IEC 60393 is one standard by which potentiometers are measured to allow comparisons between manufacturers. "The Potentiometer Handbook" published by Bournes in 1975 shows they used essentially the same definitions and test methods 45 years ago.
Another is BS CECC 41100 - Lead Screw Actuated and Rotary Preset Potentiometers: Sectional Specification, first published by BSI on December 29, 1978.
IEC 60393-1:2008(E) is applicable to all types of resistive potentiometers, including lead-screw actuated types, presets, multi-turn units, etc. to be used in electronic equipment. It establishes standard terms, inspection procedures and methods of test for use in sectional and detail specifications of electronic components for quality assessment or any other purpose. It has been mainly written, and the test methods described, to conform to the widely used single-turn rotary potentiometer with an operating shaft.
Another is BS CECC 41100 - Lead Screw Actuated and Rotary Preset Potentiometers: Sectional Specification, first published by BSI on December 29, 1978.
Specification for harmonized system of quality assessment for electronic components. Blank detail specification. Lead-screw actuated and rotary preset potentiometers.
Alps uses one of the tests defined in the IEC standard, namely:
4.15.1 Method A (constant voltage method)
a) A direct voltage of 20 V, with a source resistance of 1 000 Ω, shall be applied to the end terminations a and c of the potentiometer. The moving contact shall be operated through the angle of total mechanical rotation, excluding the switch, in one direction and back, at 2 to 5 complete cycles per minute.
b) After three initial cycles, the noise output between terminals a and b (or between terminals b and c when appropriate) shall not exceed that specified in the detail specification.
The noise output shall be measured on a test set such as is described in Annex C.
a) A direct voltage of 20 V, with a source resistance of 1 000 Ω, shall be applied to the end terminations a and c of the potentiometer. The moving contact shall be operated through the angle of total mechanical rotation, excluding the switch, in one direction and back, at 2 to 5 complete cycles per minute.
b) After three initial cycles, the noise output between terminals a and b (or between terminals b and c when appropriate) shall not exceed that specified in the detail specification.
The noise output shall be measured on a test set such as is described in Annex C.
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No DC, no click on step 2 onwards even if no signal is passed. I get the occasional clicks on the first step but it now seldoms happens.
Will a 100K resistor (pot is 10K) across output and ground help ?
Will a 100K resistor (pot is 10K) across output and ground help ?
How so? Stepped volume controls guarantee
Qguy the biggest dB step level transition is the first step from zero, so the click will be most audible on that first step. If you hear a click with no signal (no music playing) there must be some out of band signal going through the attenuator, maybe something is unstable in the amplifier.
John , you keep on talking about regulation tests yet I have stated that the DEFINITION of slider noise does not mention DC.
You seem to be trying to justify that== noise in your audio potentiometer --yes ?-- then its got DC across it - FYI-- I have replaced 1000,s of volume controls in tube radios/amplifiers which DON'T have DC across them and I see Qguy2000 is pointing out HE has no DC across it .
A Definition of an occurrence is a continual happening of that object over a very long observable time and sliding noise --by Definition can mean worn track of carbon etc /low pressure on the slider arm or even a cheaply made component not continually applied to a "DC condition " that is part of the Definition which it isn't .
You seem to be trying to justify that== noise in your audio potentiometer --yes ?-- then its got DC across it - FYI-- I have replaced 1000,s of volume controls in tube radios/amplifiers which DON'T have DC across them and I see Qguy2000 is pointing out HE has no DC across it .
A Definition of an occurrence is a continual happening of that object over a very long observable time and sliding noise --by Definition can mean worn track of carbon etc /low pressure on the slider arm or even a cheaply made component not continually applied to a "DC condition " that is part of the Definition which it isn't .
No, the laws of physics don't change. If there is a signal (DC or AC, infrasonic, subsonic or in the audio band, doesn't matter) a step in signal level generates a transient that has energy in the audio band. Whether you hear it or not depends on whether it is masked by other signals.Will a 100K resistor (pot is 10K) across output and ground help ?
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Qguy2000 , maybe I missed it but could you post the make/model of your tube amplifier so I can make a few checks or is it a "home build "?
