately seem louder due to the top end clarity but the mids and bass will be inferior and half the volume of the poly.
Chose the right alternative material cone and you will achieve a richer and denser tone in the mid and bass without sacrificing the clarity offered by paper.
I love the sound of paper but at times it gets incredibly boring. Anyway, I'm hoping solid wood cone technology gets pushed center stage since it's by far superior to any materials being used including paper. They start releasing instruments speakers based on modern designs but utilizing solid wood cones and I bet a lot of guys start replacing their celestions and jensens...
MrGuitardeath said:
Personally I always multiple by 1.414 (which is the same thing as dividing by 0.707) - however, you are in error in your thinking!. The 0.707/1.414 ratio is for VOLTAGE - not power, work out the voltage from 6W RMS, convert it to peak voltage, and convert back to power - 6W RMS becomes 12W peak.
Just for the record, I'll say it again, you can ONLY get 16W RMS in to a 4 ohm load off a 12V supply, using a bridged amplifier (or 4W with a single ended amplifier). To get more than that you require either an inverter (to generate a higher supply rail, which larger car amplifiers do), or a speaker coupling transformer, to convert the lower impedance to 4 ohms (this has also been done in-car occasionally).
There are no 'tricks', if your amplifer will deliver 100W peak, that's your lot! - you increase the gain by a massive 10dB and you've got HUGE objectionable distortion. The output of the amplifier is governed by the power rails - there's nothing you can do about that.
You can make it appear slightly louder by compressing the signal heavily - making the quiet sounds as loud as the loud ones, but this distroys the dynamic range of the signal - and is probably too objectionable. It also doesn't produce any consumption savings, it just uses high consumption for more of the time.
You can very short term higher peak levels, before the power supply has time to drop - but it's not of any real use, apart from helping to reduce distortion on very occasional short term peaks.
Good luck!.
Nigel no offense but you need to take your nose out of the books and do some unorthadox experimenting.
As far as the peak power is concerned, youve contradicted yourself here man. First peak power was double the RMS wattage according to you but now your stressing the math which tells otherwise.
You'd be surprised how much more volume you can achieve by adding dB gain and voltage gain to the input signal without getting distortion or cranking up the amps volume. You just have to be clever about it.
Now as far as speakers are concerned. Materials and design will determine just what is louder. I guarantee I can get more volume out of a pure poly cone 10 than a classic paper speaker. It just will not be in all frequency ranges....hence the reason a speakers true specs for power handling and output levels vary quite a bit through out their frequency response curve.
....maybe you failed to notice the 10 lb magnet on the back of some speakers??
Well, it tends to make them rather efficient and less likely to distort even at low wattages. There are thousands of speakers to choose from and you're speaking as though you've used them all
I won't deny you know more on the math side of things but let me tell ya, the guys putting the stuff together in custom rigs fundamentally are the ones who not only make it to work but unlock and maximize the hidden potential.
This is like engineer vs electrician. The engineers design everything by the books but on the job site, the electricians get stuck making something work without issues that isn't up to par.
...there's a ratial term for these things I'll refrane from using. Jerry rigged is the less popular alternative.
As far as the peak power is concerned, youve contradicted yourself here man. First peak power was double the RMS wattage according to you but now your stressing the math which tells otherwise.
You'd be surprised how much more volume you can achieve by adding dB gain and voltage gain to the input signal without getting distortion or cranking up the amps volume. You just have to be clever about it.
Now as far as speakers are concerned. Materials and design will determine just what is louder. I guarantee I can get more volume out of a pure poly cone 10 than a classic paper speaker. It just will not be in all frequency ranges....hence the reason a speakers true specs for power handling and output levels vary quite a bit through out their frequency response curve.
....maybe you failed to notice the 10 lb magnet on the back of some speakers??
Well, it tends to make them rather efficient and less likely to distort even at low wattages. There are thousands of speakers to choose from and you're speaking as though you've used them all
I won't deny you know more on the math side of things but let me tell ya, the guys putting the stuff together in custom rigs fundamentally are the ones who not only make it to work but unlock and maximize the hidden potential.
This is like engineer vs electrician. The engineers design everything by the books but on the job site, the electricians get stuck making something work without issues that isn't up to par.
...there's a ratial term for these things I'll refrane from using. Jerry rigged is the less popular alternative.
the reason you want a single woofer in a guitar cab is because there are some high frequencies you do not want to hear in guitar. The high sounds will be very hard to controll and will sound very harsh, especially on stage where you're killing everyones ears.
Don't tell us to get our noses out of the books- unless you can defy the laws of physics.
An amps power output IS limited by the power supply rails. You should build a few hundred amps from SCRATCH to see where I am coming from. Like I said before, car amps use a switchmode power supply to step up say.... 12 volts at 3.5 amps to 42 volts at 1 amp. The wattage is there, but not the voltage swing, which is why you have to up the voltage before you can actually use that wattage.
Just because a speaker has a 10lb magnet does not mean its going to be better. It only means it has mroe dampening, but if it is too large for the speaker you will lose some bass responce. That does not matter much in guitar though, as you don't want as much bass. You let your mains cabs take care of that, and a bass player, ( which incidentally is not there just to provide bass, but to provide rhythem...unliike some ideas I have heard from some band members who seem to like rap too much 🙄 )
when you add db gain, all you are doing is emphisizing that part of the frequency spectrum and amplifying it, then sending it to the amp, which in turn has to produce more power to make it louder (duh.) This being said, the amplifier has to have a power supply capable of delivering that power.
And actually, engineers do try and unlock the maximum potential when designing equipment.
What you are saying is this:
1🙂 us engineers don't know anything.
2🙂 you know everything)
3🙂 You know more than the engineers on the market, and you have revolutionized the industry by making a speaker be far more efficient that it really is (which is physically impossible)
4🙂 You can make an amplifier produce more power off of a small power supply. 9 volts into a car amp? do you realize those things can only deliver 35 ma long term? even if they were able to deliver 4 amps for a short short short time ( in which they would melt) the maximum power they could deliver is 36 watts.
Don't tell us to get our noses out of the books- unless you can defy the laws of physics.
An amps power output IS limited by the power supply rails. You should build a few hundred amps from SCRATCH to see where I am coming from. Like I said before, car amps use a switchmode power supply to step up say.... 12 volts at 3.5 amps to 42 volts at 1 amp. The wattage is there, but not the voltage swing, which is why you have to up the voltage before you can actually use that wattage.
Just because a speaker has a 10lb magnet does not mean its going to be better. It only means it has mroe dampening, but if it is too large for the speaker you will lose some bass responce. That does not matter much in guitar though, as you don't want as much bass. You let your mains cabs take care of that, and a bass player, ( which incidentally is not there just to provide bass, but to provide rhythem...unliike some ideas I have heard from some band members who seem to like rap too much 🙄 )
when you add db gain, all you are doing is emphisizing that part of the frequency spectrum and amplifying it, then sending it to the amp, which in turn has to produce more power to make it louder (duh.) This being said, the amplifier has to have a power supply capable of delivering that power.
And actually, engineers do try and unlock the maximum potential when designing equipment.
What you are saying is this:
1🙂 us engineers don't know anything.
2🙂 you know everything)
3🙂 You know more than the engineers on the market, and you have revolutionized the industry by making a speaker be far more efficient that it really is (which is physically impossible)
4🙂 You can make an amplifier produce more power off of a small power supply. 9 volts into a car amp? do you realize those things can only deliver 35 ma long term? even if they were able to deliver 4 amps for a short short short time ( in which they would melt) the maximum power they could deliver is 36 watts.
what the heck is up with those smilys.... I think I hit : ) (only not spaced) hahaha its kinda funny though... 🙄 sorry.
ThSpeakerDude88 said:
I thought the smilies were a bonus 🙄
Yes, it's easy to accidently add a smily!.
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