As you are still experiencing this and are not happy about it I don't want to make assumptions even though your amplifier isn't on my workbench.
As you say now "its only from zero to the first position now " --that's a clue.
As you are still experiencing this and are not happy about it I don't want to make assumptions even though your amplifier isn't on my workbench.
As you say now "its only from zero to the first position now " --that's a clue.
Not at all. Please re-read my second post in this topic, 18 posts back: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/372331-popping-stepped-volume-control.html#post6656116You seem to be trying to justify that== noise in your audio potentiometer --yes ?-- then its got DC across it
Qguy2000 , maybe I missed it but could you post the make/model of your tube amplifier so I can make a few checks or is it a "home build "?
As you are still experiencing this and are not happy about it I don't want to make assumptions even though your amplifier isn't on my workbench.
As you say now "its only from zero to the first position now " --that's a clue.
It is an Aikido Tube Pre-amp kit from Glassware Audio. New Aikido 12Vac PCB and part kits
I do not have the design with me right now and I am not sure If I should published it on this site as I do not own the design.
When I replaced the pot with a regular pot, it did not produce any ticks, but the sound quality was affected so re-installed the stepped pot. I only get an intermittent tick from zero to the first step. Pot is 10K, ladder type. The ticks on the first step is tolerable right now, unlike before where I get loud popping sound.
If the schematic is in the Public Domain -IE available online to the public then its not illegal to post it on a website as long as acknowledgment as to the designer /owner of the design has already been granted .
If its available online previous use of it has been granted but not for commercial gain unless the designer /owner has allowed this or the design is old and no longer protected from copying.
Websites like Hi-Fi engine etc are full of schematics and they aren't in any legal problem as regards this.
Its a different matter if you sell an amplifier made to anothers design and imply its your own design.
If its available online previous use of it has been granted but not for commercial gain unless the designer /owner has allowed this or the design is old and no longer protected from copying.
Websites like Hi-Fi engine etc are full of schematics and they aren't in any legal problem as regards this.
Its a different matter if you sell an amplifier made to anothers design and imply its your own design.
Equalize potentials at the controller input and output. Input via blocking capacitor with low leakage current Load resistor to ground. The same from the side of the exit.
Shunt the input-output of the regulator with a resistor.
Shunt the input-output of the regulator with a resistor.
Doesn't look like a complicated circuit just from the photo .
I see what you mean by them not publishing the schematic which gives you the choice of returning it to repair it or tracing out the circuit as many have done here .
The site is run by Yahoo now owned by Verizon , I read the small print allows them to legally be sent advertising from whatever the medium including your phone if you use their services .
As OldDIY says you could fit a quality film capacitor but that depends on your view of capacitors in series with the signal ?
I will try and find somebody who bought one and has posted on it online.
I see what you mean by them not publishing the schematic which gives you the choice of returning it to repair it or tracing out the circuit as many have done here .
The site is run by Yahoo now owned by Verizon , I read the small print allows them to legally be sent advertising from whatever the medium including your phone if you use their services .
As OldDIY says you could fit a quality film capacitor but that depends on your view of capacitors in series with the signal ?
I will try and find somebody who bought one and has posted on it online.
Well Tubecad have not hidden their full explanation of their compact power supply and actually instead of a wallwart they have an upgrade to a small transformer as well as advising fitting a mains filter/suppressor socket which they supply .
Just looking at the "power supply " its down to "saving money " ( isn't it always ) not something I would use but its cheap and from reading it all it looks like your first click from zero a stored charge is dissipated through the first resistor in the chain.
Whether that charge contains a small amount of HF I do not know without using an oscilloscope but Tubecad do go on a bit about upgrading the power supply with an outboard box + toriod which to me is a genuine upgrade from diode doubling and trebling to get the higher voltage .
Just looking at the "power supply " its down to "saving money " ( isn't it always ) not something I would use but its cheap and from reading it all it looks like your first click from zero a stored charge is dissipated through the first resistor in the chain.
Whether that charge contains a small amount of HF I do not know without using an oscilloscope but Tubecad do go on a bit about upgrading the power supply with an outboard box + toriod which to me is a genuine upgrade from diode doubling and trebling to get the higher voltage .
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